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  Topic Review (Newest First)
10-21-2019 04:53 PM
BRBauer2 Wife told me last night that the Jeep was still randomly stalling. [emoji3525]

I've done everything but the PCM because my initial wiggle test would not get it to stall.

Well, I took the time this morning to remove the coolant tank and wiggle away. Sure enough, got it to stutter and stall.

Went to the pick & pull to search out a PCM. First ZJ was a 93, next two were 98s, fourth had it taken already.

Thought I struck out until I saw a ZJ in with all the station wagons. Sure enough, 97 Laredo!

Winner!

Got it installed and wiggle tested and no issues at all[emoji1695] 30 day return window.

'New' one.


Old one.


Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
10-20-2019 09:54 PM
firebane LOL crazy how firm the steering gets with a properly adjusted steering box. Had so much slop and loosey goosey that wandering was bad.


Today finished with new led interior lights, steering box adjusted and fluid partially flushed but still puking out brown goo and new radiator installed.


Oh also installed a manual rear view mirror as the self dimming has failed.


Now I gotta recheck the front alignment again.
10-20-2019 03:46 PM
BRBauer2
Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleFootZJ View Post
You check the linkage?


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Wouldn't know where to begin with that.

Going to research it.

They aren't in a rush to sell and are going to take more offers, but I'm letting them know to keep me in mind and I might match if I think it's worth it.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
10-20-2019 02:18 PM
LittleFootZJ You check the linkage?


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10-20-2019 01:57 PM
BRBauer2
Quote:
Originally Posted by BRBauer2 View Post
Haven't had to do anything with our ZJ for a week now [emoji2962]

Going to look at a 97 Laredo 160k miles with a selec-trac tomorrow. My current ZJ is just RWD, so not familiar with what I should be looking for on the TC.

Anything particular I should test out or plan on fixing if I buy it?

Owner says it needs an alignment and the coolant sensor on the VIC is going off (yay solder joints). They are asking $700, but don't have any pictures of the underside.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Well, driver's side rocker is well rusted, passenger side isn't great. Rest of the frame appears to be just surface rust after poking around. Engine and transmission feel just fine on the drive and it idles well. Interior is immaculate.

All steering and suspension should be replaced.

And the biggest thing is the transfer case will not budge out of 2WD.

I'm more than willing to buy it with the other issues if they come down to my offer, but I don't know what I'm getting into with that TC.

Any input on what would make it 100% not move out of 2WD?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
10-20-2019 11:16 AM
wingless
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingless View Post
On mine, I yanked the heads, cleaned them up, inspected and reassembled.

Note, most of the heat goes through the heads, so that water jacket is the most important to be clean.
Here are my cleaned up heads.








10-20-2019 05:56 AM
wingless
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingless View Post
On mine, I yanked the heads, cleaned them up, inspected and reassembled.

Note, most of the heat goes through the heads, so that water jacket is the most important to be clean.

Assuming the intake plenum is pulled, remove the plenum pan, chase the pan blind holes and the bolts prior to reassembly per the TSB, not the FSM.

Also yank, disassemble, clean, inspect and reassemble the lifters. Several of mine were collapsed, now all work fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardyHat View Post
Per the TSB, is that this one? http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/09-05-00.htm


Also, does that effectively negate the need for the Hughes plenum kit? I was debating if I should pick one of them up or not for this rebuild, but again, I'm trying to keep things affordable.


Edit: after doing some more reading, it looks like the Hughes plate is basically the TSB part, correct?
Yes, follow TSB 09-05-00 and get new one-time usage plenum bolts.

This reply shows the plenum pan bolt and blind hole thread chase, so that the thicker pan is not required.
10-19-2019 07:55 PM
BRBauer2 Haven't had to do anything with our ZJ for a week now [emoji2962]

Going to look at a 97 Laredo 160k miles with a selec-trac tomorrow. My current ZJ is just RWD, so not familiar with what I should be looking for on the TC.

Anything particular I should test out or plan on fixing if I buy it?

Owner says it needs an alignment and the coolant sensor on the VIC is going off (yay solder joints). They are asking $700, but don't have any pictures of the underside.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
10-19-2019 06:47 PM
BeardyHat
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingless View Post
On mine, I yanked the heads, cleaned them up, inspected and reassembled.

Note, most of the heat goes through the heads, so that water jacket is the most important to be clean.

Assuming the intake plenum is pulled, remove the plenum pan, chase the pan blind holes and the bolts prior to reassembly per the TSB, not the FSM.

