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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 03:08 PM
riiz Buy a cheap IR Temp-gun from harbor freight and use it see where the cooling system is failing.
Today 02:59 PM
wingless No head gasket leak, or cracked head causing excessive temperatures, correct?
Today 02:32 PM
BeardyHat Hot, hot, hot!

Tested out the new radiator today and still overheated. As of now, my cooling system is entirely brand new, but still seeing ridiculous temps. On my way home from the store, I had a spike to 255*.

I'm almost wondering now if it's the cheap thermostat I put in maybe getting stuck closed or maybe I put it in wrong when I put RTV around it. It was fine for well over a week, but now maybe it's having issues? Wish I'd saved my old one.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
Today 09:58 AM
FlamingRain The first two were plastic tank units, this one is a all aluminum, and I have another plastic tank unit I got on warranty ready to go in as soon as I get the damn inverted flare fittings that are meant for the transmission cooler...
Today 01:19 AM
Timo_90xj
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlamingRain View Post
New water pump is in and NO MORE OVERHEATING! And actually, I have FULL heat in the cab now which has not happened since I've owned the 5.9. Is it possible this water pump has been on it's death bed for a while?
It is possible, but really depends on the condition of the pump vanes. If they looked like new and not worn out by corrosion, it doubt it was the pump causing the lack of cabin heat.

Quote:
Also - the radiator is leaking again. This will have been the 4th radiator to go into this thing. Am I doing something wrong or have I just had bad quality control?
If it's an el cheapo plastic tank rad., they tend to fail more or less quickly. Some last almost as well as the OEM ones, some fall apart in a couple months. I've mentioned this before, but seems to me even the chinese all- aluminum radiators fail at the tank/ core joint. That being said, I'd still prefer an all aluminum from Rockauto compared to a plastic tank unit. My next radiator will be a universal- fit Griffin 2-row, and I'll make it work.
Yesterday 08:37 PM
FlamingRain New water pump is in and NO MORE OVERHEATING! And actually, I have FULL heat in the cab now which has not happened since I've owned the 5.9. Is it possible this water pump has been on it's death bed for a while?

Also - the radiator is leaking again. This will have been the 4th radiator to go into this thing. Am I doing something wrong or have I just had bad quality control?
Yesterday 02:41 PM
HRstretch
Quote:
Originally Posted by KiloWatts View Post
You can wiggle test the PCM or press on it while the engine is running to confirm solder issues. If you're good with a soldering iron you can reflow the joints and the header, which is usually where the problem lies. I preferred to do it this way instead of playing remanufactured roulette. There's a bunch of info in this thread, item #2:

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/...talls-1407423/



Thanks for the link Kilo Watts
Yesterday 12:38 PM
BeardyHat
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996maroonzjf View Post
Man that sounds like some bad luck, but I wouldn’t put back on the 21 year old presumably corroded / crumbling OEM battery cables. It sound like you took two steps forward and one back, but if you put the old cables on you will be 3 steps back

I feel your pain I had some horrible CCD bus issues with my ZJ last summer on a long planned road trip that turned out to be a disaster b/c of the ZJ. I’ve finally got 99% of the issues resolved, and it been rock solid since. It takes time, (and money) as you know, but eventually you will be there.

Just don’t go backwards. Always forward.
Yeah, it's just incredibly frustrating!! I actually haven't had a chance to take it for a drive since I finished up the radiator last night and probably won't until tomorrow, but I'm guessing that even my overheating issues aren't fixed yet. Spent a little time just letting it idle in the driveway and eventually put it into Drive, held the brake and gave it some gas and my temps started to climb past 210. Maybe it's a fluke, but between that, no heat and the AC sticking on, I'm guessing my overheating issues aren't close to being resolved. I'll take it for a drive tomorrow and see how it acts, maybe (crossing my fingers), it's just fine.

But if it's not, I just don't know what else to do beyond throwing parts at it, which is why I wanted to at least test out the old cables. I have no idea why the new ones would be causing issues, but it's the only commonality between the problems I started experiencing after putting them in last week.

The hard part is putting it away and letting it rest for awhile. When I get frustrated with something like this, I start to obsess over it and then I have the hardest time putting it away until I calm down and we all know beating your head against a wall isn't the way to successfully accomplish a task!
Yesterday 12:19 PM
1996maroonzjf
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardyHat View Post
Well, the Jeep has decided to throw a litany of issues at me, apparently, so I think I may need to just let it sit in the garage for awhile so I can be less frustrated with it.

