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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My title says 1969 CJ2A serial number on the title only has nine digits? Is this correct for the model and year?
 

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If it is a CJ2A it is a 1946-49 model. If it is a 1969 model it is either a CJ5 or CJ6.

I was up a t Ironman's a few weeks ago and saw where he was putting a CJ2A body on a late 60s CJ5 frame with an odd fire V6.

Pictures would help.
 

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As Bob4703 states, the 2A was last produced in '49. So it is probably not a 2A or the title is miss-printed. Another possibility is that it is a 2A that was initially sold to the Govt. If so, then no title was issued when produced. When the Govt sold off surplus in the late '60s, a title was issued at that date. I think either of the first two is more likely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It has the old CJ2 frame so I’m thinking the title for year must’ve been a misprint or government supplies sold off it does have the Buick V6 swap somebody unhooked the steering shaft from the steering box because the manifolds were in the way does anybody know of a fix for this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
One more issue is the title only has nine digits for the serial number is it normal for this year vehicle?
 

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The CJ2A had a solid steering shaft down to a Ross steering box on the frame. They are not "coupled" so much as one assembly. The steering box than has a sector shaft pointing out towards the engine that works an arm that goes to a quadrant that then pushes and pulls the drag link. It is not a great system, prone to a lot of wear and play. The interference is usually with the sector shaft and arm, not the steering shaft. In later CJ5 with the V6 there was a shorter sector shaft to clear the manifolds.

However the Buick V6 is supposed to fit in a CJ2A without altering the steering shaft (never tried myself, this is a comment from Novak). Have you got the right manifolds? is it a problem with the sector and arm?

Because it is common to make engine swaps there is a lot of knowledge out there and even kits from Advance Adapters etc. Novak transmissions cover it briefly on their website. The usual alteration is to either cut down and adapt the original column to mate up with a new shaft, or insert a Saginaw column. If you want a period correct column inside the jeep, cutting down an original column makes some sense.

The column needs a joint so you can run a shaft forwards around your manifolds to a steering box further forward in the front of the grille that can directly act on the steering arms to the knuckles.

You will need to box the left side frame horn to take the new steering box and fabricate a mount. Then you will have to create a steering shaft from the new box to the original column . Two universal joints will be required to do this. Then it is typical to convert to a later type single tie rod and drag link setup, the original setup not being worth modifying.

This is a few days fabrication work and some specialist shafts, fortunately plenty of companies out there who can produce this type of machining efficiently.

I would have a good look at your manifolds and steering shaft before assuming you need a new steering system. But if you do, a common upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you for the info on the steering that was very informative I’m missing the one link that goes to the worm gear I think they call it the jack shaft in a video a guy said do not trust aftermarket ones so I have to scrounge up a few parts to get the steering going as for the title I know they want 14 digits on the title now and I only have nine it’s an ancient title from the 60s I’m just wondering if I’m going to be able to register it?
 

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You can find the 53 to 71 service manual and earlier publications on oljeep.com.

There is a good diagram of the steering in there (a CJ3B but very similair) that may set you on the right trail. Once you know the missing parts, eBay or Walcke's etc could fix you up.

If the "jack shaft" is the shaft I am thinking of it goes between the steering box and the qadrant and contains springs etc. There is a rebuild kit that Walcke's sell cheap that is also worth buying before refitting this part. Mine had broken springs and slop that the kit sorta fixed (slop from new, but less slop).
 

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The 69 sounds like a misprint.
You need to identify the V6, as Buick made a number of them. The biggest issue is whether it is an odd or even fire motor. Since the engines were installed in various applications and with different configurations, we don't know what manifolds you are running.
A swap to a Saginaw box (manual or power) on the front frame rail is a vast improvement over the old Ross system.
Again, some pictures of the drivetrain, engine, and body will allow us to take a hard look at what you have.
 
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