Also yank, disassemble, clean, inspect and reassemble the lifters. Several of mine were collapsed, now all work fine.

Per the TSB, is that this one? http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/09-05-00.htm


Also, does that effectively negate the need for the Hughes plenum kit? I was debating if I should pick one of them up or not for this rebuild, but again, I'm trying to keep things affordable.


Edit: after doing some more reading, it looks like the Hughes plate is basically the TSB part, correct?
10-19-2019 06:23 PM
firebane Found my old 13/16-36 Spline X 3/4" DD and grabbed a spare shaft to see if I could put a new ujoint on... Two things so far that I don't think will make a difference but we'll see.


First its that one set screw and nut to hold the shaft into the ujoint but I have blue thread locker on it so shouldn't be an issue but if it does then I'll just put a quick weld on it. The other end to the box uses the same type of set screw so we'll see how it plays out.


There isn't much in the way of making things come loose but you never know.


This was literally cutting the ujoint off right at the end of the shaft to the steering box, sliding in shaft to ujoint and securing.



10-19-2019 05:44 PM
wingless On mine, I yanked the heads, cleaned them up, inspected and reassembled.

Note, most of the heat goes through the heads, so that water jacket is the most important to be clean.

Assuming the intake plenum is pulled, remove the plenum pan, chase the pan blind holes and the bolts prior to reassembly per the TSB, not the FSM.

Also yank, disassemble, clean, inspect and reassemble the lifters. Several of mine were collapsed, now all work fine.
10-19-2019 03:50 PM
BeardyHat
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingless View Post
Your prior replies are confusing, was the engine removed or is it still in the vehicle?



With the engine yanked, heads, timing cover and freeze plugs out, then lots of cooling jacket access is available.



Whatever crud remains will hurt cooling.



Do whatever required while disassembled and after installation to clean cooling jacket.



On mine I scraped the block and the heads. I pressure washed the heads.



My engine temperature is great.
Well, I can't in good conscience put this motor back in as it sits, so I looked into some rering kits with bearings, gaskets and seals. With a new timing chain, assuming my heads are ok and don't need to be resurfaced or replaced, it looks like I could do a cheap rebuild for less than $400.

I'm gonna figure out a plan and then probably cart the engine over to my buddies place and he'll lend me a hand. Here's to hoping we can do it all before the end of the year.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
10-19-2019 02:08 PM
BeardyHat
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingless View Post
Your prior replies are confusing, was the engine removed or is it still in the vehicle?



With the engine yanked, heads, timing cover and freeze plugs out, then lots of cooling jacket access is available.



Whatever crud remains will hurt cooling.



Do whatever required while disassembled and after installation to clean cooling jacket.



On mine I scraped the block and the heads. I pressure washed the heads.



My engine temperature is great.
Engine is out, core plugs are out, but that's it. I'm not planning to rebuild the motor currently, as I don't have the funds to actually do that right now, so I'm trying to get by with what I can do for less money. Primarily I'm worried about the cost of resurfacing the heads once they're pulled, so I'm intending to leave them in place.

Current plan is to clean out the water jacket as best as possible, replug it, clean it up, do a valve adjustment and clean up the valve covers, that's about it.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
10-19-2019 01:51 PM
wingless
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardyHat View Post
Cleaning out my water jacket as best I can today and I'm noticing a lot of calcium deposited all throughout. I've been able to get a decent amount out through the plug holes on the block, but I'm concerned there's probably still a lot I'm not getting. I'm debating if I should put the new plugs in and fill the water jacket with vinegar, letting it sit and then flushing it with the hose. Should I be concerned about getting all these deposits out or should I just do what I can and then move on?
Your prior replies are confusing, was the engine removed or is it still in the vehicle?

With the engine yanked, heads, timing cover and freeze plugs out, then lots of cooling jacket access is available.

Whatever crud remains will hurt cooling.

Do whatever required while disassembled and after installation to clean cooling jacket.

On mine I scraped the block and the heads. I pressure washed the heads.

My engine temperature is great.
10-19-2019 01:50 PM
G-Man2
Jeep Crank no start

You have got to love owning/driving a Jeep GC! My GC had been doing great for quite a while. Well, except for failed clock spring. Anyway, it had been parked for about two weeks while I was on travel and low and behold, when I get home it gives me a crank no start. After much diagnosis I determined the PCM was dead and replaced it with one from FlashMasters. She is back alive and well. I had a good experience with FlashMasters and can recommend them.
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