I like the dollies under the wheels. Where did you find them? Do they move pretty easily?
1980 CJ 7 Resurrection (Klooge)
This is sorta taking over where Mister 4x4 left off; you can find that thread here. The might be a bit of overlap.
For those of you just joining in on the fun, this is Klooge, a 1980 CJ 7 I am in the process of resurrecting. Mister 4x4 rescued him from an ignominious fate on a farm near Austin, TX. Klooge has been through a "heart transplant," as well as a locale change (he's in Arizona, now!).
The trip to get him home was an adventure. High winds (both right in the grill and from the side), which induced a few "clench" moments while side-by-side with other traffic on the highway, were a constant from San Angelo to Texas Canyon on I-10. Ran into a bit of rain in NM. Then, 50 miles outside Tucson, it started bucketing down. Then that turned to sleet, then snow, the back the other way, and was rainy all the way home. Still, made it one piece! Got in late, so I just snapped a pic of the garage before I put Klooge in.
![Automotive lighting Automotive tire Automotive design Motor vehicle Asphalt]()
Getting Klooge situated. He'd decided to quite running, so I had to use a flat-tow bar to get him in the garage. Once in, I used wheel skates to get him more or less where I wanted him.
![Automotive parking light Tire Wheel Vehicle Motor vehicle]()
![Automotive parking light Car Tire Vehicle Motor vehicle]()
Now, he's been getting stripped of parts, slowly but surely, and getting prepped for some engine work. I'll be pulling the head this coming weekend.
![Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Motor vehicle]()
![Wheel Car Vehicle Tire Automotive tire]()
I'm really enjoying myself with this project! Heck, there have been nights I got a thought, and went out to check something at 12:30 in the morning! Big plans in the works for this beauty. I'll post semi-regular updates for those interested.
For those of you just joining in on the fun, this is Klooge, a 1980 CJ 7 I am in the process of resurrecting. Mister 4x4 rescued him from an ignominious fate on a farm near Austin, TX. Klooge has been through a "heart transplant," as well as a locale change (he's in Arizona, now!).
The trip to get him home was an adventure. High winds (both right in the grill and from the side), which induced a few "clench" moments while side-by-side with other traffic on the highway, were a constant from San Angelo to Texas Canyon on I-10. Ran into a bit of rain in NM. Then, 50 miles outside Tucson, it started bucketing down. Then that turned to sleet, then snow, the back the other way, and was rainy all the way home. Still, made it one piece! Got in late, so I just snapped a pic of the garage before I put Klooge in.
Getting Klooge situated. He'd decided to quite running, so I had to use a flat-tow bar to get him in the garage. Once in, I used wheel skates to get him more or less where I wanted him.
Now, he's been getting stripped of parts, slowly but surely, and getting prepped for some engine work. I'll be pulling the head this coming weekend.
I'm really enjoying myself with this project! Heck, there have been nights I got a thought, and went out to check something at 12:30 in the morning! Big plans in the works for this beauty. I'll post semi-regular updates for those interested.
1 - 20 of 403 Posts
Ok, first things first:
The cam is fine; no damage noted during inspection!
Now, on to the rest ...
So, today was a productive day. Got head pulled, the valve train disassembled, lifters removed, cam visually inspected, and valves cleaned up.
Mister 4x4, in whose Jeep this engine previously resided, had pulled the head some time ago. When he did, he pulled it as a unit, because a chunk of the exhaust manifold was breaking off the flange. It looked like it was held in place from the pressure of the bolt. It more or less was. I found out that the chunk was loose, but not loose enough to come out. So, I decided to pull the manifold as an item, and as a TEMPORARY fix, do a repair with extreme temp JB Weld. Well, when I pulled the bolt and removed the broken-off chunk, there was what looked like a "spacer" sleeve left. Well, turned out, it was RTV. The owner before Mister 4x4 had to do that.
![Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle]()
Here's a look at the manifolds, as a unit, separated from the engine.
![Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Gas Auto part Machine]()
Next off was the valve cover. Glad I have a metal one! He's a shot of the inside; looks pretty clean.
![Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle]()
Here's a look at the valve train. A little dirty, but not too bad. You can see the missing pushrods for cylinders 4 and 5, as a result of the collapsed lifters.
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Electricity Rim]()
It's hard to see, but in the next two pics, there's some caked-on gunk on some of the pushrods.
