|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-28-2015 05:57 AM|
|wingless||This topic shows the custom tool I used to bulge the three blind hole M10-1.5 rivet nuts used to retain the transfer case skid plate.|
|06-28-2015 03:21 PM|
Thanks Rikkard, yep, I have a stick welder and will address it.
|06-27-2015 03:48 PM|
Originally Posted by rikkards View Post
To Boaf32: you may want to visit the frame with a welder and some patches above your vice grips in the second pic before it ends up crumbling between your C clamp.
|06-27-2015 03:42 PM|
|rikkards||I just welded them to the frame and then tightened them down|
|06-27-2015 02:43 PM|
I just replaced the NutSerts in my 98 Sahara. Installing them was not too bad, once I had the technique down. The hassle was how to start the top of the NutSerts "mushrooming" to snug to the frame. Here is what I did for what it is worth:
1. Drill out the inside of the threads with a 3/8 inch drill to remove the mushroom of the NutSert within the frame (where gloves the metal bits gets hot).
2. Use a chisel and BFH to remove the exposed NutSert (or a grinder). Don't forget to paint exposed area.
Now the fun:
3. Use Vise grips to hold the NutSert Flange tightly. To keep the Sert and Vise Grip from spinning when in position, use a C clamp on the frame to lock the Vise Grip in place so you can use both hands: one to hold the socket on straight, the other to tighten the bolt (see Photo).
Purchased my NutSert kit from Black Magic Brakes.
http://shop.blackmagicbrakes.com. 87-02 NUTSERTS W/HARDWARE | 87-95 YJ and 97-02 TJ NutSert Replacement.
Hope this helps.
|08-20-2010 07:09 PM|
Originally Posted by bairy View Post
|08-20-2010 04:17 PM|
Originally Posted by roundlitefan View Post
|08-20-2010 01:34 PM|
I did something very similar but I took regular nuts, ground them round to fit in the holes and welded them in.
|08-20-2010 01:07 PM|
|roundlitefan||Jesus, all that cancer on an '06? Remind me to not even drive my Jeep through Ohio! Nice write up btw.|
|08-20-2010 12:30 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||This has been added to our FAQ.|
|08-20-2010 12:19 PM|
Originally Posted by tangotag View Post
|08-20-2010 11:59 AM|
|Jerry Bransford||VERY nice writeup, I think we ought to add that to our FAQ! Well done.|
|08-20-2010 11:56 AM|
Any concerns with having to use a 5/16 allen wrench to remove rusted in place socket screws in the future?
|08-20-2010 11:39 AM|
Transfer Case Weld Nuts - Write Up
So there has been many threads and pages of banter on Nutserts, quality, install tools, price, availability, tack weld etc...
I did not have much issue with spinning nutserts but the threads in mine were toasted. Take a look at the factory bolts and you can see what was left of the thread.
Of course before you remove those bolts, you remove the 4 transmission mounting nuts(13mm/ 1/2" I forget) then you must support the transmission and transfercase:
This is how bad the frame looked You need to clean between the skidplate and frame after wheeling and winter driving as all that shmutz is collecting between there and rotting away!
Might as well attack some of this too..
Time to get rid of those nutserts. I used an air chisel to knock off the bottom flange. Mine had some tack welds, but that just added 3 more seconds to rip them off. I also used the air chisel to knock off some of the rust scale on the frame and check the integrity.
Here is the hole left in the frame. I used a vacuum and tried to collect as much debris in the frame. Using the air chisel loosens up the scale on the inside too. Back part of the nutsert is still in the frame. With all the other scale up there, it is not going to bother anything.
Next I used a flap wheel to start cleaning up the area.
Switched up to a course wire wheel. BTW, I hate changing out attachments so I just buy more harbor freight grinders when they are on sale for 7.99
Here is my cheap solution. McMaster Carr 90596A033 1/2" Weld Nut. $4.70 for a bag of 10.
Fits perfectly in the opening in the frame
Then of course... WELD! I know my welds are not the greatest, but I know they won't fail before rust eats the rest of the frame. Welding upside down under a jeep is definitely more challenging. If you have a lift on the jeep or a lift in your garage it will be much easier.
After welding all of them in, I cleaned it up a little more, wiped it down with the lacquer thinner and threw a few coats of XO satin black rust paint from True Value ($3.69)
Knocking off all the rust scale and sealing it good will slow the process.
At first I did not like that the weld nuts were not flush with the frame, but I am glad they are not. I want air to get between the skid and frame just a little so the moisture can dry up and I can wash it out easily in the winter time.
I plan on pouring some paint/rust preventing solution down into the frame to help slow the cancer.
Finishing it off, I picked up some Macmasters 91253A718 flat head socket cap screws to replace the factory bolts. They have a matching taper to help locate the center skidplate.
oh yea.. Put the skid plate back on, use new bolts, lower the transmission support and replace the 4 nuts for the transmission and torque to spec.