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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Many thanks everyone. I really hope this is the root cause of my issues but I’ll replace the points and condenser and find out. Appreciate you guys helping me figure out what I’m working with.
 

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If you go to Rockauto and look up a 1973 cj5 with 304ci they may be the right ones. Points start at $3.50.
 
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Discussion Starter · #44 · (Edited)
I installed new points, condenser, and rotor. After getting it all back together I cranked and cranked. I was able to get a sputter, which is more than I’ve had in a month. Of course my battery, which needs to be replaced, went dead from the cranking. The battery is on the charger but I’m happy with the sputter.

Update —
Took the battery off the charger and cranked again and the old girl fired up! Appreciate the advice and nudging to do this on my own, couldn’t have done it without the JF help.
 

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Congratulations!!! Glad your Jeep is a runner again.
 
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Excellent :p

What points gap are you using and have you then checked the static timing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Factory tach? Amc ran the coil and icm power through the tach, so if you have taken out the factory tach, it will not fire.
You are correct that removing the factory tach will cause it not to start. I’m removing the tach with the Speedhut gauge install — any suggestions on what I need to do to maintain this circuit?
 

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You are correct that removing the factory tach will cause it not to start. I’m removing the tach with the Speedhut gauge install — any suggestions on what I need to do to maintain this circuit?

Unplug the two red wires originating from the factory tach and move them to the side. Then connect the remaining male and female plugs labeled "Tach Plug" in the pic below. That will complete the circuit minus the tach.

I hope that's clear.

Matt

Automotive tire Electrical wiring Font Cable Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Unplug the two red wires originating from the factory tach and move them to the side. Then connect the remaining male and female plugs labeled "Tach Plug" in the pic below. That will complete the circuit minus the tach.

I hope that's clear.

Matt

View attachment 4130013
I can’t find the plugs you’re referring to. The back of the tach looks like this. The wire nuts are me reconnecting so it will start.
 

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You just have to connect the two wires that are next to each other together, that will allow power to pass to the coil. As for setting your point gap, I would set the running dwell as you have a distributor with external adjust-ability. Looks like the 304 should have about 30 degrees of dwell.
 

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I can’t find the plugs you’re referring to. The back of the tach looks like this. The wire nuts are me reconnecting so it will start.
So, apparently the tach harness has been hacked by a PO. As Fourtrail said, you can just connect the 2 white wires that are near each other together. That should complete the circuit with out the tach. The white wire that connects to the orange tach wire is for the tach light. You won't need that one, if you are eliminating the factory tach.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
You just have to connect the two wires that are next to each other together, that will allow power to pass to the coil. As for setting your point gap, I would set the running dwell as you have a distributor with external adjust-ability. Looks like the 304 should have about 30 degrees of dwell.
Thanks for the tips. I swear I tried connecting the tach wires and had no luck. Just tried again and all is right in the world.

I’ll work on the dwell also, thanks for the quick response.
 
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