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Discussion Starter · #901 ·
Fishing the Silvers back in the mid nineties on Kodiak Island.

The Pasagshack River can be seen behind me. I could wade across the River, it was less than knee deep in some spots.

The Lake that feeds this river is a short walk from the mouth of the river, so it’s a short river.
 

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Discussion Starter · #903 ·
I never encountered any Kodiak Bears the entire time I was on the island. I did see them often when out flying. Many friends saw them in the same areas I didn’t see them, so I guess I was lucky, or unlucky, depending on how you look at it. I always kept an eye out, and made plenty of noise when I was outdoors, where bears might be.

I worked part time for an Air Taxi, part 135 outfit on the Island, maintaining DHC-2 Beavers, Cessna 207’s and a Piper Saratoga. Between Bear sight seeing flights on floats in the summer, and Bear hunting flights on wheels in the winter (beach landings & takeoffs), the Kodiak Bear is a substantial part of the economy of Kodiak Island.

I will say this, when an airplane came back after a successful Bear harvest, that airplane stunk. There was a very distinct, almost sweet oder that would permeate the aircraft. It would make the whole hanger stink, but I guess that’s part of the Kodiak experience.

I finally got around to troubleshooting the trolling motor on my boat. After failed attempts at charging the batteries, one tested bad, and the other was weak when tested. They are over three years old, so I replace both. After mounting the new batteries and cleaning up the wiring connections, my TM still didn’t work.

I moved forward to the 40 amp circuit breaker and tested it. It is actually two inline 24V 40 amp CB’s. One failed when tested for continuity, so I replaced them both. The only place that had them in stock was in Norfolk, so I hopped in my CJ-7 and raced the clock, to get there before they closed at noon on Saturday. The new CB’s were slightly different then the old ones, so I got to use my new fab table and vice to cut the plastic housings.

The new CB’s fixed my TM. Now I have new batteries and CB’s in the boat and the trolling motor works again. I don’t use the TM often, but I feel like having fully charged batteries and working TM, is kinda a safety net should I have problems with the big motor. I feel like I can always get home, or get to shore with the TM.

I want to take the boat out for some stripper fishing today, the forecast is pretty good, with a light wind of up to 7 out of the SE. Plus I want to do a WOT run, and log the MPH and RPM, so I can provide that information to have my prop worked. I’m pretty happy with the prop and it’s performance, but it’s been dinged in the past, so I want to have the prop worked. A good prop guy is gonna ask what the RPM’s are and MPH, at WOT. It will help in fine tuning for peak performance.

I have a 6” Jack plate from the old Astro boat I bought from my neighbor Don several years ago. The word on the internet is a Ranger R-91 will pick up a couple MPH with a 6” Jack plate after the correct propeller depth is found. I guess that the hot rodder in me…I always want to go faster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #905 ·
:crying2:I did it again! After bulbing during the Spring race, putting myself out in the first round of eliminations at the Diesel Wars race, I went out in the first round again yesterday, the Fall event. Northeast Dragway runs this race twice a year. I like to enter the race with my CJ-7, they allow gas trucks in the ET class, and competing with a slower vehicle is fun, especially when you win.

I didn’t red light, but I had a crappy .194 RT to my man’s .023 RT. He handed my *** to me at the tree. I hang my head in shame. I did visit his pit after loading up to leave, and congratulated him on his good driving. He mentioning when he realized he had to race “The Jeep”…he knew he had to bring it. He thought I had won several events, I said, no, I won this race once, but I’ve sucked at driving ever since. We both laughed and said “See you in the Spring”.

My Jeep ran good, it still spins the passenger tire on launch if I floor it off the line. It actually moves out of the beams quickly if you don’t spin the tire(s), but that takes a different approach. If I hit the gas about half throttle and then ease into full throttle, it will move out of the beams quicker, it will 60’ quicker, and ET’s quicker.

The open 273 geared AMC 20 rear makes it difficult to launch consistently. My jacked up right foot doesn’t help. I can’t push the gas pedal like I could before my foot was fused, it’s more like a fixed club on the end of my leg, no more articulation.

My best pass was a 10.15 @ 66.5 MPH.

I had run a 10.27, and a 10.22 on my 2nd and 3rd time run, so I put a 10.20 on it in the first round, when I lost on a break out run, however; my slow RT was the root cause. Had I been .050 on the tree like my previous time run, I would have had room to back into him at the stripe, because he ran a 6.78 on a 6.68. His .023 + .104 over left a .127 window, which is huge in a bracket race, but my .194 RT negated it from the start.

