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Thread: My plans to fit 35's - will it work? Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-05-2010 09:45 PM
Knuckelhead
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs4race View Post
Are you saying you jeep weighs 5000lbs?
Yep, without me in it and a full tank of gas., It weighed 5,030 lbs before the Savvy gas tank skid..
08-05-2010 09:28 PM
rs4race
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
4" springs in the front (2,300 lbs axle weight) and 5" springs in the rear (2,700 lbs axle weight). Works for me...
Are you saying you jeep weighs 5000lbs?
08-05-2010 08:52 PM
Knuckelhead
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Until you load up for the trail and then you look like a stinkbug running in reverse while you blind everyone with your too high headlights.
4" springs in the front (2,300 lbs axle weight) and 5" springs in the rear (2,700 lbs axle weight). Works for me...
08-05-2010 07:45 PM
rs4race I was running level with full interior, hardtop and trail gear. That was with 2.5" lift. Now its closer to 3" or 3.5" lift in the rear as i have nothing in the jeep. Sometimes I have thoughts of relocating shocks and either a bodylift or highlining the metalcloaks and inch or so. I think it would be nice to get the flex and travel from 12" shocks all around but don't want to lift it more than it is..
08-05-2010 06:07 PM
alex_c
Quote:
Originally Posted by crgrissom View Post
You might at least want to measure your 'rake' with your butt in the driver's seat and a passenger. If you make it perfectly level when parked, you might not like it when you're in it.

I guess it depends on where/how you like to take your pictures...

Chuck

Good call. Like I said, I can play around with temporary shims and stuff to figure out what stance works the best loaded and unloaded. Then just cut the spacer to whatever thickness it needs to be.
08-05-2010 05:27 PM
crgrissom
Quote:
Originally Posted by alex_c View Post
HAH

It looks like that when it's loaded even without the spacers now!

And regardless, all that gear is gonna come out before I start hitting the real trails.
You might at least want to measure your 'rake' with your butt in the driver's seat and a passenger. If you make it perfectly level when parked, you might not like it when you're in it.

I guess it depends on where/how you like to take your pictures...

Chuck
08-05-2010 04:06 PM
alex_c
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Until you load up for the trail and then you look like a stinkbug running in reverse while you blind everyone with your too high headlights.
HAH

It looks like that when it's loaded even without the spacers now!

And regardless, all that gear is gonna come out before I start hitting the real trails.
08-05-2010 03:54 PM
mrblaine
Quote:
Originally Posted by alex_c View Post
I can always play with spacers to level it out perfectly.
Until you load up for the trail and then you look like a stinkbug running in reverse while you blind everyone with your too high headlights.
08-05-2010 03:47 PM
alex_c Rusty's sells 2", 3", 4" coils separately. I'm sure other suspension manufacturers do as well. You can also use spacers to level it out. Lot of people put more lift in the front to account for the rake that Wranglers have naturally, and the added weight of bumpers, winches etc. I don't have a winch or bumper right now, but the 8.8 will lift the rear end up about 5/8" in the rear, so I need to account for that. I'm guessing a 2" lift in the rear and a 3" lift in the front will be good. I can always play with spacers to level it out perfectly.
08-04-2010 11:11 PM
themcfarland
Quote:
Originally Posted by DH19922010 View Post
Imped clears 35's with a 3in coils up front, 2.5in rear, and 1.25 bl as well as some fender trimming. You will need to adjust your bumpstops so it won't rub. It can be done. i run 33's with 3in of lift and a 1in bumpstop extension with no rubbing at all so 4in of total lift (bl and coils) plus 2in of bumpstop should be fine.

I see some folks with odd length coils.. 3 in front and 2.5 in back..

What company does that?

I am looking to buy a tried , true and proven lift and you guys are talking me into something...

thanks in advance..
08-04-2010 03:12 PM
alex_c those tires are sexy
08-04-2010 01:57 PM
MrGipe I just got my 35s on today

2.5" SL, 1.25" BL...
08-03-2010 05:43 PM
alex_c I have a line on a HP d30 with ARB, 30 spline chromos and 4.56 gears for $700.

I'm thinkin either re-gear the 8.8 (4.10) or swap the goodies into a TJ housing with 4.10 gears.

I wish I had $20,000 lying around so I could stop being forced to make decisions!!!!!
08-02-2010 06:54 PM
Photog2000
Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleWilson View Post
I'm in the same boat. Only thing I can think of that you don't have is axle shafts, but I don't know what's in the 8.8. The rest sound good. Like i said very similar to what i'm planning (Currie 4", 1.25 BL, 1" MML, Blisten Shocks, Rokmen Armor, 35's, Upgraded brake pads. Not sure about axle shafts yet, but will probabaly drive it till it breaks)
Good Call!!!!! If it ain't broke don't fix it. There is a chance you may never break the thing. Look at the money saved. My D35 is working just fine right now.
08-02-2010 07:42 AM
UncleWilson
Quote:
Originally Posted by alex_c View Post
So my original build plan was for 33's..but I figured with the 8.8 swap, 35's might be better.

I'm going to do a 3" coil up front and 2" spacer in the rear with a 1" BL/MML and trimmed flares. SYE, and Currie arms will also be going in. I already have longer shocks, bumpstop extensions, and extended sway bar links.

The front axle will be a D30 with 4.10 gears. The rear is a 8.8 w/LSD and 4.10 gears.

I plan on (eventually) going up to 4.88's with an HP D30 up front, but that's not in the budget right now. 4.10's and 35's isn't perfect but it's still better than the 3.07's and 31's I'm running now.

I will be getting an adjustable track bar for the front, and maybe an adjustable one for the rear, depending on whether or not the height of the aftermarket 8.8 track bar bar bracket is much higher than the stock one (plus the added height of the axle tube etc)

Brakes will probably be centric rotors with EBC pads and steering will get an v8 ZJ tie rod.

Oh, and I'm torn between KM2's and MT/R Kevlars. Leaning towards the goodyears as they apparently have good road manners and are longer wearing (this jeep will be a DD)
I'm in the same boat. Only thing I can think of that you don't have is axle shafts, but I don't know what's in the 8.8. The rest sound good. Like i said very similar to what i'm planning (Currie 4", 1.25 BL, 1" MML, Blisten Shocks, Rokmen Armor, 35's, Upgraded brake pads. Not sure about axle shafts yet, but will probabaly drive it till it breaks)
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