![Bumper Audio equipment Automotive exterior Gas Auto part]()
![Food Rectangle Cake Audio equipment Electric blue]()
My grandpa taught me well! He was one of my heroes growing up. Was an aircraft mechanic in the Navy, starting in WW II, and lasting 20 years. He taught me about the cardboard "jigs" for keeping bolts and stuff straight.
![Audio equipment Wood Font Rectangle Electronic instrument]()
Here's the back half of the block ...
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive engine gasket Rim Gas]()
and the front half.
![Motor vehicle Automotive engine gasket Automotive tire Automotive exterior Gas]()
Here's a look at the combustion chambers. Plenty of cleaning to be done. I hit it already with parts cleaner, and will take a brass brush on a dremel to it tomorrow.
![Gas Font Auto part Metal Machine]()
I had already hit the valves with a wire wheel on my bench grinder, and then went after them with a drill and a red scotchbrite pad (lock stem in drill chuck, turn on drill, use pad to polish). Worked like a charm!! BTW, an input on cleaning the head would be appreciated! Thank you!
The cam is fine; no damage noted during inspection!
Now, on to the rest ...
So, today was a productive day. Got head pulled, the valve train disassembled, lifters removed, cam visually inspected, and valves cleaned up.
Mister 4x4, in whose Jeep this engine previously resided, had pulled the head some time ago. When he did, he pulled it as a unit, because a chunk of the exhaust manifold was breaking off the flange. It looked like it was held in place from the pressure of the bolt. It more or less was. I found out that the chunk was loose, but not loose enough to come out. So, I decided to pull the manifold as an item, and as a TEMPORARY fix, do a repair with extreme temp JB Weld. Well, when I pulled the bolt and removed the broken-off chunk, there was what looked like a "spacer" sleeve left. Well, turned out, it was RTV. The owner before Mister 4x4 had to do that.
Here's a look at the manifolds, as a unit, separated from the engine.
Next off was the valve cover. Glad I have a metal one! He's a shot of the inside; looks pretty clean.
Here's a look at the valve train. A little dirty, but not too bad. You can see the missing pushrods for cylinders 4 and 5, as a result of the collapsed lifters.
It's hard to see, but in the next two pics, there's some caked-on gunk on some of the pushrods.
My grandpa taught me well! He was one of my heroes growing up. Was an aircraft mechanic in the Navy, starting in WW II, and lasting 20 years. He taught me about the cardboard "jigs" for keeping bolts and stuff straight.
Here's the back half of the block ...
and the front half.
Here's a look at the combustion chambers. Plenty of cleaning to be done. I hit it already with parts cleaner, and will take a brass brush on a dremel to it tomorrow.
I had already hit the valves with a wire wheel on my bench grinder, and then went after them with a drill and a red scotchbrite pad (lock stem in drill chuck, turn on drill, use pad to polish). Worked like a charm!! BTW, an input on cleaning the head would be appreciated! Thank you!
I was quite pleased as well! I ran it through several revolutions with bright LED light just to be sure.
I miss them, too.
I am beginning to think the intake/header/EFI plans are going to be the easiest to accomplish. Finding patch panels in stock anywhere is getting more and more difficult. Most aggravating. But, Klooge will be registered as a "historic vehicle" here, and will have collector insurance. The insurance will limit his use, so he'll still be "stated up, run for a bit, then put back in storage." But the Holley EFI should definitely fix any "richness" issues.
It's time to compare/contrast! Pics of cleaned up valves, a mostly cleaned up head, and shiny pistons!
These are the valves after the scotch bright cleaning. Not "out-of-the-box-new" condition, but WAY better than they were!
![Handheld power drill Safety glove Gas Hammer drill Electrical wiring]()
![Audio equipment Gas Personal protective equipment Auto part Wood]()
Here are a few pics of the combustion chambers after running through a couple of brass brush bits on a rotary tool, as well as the lapped seats.
![Automotive tire Audio equipment Font Bumper Motor vehicle]()
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Bumper Automotive engine gasket]()
![Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Wheel Automotive exterior]()
Got the valves re-installed. I have learned to seriously dislike two things: suction-cup lapping tools, and cheap spring compressors!
![Product Automotive tire Bumper Gas Engineering]()
Got the pistons pretty well cleaned up. Again, they're not "factory" cleaned, but I did what I could to get rid of the carbon.
![Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive engine gasket]()
I'm working on removing the diamond plate. This is what was under the driver's side rear corner. A friend commented he expected more rust, and was surprised at its lack. I told him "that's because Bondo doesn't rust."
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Automotive design]()
Poor Klooge, still undergoing open-heart surgery!
![Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle]()
Next is to put everything back together and get the engine running again. It has become a "challenge accepted" issue for me; that engine WILL run again!
These are the valves after the scotch bright cleaning. Not "out-of-the-box-new" condition, but WAY better than they were!
Here are a few pics of the combustion chambers after running through a couple of brass brush bits on a rotary tool, as well as the lapped seats.
Got the valves re-installed. I have learned to seriously dislike two things: suction-cup lapping tools, and cheap spring compressors!
Got the pistons pretty well cleaned up. Again, they're not "factory" cleaned, but I did what I could to get rid of the carbon.
I'm working on removing the diamond plate. This is what was under the driver's side rear corner. A friend commented he expected more rust, and was surprised at its lack. I told him "that's because Bondo doesn't rust."
Poor Klooge, still undergoing open-heart surgery!
Next is to put everything back together and get the engine running again. It has become a "challenge accepted" issue for me; that engine WILL run again!
If I wasn't going to be needing the valve spring compressor I bought for that job for my own purposes, I would've sent it with you.
Looks like you did a fine job getting everything cleaned up - looks about like it did when I put it all back together so many years ago. How were the old valve seals, BTW (they don't look too 'horrible' from the pic)? Once you get it all back together, it should run pretty awesome - especially, with the Offy intake, header, and EFI you've got planned.
Looks like you did a fine job getting everything cleaned up - looks about like it did when I put it all back together so many years ago. How were the old valve seals, BTW (they don't look too 'horrible' from the pic)? Once you get it all back together, it should run pretty awesome - especially, with the Offy intake, header, and EFI you've got planned.
Yeah, you're gonna need that compressor; you have more springs to deal with than I do.If I wasn't going to be needing the valve spring compressor I bought for that job for my own purposes, I would've sent it with you.
Looks like you did a fine job getting everything cleaned up - looks about like it did when I put it all back together so many years ago. How were the old valve seals, BTW (they don't look too 'horrible' from the pic)? Once you get it all back together, it should run pretty awesome - especially, with the Offy intake, header, and EFI you've got planned.
I was trying to be careful not score/gouge the metal, but still get as much built up carbon/oil/etc., off of surfaces as I could.
The old seals actually weren't bad; I couldn't really see any damaged spots, just a bit of carbon here and there, and that was from disassembly.
All in all, aside from the collapsed lifters and carbon buildup, the engine is in pretty good shape!
Monday was *supposed* to be "chore day."
Yeah. Right. Sure.
So, out to the garage I went. My intention was to reassemble Klooge and hear him running.
First order of business, get the head back on the engine. Those of you who have rebuilt 258s know what a pain it is to put the head back on while the engine is still in the chassis. No guide pins to help, and 70+ pounds of cast iron and steel is a blown back in the making. So, I improvised, "necessity is the Mother of Invention" and all that. I have a nice engine hoist ... why not put it to work? I did just that. I used 4 of the rocker arm pivot bolts as mounting points, and with the use of the leveler, got the head where it needed to be, and at a matching angle, to boot! No guide pins? No problem! The head bolts are long enough to handle alignment duties if you're within 1/4-1/2" of the block surface.
I'm sure my methods will have some folks pulling their hair in aggravation. I'm also sure my methods are not new, but I had never encountered them before. Never really needed them, TBH. The point is, they worked, and nothing was damaged in the process. The key here is just to take your time. Slow. Smooth.
Here's the head hanging off the hoist ...
![Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design]()
... and here's a shot of the bolts about to act as guide pins.
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Gas Automotive exterior]()
AANNNNNDDDD ... the head is in-place.
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Electrical wiring Rim]()
I got so wrapped up and focused on what I was doing, I didn't take many pics. Here's one of Klooge sitting silently, judging me, mocking me ... refusing to start.
![Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire]()
I spent a couple of hours futzing about with the distributor, wondering is it 180 out? It sounds like it's trying to fire, just not where it's supposed to. Well, the rotor was off by a tooth or two, but I had also forgotten to bake in 6 degrees of timing. Once I got all that sorted ... well ... here ...
