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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 10:05 AM
wingless It is a little controversial, but I always remove both block drain plugs when flushing the coolant. At the first removal, a tool must be inserted to break away the factory sealant.

When I'm flushing, I have the garden hose flowing into the radiator, the radiator drain open and the block plugs removed.

Mine is also garden hose flushed both ways through the heater core, then that water blown out w/ compressed air.

It is possible to test the old / new thermostat on a stove, by observing the suspended parts in a water pot being brought to a boil, violating the whole "it never boils" theorem.



Today 09:55 AM
1996maroonzjf
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Finished my tranny crossmember/ belly skid- combo. I do need to take it sandblasted and then painted, but other than that it's done.
I also welded rear supports to the frame stiffeners.

Skid only has a 2mm thick mild steel plate (~14 gauge steel), but the skid itself is 3/8" UHMW PE (also known as HDPE; this is HDPE 500). Should be plenty strong and slide over rocks way better than abrasion-resistant steel.






Great work as always Timo! I bet that is a lot lighter than my set up. I really like the idea of replaceable HDPE taking the brunt of the abuse.

The IRO belly skid and Skid row engine / transmission skid weigh in around 100 pounds together. The shipping weight for the belly skid is 45 lbs and the Skid Row one is 48 lbs.
Today 09:55 AM
Timo_90xj I would flush the cooling system the best I can, and as much as I'm not a fan of backward- flushing the heater core, at this point I'd probably do that with as hot water as you can get from the water outlet for your garden hose. Do NOT use full pressure!
After flushing the heater core and block, fill up the system with just water and one or two dishwasher tablets (or the amount of dishwasher gel you'd normally fill into your dishwasher). Allow the engine to heat up and cool down a couple cycles, then fully drain the system, do another flush (backward flush the heater core again - carefully), then fill up with 50/50 water antifreeze.

This defintely isn't a problem with your battery cables, they have nothing to do with it. As was mentioned, it's either air pocket, blockage, or faulty t'stat.
Today 09:28 AM
BeardyHat
Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleFootZJ View Post
Seeing temps as high as 255 can sometimes ruin the thermostat and make it stick. I still highly recommend going to your local auto store and getting a spill free funnel, preferably see through, and running the car to see if you can get some air out. But first I would put in a new thermostat, and not some low temp one those are not ideal. Also if the ac clutch is stuck on remove the fuse/relay for it for now so you donít overheat the compressor and deal with that after you sort out the cooling.

Also, it has nothing to do with your battery cables. So just get that out of your head. No heat and overheating after changing your radiator 98% of the time is an air pocket in the cooling system. My MR2 is notorious for air pockets in the coolant after opening the system and it takes usually a weekend for me to get all the air out even if I use my Venturi filler.

Sometimes cars are super frustrating I totally feel you there. But just be methodical and you can narrow down the issues, throwing parts at it sometimes makes the problem even harder to find because youíre adding new variables into the equation.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yup, grabbed a spill free when you mentioned it before and it was super helpful getting the air out. Much easier than without.

Ran over and got a new thermostat, gasket and temp sensor just this morning, so I'm going to go ahead and throw all that in, burp it again and see what happens.

The battery cables are definitely leaving, based on what everyone says, but it's certainly been difficult to drop due to the pure coincidence of it. Even rationally I know it should have nothing to do with them. The only reason I've had a hard time letting go is that the Jeep was great on a wheeling trip the first week of July, came home, sat for a week and had the battery cables changed and now it's overheating. The radiator was just a hope that that was the problem, but the old one definitely was ready to go.


Also, yeah, hella frustrating! I refuse to let myself quit though, so I'll get this issue sooner or later, there might just be long breaks interspersed!
Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
Today 08:51 AM
LittleFootZJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardyHat View Post
Hot, hot, hot!