I’ll post my time slips. I made two time runs in the left lane. The white was the first one, which I was the winner. Winners get the white slip, losers get the yellow slip. I made one time run in the right lane, and my first round loser was in the right lane. The yellow slips are easier to read.

The best part is I was able to drive my Jeep onto the trailer, that’s always a win when drag racing.

I removed the used YJ Sahara seats and the beat up hard top, before the race. I’ll drive it topless as long as the weather cooperates. The hardtop and steel doors will be going on for the winter soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #906 ·
There was a Deuce and a Half in attendance. I was talking to the owner, he said it has a Cummins inline six & Allison transmission and will do 65MPH on the highway. He made the custom grill mount on the front specifically for this event. Spectators back their trucks in on the Tower side, adjacent to the return road, and “ Tailgate”, it’s kinda crazy, the race vehicles have to contend with overcrowding on the return road…not really a safe environment, but that’s the way things roll at this race.
 

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Discussion Starter · #907 ·
A picture in the staging lanes. Another from the burnout box end, the tower can be seen on the right side in this picture. The return road runs down the right side, in front of the tailgaters and when you get to the tower, the racer receives the time slip for the pass.
 

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I believe the truck is a 5 Ton. That's Ok I don't know anything about Coast Guard ships or is it boats?

How did your ETs with the hot rod 4.7 compare to those you turned with the 258?
 

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Discussion Starter · #909 ·
Lol…i have a lot of sea time for an Airedale. I always call them boats. They have a pointy end that is in front, and they never stop moving, kinda like a perpetual motion machine.

I've sailed around the world and back (twice) on one of those boats that's shaped more like a football.

I've sailed the Bearing Sea several times on one of those boats with a pointy end, in weather only a fisherman would sail in. I've seen blue water breaking over the bow (pointy end).

The old engine ran mid 12's @ mid 50's if I remember correctly…it was the slowest vehicle on the property.

When I install my 8.8 rearend with 373's and a tight LSD, I'm willing to bet it runs 8's (half track).

Watch the YouTube video imbedded in the article link below if you want a taste of what Coast Guard Sailors & Aviators do for a living in the Bearing sea.

https://www.throttlextreme.com/coast-guard-helicopter-pilot-makes-crazy-landing-ship-rough-seas/

 

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Mid 50s to mid 60s means you must have done something right. Lower gears will make it scream, but you are going to have to find some better rubber so it doesn't break loose leaving the line.

I've had an idea to get a postal Jeep frame and put a FG body on it and install SBC/304/360. A 4.7 might make it even more a sleeper. I'm waiting for my ship to come in before I start this project. Because of the backlog at the ports it hasn't sailed yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #912 ·
Thanks Jeff!

I don’t want to brag about goin out in the first round, but that’s what happened. I feel like if I’m going to brag when I win, then I better brag when I lose.

My man put an .023 RT on me with a turbocharged diesel truck..,that takes skill, and a little luck. He deserved the win, thats why I went to his pit to congratulate him in person.

I’ll work on getting that 8.8 with 373’s and a tight LSD under the Jeep. I don’t think it will spin with a tight LSD in the back. That way I’ll be able to floor it as fast as I can, and concentrate on hitting the tree. Trying to launch at 1/2 throttle is hard to do, and it’s hard to do it consistently.

Bob,

It’s kinda funny I never really thought about what a deuce and a half is, I guess it’s the weight rating?

I figured it has two axles in the back…must me a deuce and a half…lol

Ohh yeah, it was green.
 

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The "deuce and half" usually had bar lug tires and both rear axles had dual tires. Power was from a Continental I6 multifuel engine. Transmission had a weird shift pattern in that the positions of 4th and 5th gears were reversed. You could burn any type of fuel in it but you needed to add a quart of oil for gas. I was told but never verified that you could burn 6.0 beer in it but it would not run on 3.2. That is probably BS because no self respecting soldier would waste beer. Top speed was 45 MPH downhill and with a tail wind.

The 5 ton as pictured had single wheels all the way around and was powered by a I6 Cummins and had an automatic transmission. Supposedly diesel only but I have seen folks used helicopter fuel but it would clean all the junk loose in the fuel system and clog up the fuel filters. It was/is easier to drive than the 2 1/2 ton. It also could cruise at higher speeds. The road tractors were called 5 tons but were different animals.