Mission accomplished! He's running! Sorta. Need to get the fuel feed issues sorted. The return line is completely blocked, and the feed line seems to be partially blocked. The tank has about 3 gallons of fuel in it, so plenty for the pickup.
Fingers crossed!
Yeah. Right. Sure.
So, out to the garage I went. My intention was to reassemble Klooge and hear him running.
First order of business, get the head back on the engine. Those of you who have rebuilt 258s know what a pain it is to put the head back on while the engine is still in the chassis. No guide pins to help, and 70+ pounds of cast iron and steel is a blown back in the making. So, I improvised, "necessity is the Mother of Invention" and all that. I have a nice engine hoist ... why not put it to work? I did just that. I used 4 of the rocker arm pivot bolts as mounting points, and with the use of the leveler, got the head where it needed to be, and at a matching angle, to boot! No guide pins? No problem! The head bolts are long enough to handle alignment duties if you're within 1/4-1/2" of the block surface.
I'm sure my methods will have some folks pulling their hair in aggravation. I'm also sure my methods are not new, but I had never encountered them before. Never really needed them, TBH. The point is, they worked, and nothing was damaged in the process. The key here is just to take your time. Slow. Smooth.
Here's the head hanging off the hoist ...
... and here's a shot of the bolts about to act as guide pins.
AANNNNNDDDD ... the head is in-place.
I got so wrapped up and focused on what I was doing, I didn't take many pics. Here's one of Klooge sitting silently, judging me, mocking me ... refusing to start.
I spent a couple of hours futzing about with the distributor, wondering is it 180 out? It sounds like it's trying to fire, just not where it's supposed to. Well, the rotor was off by a tooth or two, but I had also forgotten to bake in 6 degrees of timing. Once I got all that sorted ... well ... here ...
Mission accomplished! He's running! Sorta. Need to get the fuel feed issues sorted. The return line is completely blocked, and the feed line seems to be partially blocked. The tank has about 3 gallons of fuel in it, so plenty for the pickup.
Fingers crossed!
HAHAHA! You make it sound SO simple! If I can get this done by Christmas, I'll be thrilled! Parts (and budget) are the holdup right now. Everybody is "temporarily out of stock," which is really, REALLY annoying.
Oh, well. This will happen. I have spoken.
As promised, pics of the roll bar removed.
Here it is, out completely. Not the rust on the undersides of the mounting points. Salvageable? We'll see.
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Automotive design Floor]()
These are the spots on the body ... driver's upright, driver's support, pax support, pax upright. The pax upright location is going to be one helluva repair.
![Water Wood Tints and shades Gas Trunk]()
![Wood Paint Art Rectangle Road surface]()
![Brown Fluid Wood Gas Tints and shades]()
![World Wood Paint Rectangle Art]()
I'll work on cleaning things up a bit more this weekend and post more pics.
Here it is, out completely. Not the rust on the undersides of the mounting points. Salvageable? We'll see.
These are the spots on the body ... driver's upright, driver's support, pax support, pax upright. The pax upright location is going to be one helluva repair.
I'll work on cleaning things up a bit more this weekend and post more pics.
Ok, it's been a while.
A bit catch-up --
1. The engine is out and on a stand.
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Machine Auto part]()
![Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Hood]()
2. Firewall actually looks pretty decent.
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Vehicle Automotive design]()
3. The EPA outlawed methylene chloride in (I think) 2019. Without that, strippers just don't work as well. I went through most of a quart of Citristrip ... um ... useless. Went to Rustoleum Aircraft Stripper ... better, but still not "great."
![Black Sleeve Wood Rectangle Plant]()
4. Testing non-chemical means of stripping on the floors ... effective, but DIRTY. Need to use the shop vac as a dust collector.
![World Urban design Building Font Sculpture]()
5. I've had to drill out more bolts on the windshield hinges (3/8). They're off, though. They took most of the sheet metal with them. They'd been on there for 41 years ... not surprised.
6. Looks like the dash/windshield/cowl mount are all 16 gauge. I think I have enough for repairs, at least for the hinge areas. What's going to be a pain is getting the hinge pillars out. I got whole new ones ... may not "need" complete new ones, but would be nice to have them in there!!
7. The floors are a grab bag of good/bad metal, odd bolts (WTF are THESE for????), and insane patches. Looks like they did a "skin graft" from what may have been a GM vehicle (looks like a GM shade of blue) to patch the driver floorboard. The just welding a chunk of 1/8" plate on the pax side.
