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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's my <$30 fix for the '05-'06 gas overflow problem. You can read all the background to the problem in the other threads. Long story short: '07+ got the warranty extension and NHTSA closed their investigation leaving '05-'06 owners up $#!t creek. The new TJ tank costs as much as $900 through dealers. Chrysler will "goodwill" repair them if you jump through their hoops, pay the dealer diagnosis charge, and then another $200 "co-pay". Well, they can now take their "goodwill" and their "co-pays" and stick 'em where the sun don't shine...

You can get this part new for around $30 with shipping or look up GM TSB: 04-06-04-003A for a list of vehicles to try and score one from a salvage yard.

[UPDATE: Adding this list because it's looking like we're depleting the NOS supply of these old hoses. Salvage yard hunting may have to start happening.]
2003 Chevrolet TrailBlazer with 83 L (22 Gallon) Fuel Tank (RPO NNK)
2003 GMC Envoy with 83 L (22 Gallon) Fuel Tank (RPO NNK)
2003 Oldsmobile Bravada with 83 L (22 Gallon) Fuel Tank (RPO NNK)
2002-2003 Chevrolet TrailBlazer EXT
2002-2003 GMC Envoy XL
2004 Buick Rainier
2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer EXT
2004 GMC Envoy, Envoy XL, Envoy XUV
2004 Oldsmobile Bravada
Built Prior to December 2003

Fuel filler lower hose part #15131046:




The bulge in the middle is a little flapper valve:


Here's our lower hose that connects the filler tube to the tank:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The inside diameters are identical. Cut 1 1/4" off the small end and 1 3/4" off the big end. I started out only cutting about 3/4" from the small end to make it the same length as our hose, but it can't make the bend without kinking. I cut some more off and it made for less of a bend and no kink. If you have a body lift, you'll probably need to cut less off. Start small, you can always cut more but once you cut it too short you're on your own...:




Swap your old clamps onto the GM part:


The lower clamp has a little clip on it that you put at the top of the hose so you can feel that it's oriented right when you put in on the tank. The round notch on the GM hose is there to align it with its intended tank, use it as a reference for installing the Jeep clamp. This is very important when it comes to re-installing the new hose. You'll have to feel for this clip because you won't be able to see it clearly:


That's it!!!

Reinstall and you're done. I had to remove the 4 torx screws attaching the filler neck to the body to get the new hose on it. I didn't have to disconnect any other lines or take it completely out, but just needed to move the neck around to get the new hose on.

Disclaimer: I did this on my LJ and it took about 20 min because I could get at the filler through the bottom corner wheel well cover. SWB TJs may be a little more involved to get at the filler neck. If someone does this on a SWB, please post results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Removal and istallation on an LJ is extremely simple.

1 - Access through lower wheel well cover:




2 - Loosen the 2 hose clamps and remove the original rubber hose. (1/4" screw clamp upper & 5/16" screw clamp lower) I found it easier to remove the stock hose with the upper filler neck still attached to the body so I could pull down on it.

3 - Cut GM hose and swap Jeep clamps over (see previous posts).

4 - Remove the 4 torx screws attaching upper filler pipe to body. You don't have to remove the pipe completely. I didn't even disconnect the tank vent, axle vent, and locker pump lines. You'll only need to move and twist it around a bit to get the new hose on:




5 - Install modified GM hose, tighten all fasteners, replace trim pieces as necessary - you're done!!!

Note: Make sure the hose is oriented correctly. If the flapper sits crooked or upside down it won't work right. The round notch on the big end of the GM hose before cutting it is for orienting it to its intended tank. You'll have to feel for the little clip on the Jeep hose clamp and make sure it sits at 12 o'clock on the tank inlet.

Here's the installed hose:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was giddy like a kid on Christmas to see if this would work. I'm very seldomly excited about buying gas...

I took it to the 7-11 by my house which has the fastest flowing pump I've ever seen and it clicked off without spilling a drop. after the first click I filled some more and clicked it off 3 more time just to see if it was a fluke and it didn't burp a drop. (and before anyone says anything, I always stop at the first click - this was an exception to test the fix)

Hope this helps.:cheers2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Strangely enough, Chrysler's fix for the Durangos and Aspens with the exact same issue was to replace the lower hose with one that has a check valve like this plus a wider section just above that valve...hmmm, why should Wranglers get the $1200 dealer repair? (That's what my out of pocket bill could have been to have a dealer replace the tank without the "goodwill" assistance:thumbdown:)
 

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Cool! Nice write up. I think I may just have to give this a try.

Edit: 3/22/12

Took me about 2 hrs to do due to some complications, but it was well worth it!

I just tried it out AND not one drop spilled!

Thanks for the great idea and the awesome write up SHoppe715!

:2thumbsup:
 

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Bookmarking this for future project. I'm tired of having to dodge spitting gas!
 

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Strangely enough, Chrysler's fix for the Durangos and Aspens with the exact same issue was to replace the lower hose with one that has a check valve like this plus a wider section just above that valve...hmmm, why should Wranglers get the $1200 dealer repair? (That's what my out of pocket bill could have been to have a dealer replace the tank without the "goodwill" assistance:thumbdown:)
That is amazing that a $30 part fixes a $1200 dealer repair. :nono:
 
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