[KWGW]

I am having the hardest time getting spark to this engine. The engine turns over with no issues but no spark whatsoever. I have replaced the starter solenoid, the coil, points, cap and rotor, and the cables. Still nothing. I am perplexed........Any help with this issue would be great. It is a 1975 360 V8. My 13 year old son and I are restoring it to running condition. It has been a great experience minus getting it to run. I want to keep my son interested and working, he is becoming discouraged.

 

[73Shovelhead]

I've had issues with wiring from the ignition key. I had "key on start" power and the motor would spin forever with no start. I was missing "key on" power to the coil. Find an ignition wiring diagram for your year & motor. Test circuits one at a time. It's not a perfect solution, but I think you'll find a wiring or connector problem. No, I'm NOT an expert here. Just trying to help.

 

[Steven P Holt]

Put a blower on it or a turbo

 

[Anotherusername]

I am having the hardest time getting spark to this engine. The engine turns over with no issues but no spark whatsoever. I have replaced the starter solenoid, the coil, points, cap and rotor, and the cables. Still nothing. I am perplexed........Any help with this issue would be great. It is a 1975 360 V8. My 13 year old son and I are restoring it to running condition. It has been a great experience minus getting it to run. I want to keep my son interested and working, he is becoming discouraged.

When you replaced the cap and the spark plug wires are you sure you got them in the right order? It's also possible the cap and rotor are defective. I've put new ones on before that were bad. Get a spark plug tester and put on the coil wire and then the spark plug wires and see if you are even getting fire. You may also have an issue with timing. Rotate the engine's #1 cylinder to top dead center and see if the rotor is pointing at the #1 wire.

 

[KWGW]

Thank you for the replies. I will confirm the ignition switch and whether power to the coil is there. I will also rotate the #1 cylinder for timing. Two things that I haven't done yet.

 

[80cj]

Put a blower on it or a turbo

Is that going to help the no spark situtation?

 

[jeepdaddy2000]

The engine turns over with no issues but no spark whatsoever.

So you have checked the coil wire while cranking and there is no spark?
If so, then:
Rotate the engine till the points are open.
With the key in the on position, you need to check for power at the + side of the coil
If no power, then you have an issue between the battery and the coil. Continuing checking for power back up through the key to the battery till you get power.
If so:
Then check for power on the -side of the coil. No power means you have a bad coil or a grounded set of points, pigtail, or condenser.
If so, check for power at the points arm. You should have power at the arm. If not, you have an open circuit at the pigtail.
If so, then rotate the engine till the points close. With your fingernail, open the points. Every time you open the points you should get a spark. If not, then dress the points contacts and try again.
If still no spark, then check the coil secondary wire by replacing it with a spark plug wire.

 

[Mister4x4]

Eew... points. Jeepdaddy's the man with the plan on this.

If you ever decide to upgrade from points, look into Duraspark conversion - that would probably be the least expensive way to do it and have a fairly 'stock' system (later models used Duraspark instead of points).

Good luck!

 

[jeepdaddy2000]

If you ever decide to upgrade from points, look into Duraspark conversion - that would probably be the least expensive way to do it and have a fairly 'stock' system (later models used Duraspark instead of points).

My preference is either a Petronix or an aftermarket HEI/DUI system. Both are super simple to install and can be found at most speed shops or on line.

The HEI/DUI are stand alone drop in units with the coil in the cap. They require a single ignition wire run to the dist cap. You would need to upgrade the plug wires aw well.

The Petronix uses the stock distributor and can be swapped back to points if there is an issue with the unit.

Neither require sourcing a loom or multiple components.

 

[Mister4x4]

My best luck has been with Duraspark, hence my recommendation... but I know lots of others who've had great results with HEI, DUI, and Pertronix as well. Between my '71 Mach 1 and 4 Jeeps that I've worked with over the years, Duraspark conversions worked best for me.

I'd tried doing the stealth HEI one day (using my stock AMC Duraspark box) - emptied the box thinking it would be a simple thing, loaded up the HEI module and ran the wires, and it wouldn't even fire... plugged a new DS box in, and I was on the road after wasting roughly $50 on an HEI module, new DS box, and a whole day fartin' around with HEI.

My '78 K5 Blazer's HEI just quit working one morning on the way to work. After the whole morning of troubleshooting, learned that carbon build-up in the distributor cap HEI module cradle interrupted the ground and shut the car off. Fortunately, it was an easy fix, and carrying around a spare HEI module is a LOT easier than a DS box.

Pertronix would actually be the easiest, not requiring replacement of the distributor.

