|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-09-2017 09:25 AM|
Rise From the Dead...... Just picked up myself a set of really well built up TJ Rubicon Axles. The only thing is they didn't come with the locker pumps and looks like Ill need to buy those. At $160 per that's a steep price considering I can get an ARB onboard air kit for cheaper. I considered trying to rig up an ARB to the rubi lockers but decided not to mess with it and just bite the bullet and get the OE Pumps. Now, here is why I am reviving this dead thread... What kind of air line should I be running? I have checked out other friends TJ/LJ Rubis and the line from the factory looks like just plain ole vacuum line. Anybody have any incite on this?
Thanks for any reply's and the great info on this thread.
|03-21-2013 05:00 AM|
|HiKnee||Not sure if anyone has viewed this thread in awhile, but figured I'd add some info. The splices detailed in the instruction ARE the only way to go (at least with the 2003 rubi). While removing the locker pumps I started to trace wires to see if they could be removed and rerouted in the engine compartment. I found the factory intermittently wrapped the wiring bundles in electric tape prior to being placed inside the wiring loom (the loom that is routed over the transfer case and head towards the passenger side of the engine compartment. I also found that the ground wires for both pumps are connected to a larger gauge wire, all of which is headed into another wiring loom. This loom is routed towards the driver side of the gas tank and I believe is then routed over the gas tank towards the passenger side.|
|02-27-2013 10:17 AM|
|redrubicon11||does anyone have an good ideas to the get connectors to come apart? I got the clips out and they wont budge|
|02-26-2013 04:27 PM|
|redrubicon11||what is the best way to loosen the connectors. Mine are full of dust and stuff and have gotten hung up|
|07-11-2012 08:06 AM|
|nibblesupreme||Good looking out. I posted that info up on another threat, but I think it was taken down. I'm happy you put up those numbers on this more promenent threat.|
|07-10-2012 10:58 AM|
This is a great thread, thanks for taking the time to write it up. I am in the process of doing a tummy tuck (AEV) and relocating my locker pumps at the same time. I took some measurements of the hoses:
1. Pressure line (pump to diff) - 0.1875 inch / 4.8mm ID
2. Breather hose - 0.25 inch / 6.35mm ID
Each locker pump has its own breather hose. From the factory the breather hose from each pump goes into a barbed "T" and then out to a single hose which is then routed up high (I think its up near the gas fill nozzle).
Nibblesupreme - you may have gotten an answer already but the breather attached to the differential in the picture above is a differential breather (both diffs have their own dedicatred breather), these are only for venting the differential, they have nothing to do with the locker/pump assemblies.
|03-21-2012 10:01 AM|
|nibblesupreme||I'm confused about the the breathers. Is there 1 breather for each axel and another breather for the compressors?|
|03-21-2012 07:41 AM|
Could someone who has done this list all the items you need to complete the project? For example, how much vacuum line (what size, how long), and how much conduit (how long, what size). Does this require new wiring? If so, how long, what gauge?
It would just be really helpful to be able to grab all this stuff prior to starting the project..
|02-15-2012 07:32 AM|
For electrical connections, go to home depot and buy the connectors that have shrink tubing and solder all in one. You simply slip the shrink tube on, do a western union splice (or in-line splice), slide the shrink tube over the splice and heat. The tube shrinks and the solder melts inside the tube making for a bulletproof connection. I use these for all my electrical connections now. They are slightly pricey, but they last forever.
Awesome write-up with great pics. Thanks for taking the time!
|02-12-2012 08:11 PM|
I relocated mine a while ago. I didn't want to use the ABS tray so I did this:
|02-12-2012 01:26 PM|
|4wdjeepguy||I did this mod a couple months ago. Good stuff|
|02-10-2012 06:51 PM|
|Griff1918||this is a great write up, time for me to move my pumps|
|04-24-2011 12:22 PM|
I just relocated my locker pumps to the ABS tray (drivers side rear in the engine compartment). I left the pump electrical connections in the orignal location and ran a 6 ft electrical harness (soldered/shrink wrapped/silicone caulk the connections) from the ABS tray. I got 6 ft of air hose to extend the rear air line forward. Autozone carries vacume line connectors to connect the original rear air hose to the rear air hose exetension going to the ABS tray. I pulled the front air line out of the original conduit and routed the rear air line extension toward the front in that same conduit.
I used a drill press to make the holes in the ABS tray for the pumps. The metal that the ABS tray is made of is soft enough to use a hack saw blade in a jig saw after the holes are made, if adjustments are needed.
I did this over the course of 5 days working on it about 4 hours/day, but I was going very slowly to make sure that everything fit. Lots of measuring three times cutting once. I suppose it could be done in a day with concentrated effort and more skill/knowledge/experience than I have.
|04-16-2011 10:02 PM|
Originally Posted by MightyGoat View Post
Got any pics of the relocated pump in the engine bay?
I want to relocate mine to the engine bay to avoid water issues and damage....
I'm curious of how it looks and fits, and would really like to see some other Jeep's relocation setups.
Got any pics you can post of that?
Also to the thread starter, got any interior pics? how well it fits under the seat?
-- Were you able to seal the body / under the seat, water tight, so if you were to drive in 3ft of water, would there be no new areas for water to enter?
|09-24-2009 04:00 PM|
|MightyGoat||The only source I've found is the factory compressor. I'm sure you could regulate an onboard pump but I wouldn't want to listen to it run the whole time I'm on the trail so it was worth it to me to buy a new factory part. Don't buy a front pump they are about $40 more than a rear and the only difference is the plug color. I paid $121 for a new rear pump from jeep. I broke my front compressor in the mud one day and tried my best to fix it and couldn't. It wouldn't let the pressure vent back out after it had locked the locker. I think i got some mud and water in it. Then I relocated them to the plate under the brake booster. This is something every rubicon owner should do before it ever becomes a problem.|
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