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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy - here's my newly acquired CJ5. Hoping to use this as a log of my road to resto(mod)!

What I know about the rig:
  • Late 1970 build with a 1971 title
  • 69k miles on the body, engine had 7k when swapped but I don't know when that happened
  • Possibly one of 250 purple Renegade I out there. I have only seen ONE other photo online of this config, so if you know if any more PLEASE SHARE!!!
  • 4.3L V6
  • T90 transmission
  • T20 T-case
  • 31" tires with possibly a mild lift but I'm not sure
First goals are to get all the fluids swapped, new bulbs, fix leaks, adjust brakes, etc. Then work through phase 2:
  • Disc brake conversion
  • Refresh lift
  • Respray tub
  • possibly audio upgrades

Anyways, here are the photos!



 

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Is that original paint? If so, you may be able to bring it back to life by cleaning it and shooting some clear coat over it. Wild Plum was silly rare. I read somewhere they made 250-500 Rene I’s in 2 colors. Very cool!

found a thread with a fellow talking about a similar jeep about 17yrs ago. Same Jeep?

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is that original paint? If so, you may be able to bring it back to life by cleaning it and shooting some clear coat over it. Wild Plum was silly rare. I read somewhere they made 250-500 Rene I’s in 2 colors. Very cool!

found a thread with a fellow talking about a similar jeep about 17yrs ago. Same Jeep?

The original color is a much deeper purple as evidenced on the significantly less faded dash. I've heard the same on the plum color and was able find what I think is the proper paint code for it so a fresh coat on the outside would be the end goal.

I just ordered an Jeep book from the 90s that apparently has a photo of this configuration - hoping that's true so I can see what it looked like from the factory.


It's not the same CJ5 as in that link, as our VINs differ. I wish the photos in that old thread worked though.
 

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I didn’t notice the vin, my bad

An old trick we used to use with paint was if you can rub the paint and it turns much darker, it’ll darken up with clear coat (because the solvent type properties basically melt through the thin top layer of oxidization… more or less). It’s generally safe for decals if flash times are followed
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I didn’t notice the vin, my bad

An old trick we used to use with paint was if you can rub the paint and it turns much darker, it’ll darken up with clear coat (because the solvent type properties basically melt through the thin top layer of oxidization… more or less). It’s generally safe for decals if flash times are followed
Interesting. I might have to try a small spot. Any specific type of clear?
 

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Mine was super dull and oxidized when I got it (looked almost like a matte finish), and I tried polishing compound, rubbing compound, and just about every kind of 'non-invasive' paint restoration technique I could think of. Then a body & paint guy showed up for training and got my pal Jim hooked on reviving paint. Jim saw me working on my Jeep one day, came by with some 1500-grit, carefully wet-scuffed up a small area on the cowl, then hit it with some 2000-grit, then some 3M Perfect-It polish, and finally threw down a coat of Meguiars' Carnauba wax, and I suddenly had a 6-inch oval patch of factory-new-looking paint on the cowl...

Thanks, Jim... now I have to color-sand and buff-out the entire Jeep to make the rest of it match. Still had a few age-related blemishes in a few places, along with some "Mesquite Pin-Stripes" to deal with (hence the Swamper stripe down the side, to kinda hide them or at least distract), but overall, it brought the factory paint back to life and still looks great almost 15 years later (with regular washes & waxing).

Before (35mm camera in 1996):
Wheel Tire Land vehicle Car Vehicle


Years later (3MP flip phone camera in 2010):
Car Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Check this out - just went and rubbed with a dry finger and got this result. I'm going to hit NAPA today and see what kind of basic paint revival compounds they might have. This seems promising, at least for now!

 

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Start small with some polishing compound (Turtle Wax White or Green) or Meguiars Mirror-Glaze M2 Polishing Compund, Meguiars Mirror-Glaze M9 Swirl Remover, followed by your favorite wax (mine is, duh, Meguiar's Gold Classic Carnauba Plus).