DUI was ridiculously expensive when I first looked into it, and every HEI distributor I've seen installed has chewed up the cam gear. Granted, those might not have been the best-sourced parts (either Amazon or ebay, can't remember). One thing I did learn, thanks to many folks here with great advice, was to pull the distributor gear from the existing dizzy and slip onto the new one - eliminating any possibility of a newer, harder gear chewing up the older, softer metal.

That's what I did with the HEI dizzy that came with my Pro Flo (swapped the dizzy gears). I'm hoping my luck with HEI distributors doesn't persist, since the Pro Flo ECU controls everything.

Hopefully though, KWGW can get his engine to at least fire up with the points and all the excellent advice so far.

 

[KWGW]

It has been awhile since I have posted, and thank you for the advice. We now have spark to the plugs (PO didn't put in the right points) the points were never closing. We discovered the timing was way out of spec. We did the TDC, pulled the distributor (we were 180 degrees out) and now the engine fires. My son has found a new found excitement! it does run rough and I will adjust with timing gun. I will also do a compression test, as the jeep hadn't been started for 15 years. I do have another issue though........the starter doesn't seem to disengage after starting. Probably a wiring issue to the solenoid, I think. Any ideas as to what I should be looking for, to get the starter to disengage after startup? I have attached pics of our project. before and after. will probably never be done but that's not a bad thing.

 

[Fourtrail]

Make sure you have the correct wires on the solenoid on the s and i terminals. If they are reversed it will do what you are seeing.

 

[KWGW]

I will check that.

 

[Mister4x4]

Make sure you have the correct wires on the solenoid on the s and i terminals. If they are reversed it will do what you are seeing.

I had the same thing happen with my '71 Mach 1 when I first wired things up. Lookin' good, my fellow Runnin' Utes fan!

 

[Greaser007]

Glad to hear you found the points not closing. Good detective work.
I would do a cold compression test with all plugs out, to see if you have any cylinders of concern.

I just did a quickie comp test on my '77 amc 304 with a low of 130 and one only high of 145.
So, my average was around 135 and no red flags. ( I had to replace a broken lower head bolt ).

The rear most exhaust manifold bolt on the passenger side is a BOOGER.
Probably the same with the 360. I had to use a wobbly socket and 12-pt box end wrench.
Just a few FYI items of the AMC V-8's. My opinion is they are a tough engine.

For some reason I do think my 304 is running a Prestolite Ignition. which has it's quirks.

Does your engine have a 2-bbl carburetor or 4-bbl ?

Have fun resurrecting the Jeep.

 

[jeepdaddy2000]

the points were never closing. We discovered the timing was way out of spec.

The adjustments need to be done in sequence.
Points first at ."016.
Then the timing. Usually 5 BTDC
Then move to the carb. Adjust the idle mixture.

 

[bob4703]

Happy that you got it running again. Mister4X4 gave you a good recommendation when he said "Pertronix would actually be the easiest, not requiring replacement of the distributor." I'll it is also the least expensive.

I used to pride myself that I could replace and adjust points until one day I couldn't keep them adjusted. When my new points failed at Burger King I had to call my neighbor for help. Between the two of us we got it running well enough to get me home. They had lost adjustment by the time I got home. I immediately ordered the PERTRONIX conversion from Summit racing and they came by USPS two days later. Others had them cheaper but could not get them to me as soon. When the mail lady came I had the hood up and the cap off. 30 minutes later I was driving the Jeep. I don't think I could have changed the points as quickly.

Plan for the next time!

 

[KWGW]

Here's the update on my starter issue: I discovered that the PO has an extra wire going from the coil to the starter solenoid, which kept the starter engaged. After taking that off, the old beast starts up every time and idols great. I took my family on a ride through the neighborhood for the first time, quite rewarding after all the work. It seems everything is working well. I do have a question though, clutch adjustment. Any advice would be great. I think the spring needs to be replaced...... I also need to address the brakes, they don't engage until almost to the floor. Possible master cyclinder seal or replacement? there aren't any leaks from to the wheels, that I can see.
Thanks for all the advice, it is appreciated.

 

[jeepdaddy2000]

clutch adjustment.

About an inch of free pedal. You will want to inspect the bellcrank and rod ends for wear and slop.

I also need to address the brakes, they don't engage until almost to the floor.

i would do a complete inspection of the drums and brake shoes. If not that, then a brake adjustment for sure.

I discovered that the PO has an extra wire going from the coil to the starter solenoid

That wire should go from the I terminal of the solenoid to the coil. It is a 12V bypass for the coil during cranking. Is sounds like it was connected to the wrong post.