I replaced the radiator and am trying to get the air out of the system, which was successful, but now my AC compressor won't disengage. Also, I'm not sure if this is related, but my thermostat doesn't want to open, as even getting up beyond 195* I'm not getting any heat in the car.

Not sure if it's a fools errand or not, but I think I'll swap back to my old battery cables for now and see how things go, as I wasn't having any of these issues prior to the new ones.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
Man that sounds like some bad luck, but I wouldnít put back on the 21 year old presumably corroded / crumbling OEM battery cables. It sound like you took two steps forward and one back, but if you put the old cables on you will be 3 steps back

I feel your pain I had some horrible CCD bus issues with my ZJ last summer on a long planned road trip that turned out to be a disaster b/c of the ZJ. Iíve finally got 99% of the issues resolved, and it been rock solid since. It takes time, (and money) as you know, but eventually you will be there.

Just donít go backwards. Always forward.
Yesterday 11:18 AM
HRstretch Went to move the ZJ and dash gauges went crazy, switches for door and windows wouldn't work. Wiggled key and gauges started working as well as door windows switches, wiggled more and haywire again. Ordered new ignition switch to replace? Got love electrical issues????
Yesterday 10:18 AM
BeardyHat Well, the Jeep has decided to throw a litany of issues at me, apparently, so I think I may need to just let it sit in the garage for awhile so I can be less frustrated with it.

I replaced the radiator and am trying to get the air out of the system, which was successful, but now my AC compressor won't disengage. Also, I'm not sure if this is related, but my thermostat doesn't want to open, as even getting up beyond 195* I'm not getting any heat in the car.

Not sure if it's a fools errand or not, but I think I'll swap back to my old battery cables for now and see how things go, as I wasn't having any of these issues prior to the new ones.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
Yesterday 08:20 AM
wingless
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingless View Post
When I painted wheels (not Jeep) w/ aerosol lacquer, the only issue I had was the elevated southern Florida ambient temperature caused some drying prior to contact and an imperfect final result.

As was stated, preparation is the most important step. The woven scouring pads are available in different texture that might be useful. Sand paper could also be handy. A feel-smooth starting point is important. Dust-free is important. Removal of the wheel weight(s) would be useful.

When I did mine, I broke the bead and masked the tire that remained floppy loose in-place.

Note that the OEM finish appears to be two tone, w/ the pockets and surfaces as different colors. It might be possible to retain that result by priming all, masking the pockets then silver over face, or all one finish is good too.

The paint I used had a clear top coat.
My custom-ordered 2011 GT Mustang had the optional Brembo package. Part of that package was the really cool wheels.

Mine was an early Mustang, built prior to Ford realizing that the wheels should be painted w/ a product that doesn't wash off w/ normal car soap.

My vehicle was washed, at-least weekly, and the silver wheel paint washed off, exposing the black base coat.

Eventually I resolved the problem. Stripping off the remaining silver, breaking the bead, masking the tire and masking the interior. These were then painted w/ Wurth Silver Wheel Paint aerosol and Wurth GL Clear Lacquer Spray Paint.

The wheels looked new afterwards.












OEM Silver Scrubbed Off - Black Base Paint Remaining - Bead Broken - Masked for Paint


Wurth Silver Wheel Paint


Wurth GL Clear Lacquer Spray Paint
Yesterday 07:13 AM
IMMORTEN Great advice fellers, thank you [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yesterday 04:56 AM
wingless When I painted wheels (not Jeep) w/ aerosol lacquer, the only issue I had was the elevated southern Florida ambient temperature caused some drying prior to contact and an imperfect final result.

As was stated, preparation is the most important step. The woven scouring pads are available in different texture that might be useful. Sand paper could also be handy. A feel-smooth starting point is important. Dust-free is important. Removal of the wheel weight(s) would be useful.

When I did mine, I broke the bead and masked the tire that remained floppy loose in-place.

Note that the OEM finish appears to be two tone, w/ the pockets and surfaces as different colors. It might be possible to retain that result by priming all, masking the pockets then silver over face, or all one finish is good too.

The paint I used had a clear top coat.
Yesterday 04:28 AM
BRBauer2
Quote:
Originally Posted by IMMORTEN View Post
Bought some paint and primer to paint my god awful and sad looking wheels this upcoming weekend.
Painting is all about the prep. You'll want to degrease every nook and cranny, then wash with dish soap, then rinse, then rinse again, get the air compressor out and blow out all the crevices, then let it dry 100%, and finally you can paint. Remember, 3 light coats are better than 1 heavy one.

You might even want to get at those with a wire brush and some sand paper to make sure any corrosion is eliminated.
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