Seeing temps as high as 255 can sometimes ruin the thermostat and make it stick. I still highly recommend going to your local auto store and getting a spill free funnel, preferably see through, and running the car to see if you can get some air out. But first I would put in a new thermostat, and not some low temp one those are not ideal. Also if the ac clutch is stuck on remove the fuse/relay for it for now so you donít overheat the compressor and deal with that after you sort out the cooling.

Also, it has nothing to do with your battery cables. So just get that out of your head. No heat and overheating after changing your radiator 98% of the time is an air pocket in the cooling system. My MR2 is notorious for air pockets in the coolant after opening the system and it takes usually a weekend for me to get all the air out even if I use my Venturi filler.

Sometimes cars are super frustrating I totally feel you there. But just be methodical and you can narrow down the issues, throwing parts at it sometimes makes the problem even harder to find because youíre adding new variables into the equation.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Today 08:46 AM
Timo_90xj
Quote:
Originally Posted by KiloWatts View Post
Cool - my tranny mount looks a bit different - only one bolt. I guess you must have a different transmission.
All transmissions on the ZJs use the same style mount. I am not using the OEM style because I don't like it. I've fabricated a custom mount that provides better support sideways, it doesn't allow the engine/ transmission/ transfer case to tilt as much when you're hard on the throttle.
Today 07:51 AM
KiloWatts Cool - my tranny mount looks a bit different - only one bolt. I guess you must have a different transmission.
Today 05:59 AM
Timo_90xj Why would it rattle, HDPE plate is tightly bolted onto the skid

Bushings are the transmission mount, I am not using the crappy OEM rubber version at all. It slightly increases vibrations, but not much.
Today 05:26 AM
KiloWatts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Finished my tranny crossmember/ belly skid- combo. I do need to take it sandblasted and then painted, but other than that it's done.
I also welded rear supports to the frame stiffeners.

Skid only has a 2mm thick mild steel plate (~14 gauge steel), but the skid itself is 3/8" UHMW PE (also known as HDPE; this is HDPE 500). Should be plenty strong and slide over rocks way better than abrasion-resistant steel.






That's really impressive. Does it rattle? I noticed you included some kind of bushings there. Does it also stiffen up the ride a bit?
Today 02:43 AM
riiz
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardyHat View Post
That'd be to see which parts of the cooling system are under temp?

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
Yup, you can follow the hoses and point it above the thermostat and see where a blockage or restriction is, because the temps will greatly differ.
Today 02:20 AM
Timo_90xj Finished my tranny crossmember/ belly skid- combo. I do need to take it sandblasted and then painted, but other than that it's done.
I also welded rear supports to the frame stiffeners.

Skid only has a 2mm thick mild steel plate (~14 gauge steel), but the skid itself is 3/8" UHMW PE (also known as HDPE; this is HDPE 500). Should be plenty strong and slide over rocks way better than abrasion-resistant steel.






Yesterday 05:42 PM
BeardyHat
Quote:
Originally Posted by riiz View Post
Buy a cheap IR Temp-gun from harbor freight and use it see where the cooling system is failing.
That'd be to see which parts of the cooling system are under temp?

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
Yesterday 05:41 PM
BeardyHat
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingless View Post
No head gasket leak, or cracked head causing excessive temperatures, correct?
Not as far as I could tell. I'm not getting immediate pressure at the top hose, which I guess should indicate that. I'm not seeing any oil in my coolant or anything either, but I haven't done any conclusive tests.

I was going to check out the thermostat tomorrow and see if it's sticking closed, since that should be easy to pull and test. Just wondering if the new one is faulty for some reason.

My buddy seems to think it's running lean or maybe there's a bad sensor somewhere or even a continuity issue with a sensor, but that doesn't seem like it to me. Even if the coolant temp sensor was shot, I think my temp gauge would be jumping around or not working at all.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
Yesterday 03:08 PM
riiz Buy a cheap IR Temp-gun from harbor freight and use it see where the cooling system is failing.
Yesterday 02:59 PM
wingless No head gasket leak, or cracked head causing excessive temperatures, correct?
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