|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-20-2017 12:28 AM|
Instead of spray adhesive, I would use DAP Weldwood Contact Cement in the red can. I personally like the Original not the Gel formula. A quart can should be more than enough for this application. The key to using it is to coat both the hard top and carpet or whatever you are using for sound deadening, then let it dry completely before pressing together.
For a carpet alternative, I'll be using Hydroturf www.hydroturf.com
|02-20-2013 12:47 PM|
|H1Recovery||good idea but I would do the whole top interior instead of just a rectangle. Try using a brush on adhesive instead.|
|01-19-2013 07:48 PM|
|Wrangler2012||Any updates on this? I'm real interested in doing this as I'm trying to improve the street ability of my YJ but just want to verify its worth the effort|
|10-12-2011 11:58 PM|
Originally Posted by CB3 View Post
First off: you're not going to keep it from sweating without leaving the windows cracked, regardless of what you put up there. Either it'll sweat and drip, or sweat and soak whatever you put up there (carpet, what have you).
I think for the most part what you need is just some sound deadening material like the second skin in the OP or some cheaper foil-backed stuff. over that you can always put some vinyl and seal it with some armor-all leather/vinyl conditioner to keep it from soaking in moisture. I'm sure if it works for seats it'll work for a hard top.
As for the carpet mod thing: I used some rubber 19# carpet pad and some thinner indoor-outdoor cheapo carpet. Shouldn't mold, it's a rougher open-nap fabric compared to most indoor carpet and it should dry out pretty quickly. The rubber pad is waterproof so I'm not worried about that. I used some locktite medium-strength adhesive (description gave me the feeling it was stronger/better suited for the materials than the 3M 90 series adhesive).
The fiberglass-to-carpet pad bond was indestructible...as soon as I touched the pad (glued both the top and the pad) to the top it was stuck on, and tore a little as I tried moving it around to fit better. I cut out a strip for the middle support...and in retrospect that was a big mistake. I should have cut off material later on to avoid the bulge. But live and learn.
The carpet-to-pad bond wasn't as strong...and I got a small sag in the middle when I put the top back on. Hopefully after a night of drying with some wood pressing it back into place it'll be better.
Tomorrow night I'll take it for a quick spin down the road and see how it did. I'm assuming a 20# carpet pad is going to deaden quite a bit of noise on its own. If the difference is noticeable, I'll take it back off and do the four corners to complete the job and hopefully disguise the rushed cuts that I made.
|11-25-2009 09:03 PM|
I want to do a variation of this for sound insulation, and to insulate for heat retention to keep inside cab warmer in winter and to prevent top from sweating when I turn on my heat on a cold winter day. I also want it to be mold resistant.
So no carpet because that can mold. I had though of buying some thin pink or white closed cell styrofoam 1/2" to 3/4" thick from Home Depot. Like the stuff they glue to the outside of concrete foundations and concrete buildings to insulate it, but I'd want to use thinner sheets. Then glue it to the underside of the hardtop. Carpet could be put over that, but I don't want carpet.
Does anyone have any suggestions for me? Is there better stuff than closed cell styrofoam for what I want to do?
|09-11-2009 03:33 PM|
Welcome to a local insulation vendor
Originally Posted by 111markambrose View Post
I've already done mine with OffRoadHeroes kit and Thermo-acustic insulation and it has a world of difference, but if I'd known about you guys 7 months ago, I'd probably bought yours !!
|09-10-2009 11:41 PM|
I'm amazed at how good some of the hardtop projects look. I'm Mark, a vendor on this forum, and I have another option for those who aren't as handy. It's my HotHead Headliners Kits. They are panels that fit perfectly in to the recessed areas of your hardtop. I originally made them to cut the radiant heat that comes down from hardtops, but I've been told by several customers that they cut outside noise by about 50%. I realize my headliners cost more that the do-it-yourself option, but I just wanted to throw it out there for anyone interested. You can see them at: hotheadheadliners.com or just go the vendors tab and click the HotHead Headliners banner.
|08-28-2009 11:36 PM|
|EasyT||I've heard of it being done both ways. I did one piece, which seemed to be fine. Just use the high strength 3m spray.|
|08-27-2009 04:49 PM|
I've been wanting to do this to my hardtop. But I recently noticed that on the inside of the top, there is a lip running parallel to the rear window kind of in the middle of the top, you can see this in the pictures posted. My question is... did you just glue the carpet right over that or did you do two sections, one piece of carpet on each side of the little ridge. Hope this makes sense. Help!
|08-26-2009 07:13 AM|
|samger2||I did this mod in a similar fashion on my TJ...I didn't use the liquid skin stuff though I used some foil backed sound deadener, spray adhesive and carpet. It worked great for about 2 or 3 years...but this past year it came "un-glued" and started drooping from the celeing I assume from all the temperature changes over the years. So I'm hoping to come up with a better, more permanent way of bonding the deadener to the top.|
|08-24-2009 11:01 PM|
Originally Posted by incredibull View Post
This mod helped with the noise, but I still want it quieter. I just ordered some eDead 45. We'll see if that helps.
|08-21-2009 10:12 PM|
For those of you who want sound dampening without spending a lot, here's a solution that I used when I was into big stereos...
Instead of buying expensive sound dampening material or fancy sprays, just buy some Liquid Nails at the hardware store instead. Get the kind that comes in a bucket and spread it all over the rattling area with a puddy knife or a piece of cardboard. Make it fairly smooth so you can lay carpet or vinyl over it. The affected area will never rattle again and you're only out about $10.00. When it dries it really stiffens.
I used to enter stereo competitions and used this method on an old '67 Impala. Nobody was the wiser but I did get some comments on the lack of rattle noise from guys with much newer cars.
|08-21-2009 01:49 AM|
|incredibull||I definitely would like to know how much weight this added to the top overall. I would think that it would be a bit noticeable.|
|08-20-2009 12:57 PM|
A guy I work with used to do upholstery work and is helping me to build a headliner. I have had the materials for a few months now to put in an actual custom-made headliner. Basically, you can buy fabric with the foam on the back of it to cover the hard top's area for about $40. Mount that stuff to a piece of cardboard, then either adhesive it to the top, or use velcro so it can be removable. The key seems to be to use the strongest 3M spray adhesive they make (98?)...77 probably won't cut it in the heat.
We are also going to make little inserts for the vertical part of the hard top that goes up by the roll bar, directly behind the doors.
As far as Spectrum goes, I have never used their products but from the discussion here, I wish that I had. I know Duplicolor makes a spray on coating that is designed for wheel well sound dampening. It may not be as good, but it might make a reasonable substitute. I know Summit carries it.
So, Golden, what's the verdict? Is it a lot quieter? I would love it if my Jeep could be as quiet as most "modern" vehicles. It's the one thing that keeps me from wanting to drive it all the time. Well, that and the gas mileage!
|08-18-2009 08:56 PM|
|Bethlehem||I'm surprised this thread hasn't had more responses. I'd love to try this. Sadly though, I've heard that Spectrum is going out of business. I make forklift propane deliveries to the their factory/warehouse on a daily basis, and they told me they will be closing their doors for good.|
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