[bob4703]

IIRC my passenger side is different. On the other hand, I haven't looked at mine in over four years. I can post pictures of mine to give you something to compare to. With no fenders or hood on it and in the way I can get close pictures. May be Sunday before I can do it.

 

[keith460]

Photos below.
Drivers side:

Passenger side:

 

[JeepRebel]

Ok.. hmmm
So both sides have the "L"..or whatever it's called.. on the bottom?

And what is the purpose of the plate between the mount and the engine mounting plate(?) ?.. those aren't OEM are they?

JR

 

[keith460]

Ok.. hmmm
So both sides have the "L"..or whatever it's called.. on the bottom?

And what is the purpose of the plate between the mount and the engine mounting plate(?) ?.. those aren't OEM are they?

The mounts can only fit one way onto the engine block, so yes, the "L" faces down.

The shim plates are OEM. Not really a shim but a backer plate to reinforce the rubber motor mount to the engine bracket. It's needed since the engine brackets have an irregular surface mount that faces the rubber motor mount. The motor mounts encased steel plate is rather thin so the backer plate gives it the additional strength needed. They're about 1/8" thick plates.

 

[JeepRebel]

Ok.. yeah I kinda learned that by trial and error yesterday.. but had read the driver's side had to be down and the drinker's side had to be on top.. but my oil filter would'nt allow me to install it up so I just installed them both on bottom.

Is backer plate the proper nomenclature so I know the keyword to shop for? That's if you buy them.. or do you have to fabricate them?

thank you
JR

 

[keith460]

I don't think you will ever find those Backer Plates for sale anywhere. Most CJ owners I know do not have them or they didn't come with them on early made CJ's. I think I started seeing them as an OEM part around 1982 or 83'.
They are not even listed in the parts manual under any part number for the CJ either. They only list different length motor mount bolts in .75"L (without plate), 1.00"L (with plate) and 1.25"L (with plate and heat shield, CALIF models). But they do list a part number under Cherokee and Wagoneer and J10's. Part # J5364387 SHIM.

I've owned my CJ-7 since new in 1984, so the plates were always there from the factory.

 

[Tswiczko]

Does the engine sit level?
I just had my engine trans and tcase out. I rebuilt both gear boxes and put them back in Saturday. I have the same mounts as you with the L going toward the bottom and the driver's side mount looks like it sits about 1/2 inch lower in the perch than the passenger side. My passenger side perch is a slot and the driver side has a series of 3 holes about 3)8 inch apart but the engine seems to be level where I have it so I left it.

 

[JeepRebel]

Tswiczko,
Yes.. it seems level. I also have the 3 holes on driver's side and single slot on the passenger's side.
I posed this and have had many other questions as I go along because of a couple of variables I'm dealing with roadstoring "Effy".
They are: Effy is a 1975 CJ5 and her engine codes to it being a 1971 J-truck 258. The old mm's (that I made the mistake of tossing out) we're broken or swelled so badly that one looked like it was double or triple stack of mounts. I also remember that one looked like it was a mount with the L but with a slot the L fit into. So I have to consider if mismatched mounts were used or if matching (but different year/model) mounts were used. THEN ..Was it even necessary to use mismatched / different mounts or did the pos just use any mounts they could find?
There is the other variable, like the engine, when it comes to parts and repairs the previous owner (or owners) have worked around (avoided) making some repairs and other repairs were made but with incorrect year/model or "custom" fabricated parts. Requiring each task that comes to include having to make their neglected repairs and/or question what I'm looking at if it was done correctly or that a part is the correct part with no missing pieces.

I know I'm not alone in this. It's a part of the process all its own that is inherited by ALL who work on old neglected jeeps and that have to reuse any parts... But it is challenging at times and not always fun.

JR

 

[keith460]

FYI

Both sides use the same motor mount, no difference between them. Purchase motor mounts from NAPA or Rockauto. Anchor Brand is a good name and are made in USA. Others usually come from China or overseas and the rubber deteriorates, like all China made rubber parts do, in less time than usual. Crown and Omix-Ada brands come to mind.

When dropping the engine into the frame mount brackets, the drivers side goes in first since it is just a through holes for the motor mounts stud. Then the passenger side stud arcs down into the elongated slot. This is the easiest way to drop the engine and drive-train in place, and how it was done on the production line.
The three holes and three slots on the frame brackets are NOT made to adjust engine front and back. Only the center hole and elongated slot are can be used for the motor mount stud. The other two outer holes and slots are for the motor mounts raised punched pins that protrude from the encased plate and they go in the other holes and slots to help keep the mounts from shifting or sliding fore and aft when mounted.

As far as the orientation of the mounts as to whether they mount with the "tang" up or down, that's debatable. Mine came from the factory with both tangs facing down so we installed new ones the same way. Drivers side needs to clear the exhaust pipe off the exhaust manifold and the passenger side needs to clear the oil filter. Some say if the mount breaks, the torque from the engine running will force it to lift up on the passenger side and force it downward on the drivers side.

 

[wallytoo]

the earlier frame mounts, as for the OP's '75, do not have multiple "slots", although the driver side does have three holes. the passenger side has a single vertical slot that begins about at the center of the mount surface and extends upwards.

the driver mount has the three holes, also aligned vertically.

my '74 frame on my '75 jeep, with the original '75 frame mounts.

edit: i suppose the 304 could have used a different set of frame mounts than the 258 did.

 

[Tswiczko]

JeepRebel,
I think almost every jeep from the seventies has survived some form of shade tree engineering.

When I put my springs on my 73 cj 5 I found the P.O. had moved the front eye of the rear spring forward in the perch and did not put a bushing in he use a very large bolt. Just one of many re engineering quirks I have found but I am not doing a total resto I am fixing a bit at a time and driving it in between repairs. Motor is next on my list my favorite is that he totally rewired the jeep using an extension cord.
Ye I have several pieces of yellow extension cord running from the dash out to the component( light coil solenoid alternator etc) but it is working for now.