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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Hey, I got that same bumper. I'm modifying it to fit with my plow frame.

easy to put the wires in at the front but where are you planning on coming out of the frame.
And with that gauge wire, I'd make sure it would never rub and wear out the insulation.
Funny you should ask that; my insomnia was in full force last night, so ...

First, I wrapped the power/ground wires together with 1" cloth loom tape. Then, I ran the wires through an open space under the grill on the pax side, then up the inside of the grill through a rubberized hold-down screwed into the grill using one of the existing holes for the breather inlet. I made sure to keep them away from the A/C compressor. Then wrapped them around the grill support, using a few zip ties to keep them in place.

Tire Vehicle Wheel Automotive tire Car


It's hard to tell in the photo, but there's about 1/8" of space between the wires and the winch cradle. I'm hoping there won't be a problem with wearing through tape/insulation. Guess that's going to be part of the pre-flight checklist. :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
I think I just ran mine through one of the vertical grille 'slat' holes, then up and out where the headlight circuit comes out. Just a thought: Since that grille rocks side-to-side on a center pivot, there's a possibility of that path under the grille becoming a problem eventually.
I checked the rocking, with the fenders bolted in, it barely moved, though with the clamshell opened out, it's how I got the wires under there. Still, as I said, it's probably going to become part of the pre-flight.

Here you can see how I routed things completely under the grill, no pinching.

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive mirror


Here's a shot of the back side.

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle door


If there's any torsional movement, it might rub a tiny bit, but it shouldn't pinch. I don't *think* it will present any problems, BUT ... pre-flight checklist. If it does have issues, I'll re-route. :grin2:

And yes, that is a stack of washers acting as a spacer ... found out the bar was bent when I took it all apart. Once I straightened it out, well, you see what I had to do. :p

Now, for shiggles, I went back and took a second look at the radiator to make sure of my original assessment. Once I cleaned up all the corrosion, it looked like the radiator had been repaired before. I don't ever remember Mister 4x4 mentioning repairs, so it had to be done under the previous owner's watch. It looks like the previous repair gave out. If I tried brazing it, that would be like layering repairs, something my grandpa cautioned me never to do when it comes to radiators. He said "It won't fix the original problem, and in the end, you'll end up with nothing but a mess of problems." Since he was a master aircraft mechanic, I tend to put my trust in his words of wisdom.

The crack is a little over an inch long. If it had been factory work that cut loose, I'd grab some silver solder and have a go. But, under inspection with a Mk I Eyeball, that looks like the trailing edge of a previous repair that just gave up the ghost.

Automotive tire Bumper Gas Wood Automotive exterior
 

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Is it worth salvage to have the tank on that side replaced?
Just a thought to have a mostly original radiator, for back up, or resale.
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
Is it worth salvage to have the tank on that side replaced?
Just a thought to have a mostly original radiator, for back up, or resale.
It's actually the "bottom" tank, it was just sitting on its side for pics.

I considered that route for a minute, but decided for now to shelve it. These days, that work may well cost as much as my new radiator did! I'll eventually get around to calling some shops, but I was not going to rely on a shop having decent prices, and being able to do the work quickly.

New radiator will be here tomorrow. We'll see how well it works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
I think that repair was done by Don back in the early 2000s, TBH. I have no idea why the outlet is smushed like that, though.
Well, if Don did it back then, and it's held for nearly 20 years, I'd call that a win.

All the proper radiators for this beast have an up-turned outlet, but yeah, not sure why this one is partially flattened out. Maybe the only way Don could get the right angle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Got the new radiator in; went through hoops getting the air out of the system, but finally suceeded.

Took him out for a quick spin ... and ran into problems with the pax side rear axle. Turns out, when you put in lunchbox lockers, you lose a "thrust button." Still trying to figure that one out. At any rate, that created too much end play. Which then caused a leak (which I dind't know about until going down the road). I have ordered a new bearing/seal kit. Should be here Friday.