I never saw anyone load either to their load limit except tor the 2 1/2 tankers which we used to refuel in the field.

There is a member of our Jeep club whose son has a surplus Deuce and a half with a AMC Jeep manufacturing sticker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #915 ·
Nick is home from college for the weekend. I took advantage of having him around to help me finish the yard work I started. I have a hard time walking in the grass with my crooked foot. The simple jobs that require walking are very difficult for me to do now.

We put the hardtop back on my CJ-7. This early hardtop that I have is heavy compared to the later hardtops with the seams. My wife offered to help me put the hardtop on last week when I mentioned it, but I told her it was too heavy for her, and it is. It is heavy and cumbersome to lift it in place. The next time I take it off, I will lift it off with a winch mounted overhead.

I drove my CJ-7 with the top & doors installed. When I first got up to speed, with the radio playing a song, I heard something in the background that didn’t sound good. After I turned the music down, I realized speedometer was screaming. I put my hand on the glass face of the speedometer and I could feel the vibrations. I am guessing it’s been doing this all summer long, but I couldn’t hear it because the top was off.

I am debating whether or not, to do something with my speedometer. I would hate for it to get hot and catch fire 🔥. I wonder if I should disconnect the cable on the back of it, and lube it? Or I guess I could just disconnect it, and be done with it. The odometer seems to be working accurately, so I don’t really want to disconnect it.

I went to the local car wash and pressure washed my little Tank. When I was finished and it was time to leave, there was a guy in a JKU vacuuming his rig. Me, being the ******* that I am…lol I stopped next to him, and then nailed the gas. With the wet tires, my little Tank turned into a little Hotrod and easily spun the 31’s and barked out the “*******” report.

One of these days there’s gonna be a Sherrif in the area, and I’m gonna pay for being an *******…lol
 

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Axe if you disconnect the speedometer cable from the you run a slight risk of it going crazy and taking out some wiring. Don't ask how I discovered this, but Murphy is alive and well behind the dash of our CJ. You can buy rattle can spray liquid graphite. When you use it the liquid quickly evaporates leaving just the graphite. Pull the cable out and run your fingers along the length. If it feels greasy clean everything with brake cleaner or any kind of quick evaporating cleaner. When the weather turns cooler often the lube gets stiffer and makes noise. If that doesn't work make the ZZ Top louder.

One of the projects I have on the warmer winter days to do list is to fix my speedometer. I'm also looking for a hard top.
 

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Discussion Starter · #917 ·
My speedometer is still spinning and it’s starting to screech or howl as a result of the friction as it spins. It’s getting pretty annoying. I’m going to bring my CJ-7 if for an oil change, chassis lube and inspection, rotate the tires. I also want to make a template for the center cap holes, for drilling undrilled wheels, for OEM center caps. I’ll look into the speedometer issue when I have the Jeep down for maintenance. The upper hinge on my spare tire rack is rattling when I drive it, and it is very annoying, so that issue needs to be addressed as well. I am hoping to make a thicker plastic washer to stop the rattle.

I started taking my Ford Explorer 8.8 rear end apart, so I can cut down the short side and end up with a rear axle with 57” WMS width, with a LSD. The plan is to rebuild the differential and shim it tight so it provides torque to both wheels when I take it to the drag strip for the Diesel Truck Wars event at the local drag strip, in May. Normally they run it in March, but they bumped it back on the schedule this year. My new engine spins the right rear tire with my open AMC-20 rear differential, so I have to launch at about half throttle, and that makes it hard to hit the tree consistently. Bracket racing is all about consistency, and I need to redeem myself after my recent failures at winning this race.

The gear lube looked pretty good when I drained it, so that is a good sign. Now my shop smells like gear lube, and I didn’t spill any. I guess there could be worse odors.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Asphalt Bicycle part
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Plant Gas Automotive wheel system
Product Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas
 

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Discussion Starter · #919 ·
Glove Road surface Asphalt Automotive tire Gas

Yeah, sometimes it easier to make a drain pan than to find one not in use…lol

Anyway, I started cutting the unneeded brackets & mounts off of the 8.8 housing. This is my first time using a plasma cutter. It’s a handy tool no doubt, and after a little practice I should be able to make some smoother cuts.
 
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