If that process doesn't get you there, wet-sand with some 2000-grit, followed by 3M Perfect-It glaze compound, and your favorite wax.

Good luck - can't wait to see what you come up with!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Start small with some polishing compound (Turtle Wax White or Green) or Meguiars Mirror-Glaze M2 Polishing Compund, Meguiars Mirror-Glaze M9 Swirl Remover, followed by your favorite wax (mine is, dug, Meguiar's Gold Classic Carnauba Plus).

If that process doesn't get you there, wet-sand with some 2000-grit, followed by 3M Perfect-It glaze compound, and your favorite wax.

Good luck - can't wait to see what you come up with!
Do you think polishing by hand for now will work or should I invest in an orbital?
 

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If you've never used an orbital for polishing, I'd be cautious. My first time had me burning thru the paint on my old Nissan 4x4's hood on one of the body creases - that was back in '92, and it was an old-school single-axis (direct drive) sander/polisher with a sheepskin sock and no foam insert. Not nearly as forgiving as the newer random pattern orbital polishers these days. That was a hard lesson learned for me.

I actually hand-sanded/scrubbed/buffed my Jeep (since it's not all that big), but as long as you don't get too aggressive by running at high speed, staying in one place too long, and/or leaning on the buffing surface, you should be OK. Just let the compounds do their work and you should be pleased with the end result.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If you've never used an orbital for polishing, I'd be cautious. My first time had me burning thru the paint on my old Nissan 4x4's hood on one of the body creases - that was back in '92, and it was an old-school single-axis (direct drive) sander/polisher with a sheepskin sock and no foam insert. Not nearly as forgiving as the newer random pattern orbital polishers these days. That was a hard lesson learned for me.

I actually hand-sanded/scrubbed/buffed my Jeep (since it's not all that big), but as long as you don't get too aggressive by running at high speed, staying in one place too long, and/or leaning on the buffing surface, you should be OK. Just let the compounds do their work and you should be pleased with the end result.
Copy that - I'll pick up some Meguires and try by hand before I drop into a more advanced system with some other chemicals and a polisher. I've used one before but it's been a while - I'm a big fan of the Zaino product but want to understand what they recommend for what I'm trying to accomplish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
This is exciting - I can't wait to see how it comes out. That's such a cool color, and I'd bet money it's an original paint job. It's going to be awesome!
I 100% believe it's original. Actually when looking at my tailgate the top has had some paint removed and there's actually green under the purple. I think the custom order of the purple might have been a second coat over the factory renegade i green (at least on the tailgate) which is pretty crazy!
 

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I'm very curious, as I've never seen a purple one, never seen the white Renegade decals, and never seen a white grill.

I'm not going to start the debate again (as you are aware, has already been discused ad nauseum)

I too though believe in refreshing the existing paint as much as possible, regardless of the end plan.

Hoss
 

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I gotta wonder if the Renegade decals are just THAT sunburned/sunfaded that all of the pigment has bled out. I remember the ones on my pal Jim's '75 Levi's Edition Renegade getting pretty close to that level of burn-out (was supposed to have some yellow and/or gold in it, I believe).

Totally agree on at least trying to save the paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I gotta wonder if the Renegade decals are just THAT sunburned/sunfaded that all of the pigment has bled out. I remember the ones on my pal Jim's '75 Levi's Edition Renegade getting pretty close to that level of burn-out (was supposed to have some yellow and/or gold in it, I believe).

Totally agree on at least trying to save the paint.
I don't think so. The decals match the grill, so I think the purple option had a white trim package vs the black. I'll know for sure when my copy of "Jeep the unstoppable legend" shows up next week, as there is apparently a photo a purple Renegade I in there somewhere.
 

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Get a circular polisher….you have to save that paint. I know with a few days of work, it’ll look amazing. (That used to be what I did for a living after all lol)

best of all, you can brag about it being an original paint Jeep. Get ready for some. “Woah!”s
 
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