Here's a YouTube video update. Still learning how to use the video editor. I figured out the bracing/holes were for the spare tire carrier (which Klooge did NOT have). It's a Cardone steering gear box, with a Saginaw pump.
More to come in a few days!!
A bit catch-up --
1. The engine is out and on a stand.
2. Firewall actually looks pretty decent.
3. The EPA outlawed methylene chloride in (I think) 2019. Without that, strippers just don't work as well. I went through most of a quart of Citristrip ... um ... useless. Went to Rustoleum Aircraft Stripper ... better, but still not "great."
4. Testing non-chemical means of stripping on the floors ... effective, but DIRTY. Need to use the shop vac as a dust collector.
5. I've had to drill out more bolts on the windshield hinges (3/8). They're off, though. They took most of the sheet metal with them. They'd been on there for 41 years ... not surprised.
6. Looks like the dash/windshield/cowl mount are all 16 gauge. I think I have enough for repairs, at least for the hinge areas. What's going to be a pain is getting the hinge pillars out. I got whole new ones ... may not "need" complete new ones, but would be nice to have them in there!!
7. The floors are a grab bag of good/bad metal, odd bolts (WTF are THESE for????), and insane patches. Looks like they did a "skin graft" from what may have been a GM vehicle (looks like a GM shade of blue) to patch the driver floorboard. The just welding a chunk of 1/8" plate on the pax side.
Here's a YouTube video update. Still learning how to use the video editor. I figured out the bracing/holes were for the spare tire carrier (which Klooge did NOT have). It's a Cardone steering gear box, with a Saginaw pump.
More to come in a few days!!
Got an early start, and got a fair amount done.
First, snapped a pic of the "old" whiteboard list for posterity.
![Handwriting Whiteboard Font Line Rectangle]()
Then, wrote out the list of stuff to do as the "new whitboard."
![Handwriting Whiteboard Font Line Rectangle]()
Made final preps for body removal. A buddy of mine (Gregg) came over to help.
![Automotive tire Building Automotive design Floor Flooring]()
Got the body off the frame and out to the driveway, where we washed about 10 pounds of mud, dirt, rat's nests, etc., off.
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle]()
We got the tub back in the garage. Took some pictures of the windshield hinge mount points. OEM hinges had never been pulled.
![Wood Gas Composite material Font Metal]()
![Wood Gas Rectangle Font Metal]()
Rolled the frame out, hosed it off, and got it back in the garage. Tight tolerances in there now!
![Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive tire Building Machine]()
And here's a link to the YouTube video:
First, snapped a pic of the "old" whiteboard list for posterity.
Then, wrote out the list of stuff to do as the "new whitboard."
Made final preps for body removal. A buddy of mine (Gregg) came over to help.
Got the body off the frame and out to the driveway, where we washed about 10 pounds of mud, dirt, rat's nests, etc., off.
We got the tub back in the garage. Took some pictures of the windshield hinge mount points. OEM hinges had never been pulled.
Rolled the frame out, hosed it off, and got it back in the garage. Tight tolerances in there now!
And here's a link to the YouTube video:
Progress has been made.
I'm working on a few things at once.
First, here's my first attempt at a patch panel, lying in its intended final location. I plan on cutting out the wheel arch and plug welding it to the patch panel.
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Automotive exterior Bumper]()
Been working on stripping everything off the frame. Turns out I have the "factory feature" of a bit of a twist to the frame. It's not bad, between 1/2" to 3/4". Once I get everything squared away and re-assembled, there shouldn't be any problems. I definitely need to replace 3 of the frame-to-body mount points. I have most all of the parts I NEED now. Bonus this summer will pay for the rest.
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle]()
I never in my life thought I would have a vehicle to this point of disassembly.
![Automotive tire Vehicle Line Urban design Asphalt]()
I'm working on a few things at once.
First, here's my first attempt at a patch panel, lying in its intended final location. I plan on cutting out the wheel arch and plug welding it to the patch panel.
Been working on stripping everything off the frame. Turns out I have the "factory feature" of a bit of a twist to the frame. It's not bad, between 1/2" to 3/4". Once I get everything squared away and re-assembled, there shouldn't be any problems. I definitely need to replace 3 of the frame-to-body mount points. I have most all of the parts I NEED now. Bonus this summer will pay for the rest.
I never in my life thought I would have a vehicle to this point of disassembly.
1 - 20 of 403 Posts