I also found out the return line on the steering box was loose. Again, didn't find that out until I started driving. So, got my hands on an 18 mm wrench and sorted that problem.

I'm thinking I might need to remove any shims to tighten the axle back up. End play is now excessive on the pax side.

I also got some rock sliders with "steps" in. Those will be going on soon, too.
 

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Nice to hear Klooge is rolling again :)

Darn Covid isolation here, but will get stuff done I have time for now, and be able to see soon how nice you have everything put back in under the hood.
 
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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
Nice to hear Klooge is rolling again :)

Darn Covid isolation here, but will get stuff done I have time for now, and be able to see soon how nice you have everything put back in under the hood.
Sorry to hear about the COVID issues. Keeping fingers crossed you n the missus dodge that bullet!

Klooge is sorta rolling. He's not going anywhere until I get this axle issue sorted, that's for sure! I didn't even think to check end play, and I don't remember it in the instructions (just checked, no mention).

Lesson learned, though.
 

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Engine was my biggest concern, with all the hand machine work you did on it, glad it is running again :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
Engine was my biggest concern, with all the hand machine work you did on it, glad it is running again :)
Well, it's running. The valve train is a bit clicky, but the engine seems to be doing okay.

My short jaunt (not even 2 miles round trip) showed me a couple of things.

First, the PS return line fitting at the gear box was loose. I pretty much emptied the reservoir.

It is no longer loose.

When I did the install of my lunchbox locker, I followed the directions. Those directions mentioned NOTHING about an axle spacer for the two-piece axles. It fits over the cross pin in the carrier, and keeps the axles where they need to be. Since it was not mentioned AT ALL in the directions, it went away with the spider gears. So, I now have roached axle bearings. I ordered a 1 piece kit; will prolly be here week after next. I also ordered a 12 ton floor press to deal with bearings and such. Finding a place to put it ... there's a challenge. I might be able to squeeze it in beside the miter saw.

At least the radiator seems to be working. ./knockonwood
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
Old axles pulled, surgery done on bearings, and backing plates salvaged. Those things are another breed of unicorn. EXPENSIVE unicorn.

Well, I think what I took for pissed off bearings was actually the interaction between drum and backing plate on the driver's side. Plenty of metal dust in the drum.

New axles might actually get here in the coming week. Would be nice!
 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
The pax rear corner is on a jack stand, but here is a shot showing both the new winch and the new rock sliders.

I don't plan on doing any "hard core" trails, but even on "mild" obstacles, you can end up with body damage. I spent too much time and effort on getting my boy to this point to see my work undone by sliding onto a boulder on a slippery/slimy obstacle.
 

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They look awesome!

I'm still a bigger fan of nerf bars, since they're fastened to the frame (typically bolted, but mine are welded) and hang down low enough to deflect before hitting the bottom edge of the tub. I think I remember you telling me they do more than just bolt to the outside of the tub as they appear, which makes better sense. Otherwise, a good smack to the rock slider has the sheet metal taking damage by transference.

Still say it looks cool! Nice!
 

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We will try to keep him off those extreme trails :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
They look awesome!

I'm still a bigger fan of nerf bars, since they're fastened to the frame (typically bolted, but mine are welded) and hang down low enough to deflect before hitting the bottom edge of the tub. I think I remember you telling me they do more than just bolt to the outside of the tub as they appear, which makes better sense. Otherwise, a good smack to the rock slider has the sheet metal taking damage by transference.

Still say it looks cool! Nice!
Yep, these are secured underneath, bolted between the body mount and the body. A good smack could mangle anything. These are more for, as the name says, sliding over rocks. They should do well enough for minor impacts, though.

We will try to keep him off those extreme trails
Around here, a good monsoon storm will turn a lvl 5 trail into a lvl 9 in a couple of hours!
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
I got a 12 ton press, and attempted to separate the hubs from the axle shafts.

Nope. Not happening.

After 41 years, they are content to stay where they are.
 
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