|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-22-2021 02:54 PM|
I ended up having to just take it to a different shop (that was better outfitted for testing, first place was very basic but it was the closest at the time) and have them look at it.
Ended up being a few things. There was a vacuum line that was leaking and 4 of the plugs had issues with spacing. They also stated there was an issue with the crank sensor not being properly adjusted, it wasn't even touching the flywheel or something like that.
$270 later and it's running great, no issues and no more codes.
Figured I'd update the thread as I hate finding a thread from years ago that is just the issue I have and seeing it randomly end with no resolution or worse yet, the OP just posting "We got it fixed" with no explanation.
|08-05-2021 10:22 AM|
We inspected the wiring harness that wraps around the back of the engine and the plastic/tape wrap on it had def worn though but we could not find any actual wires that appeared to have rubbed through or had any bare wire showing. We even ran the engine and moved the wiring around to see if it did anything and it did not. We are going to try to rewrap the wiring to prevent any further issues but we checked every wire we could and could not find any that appeared to be damaged in any way.
We have other vehicles so it's not a huge issue that this one is down for this long but we are running out of ideas.
|07-24-2021 07:44 AM|
Originally Posted by Bigrigr View Post
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|07-24-2021 07:41 AM|
Originally Posted by Thurmand92 View Post
What year is your WJ? It seems the dealer drops the part numbers off after 20 years, but if you look up a part for a 2004, it will still be available, and is usually the same part for an earlier machine.
|07-24-2021 12:43 AM|
|Delta0||Iffy wiring / connections / communications often cause problems like yours I'm afraid.|
|07-23-2021 07:12 PM|
Originally Posted by Mattyjm View Post
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|07-23-2021 11:36 AM|
|Mattyjm||Also, if your shop installed a cheaper aftermarket crank sensor, that could be your issue. We all recommend using only MOPAR sensors for our engines, but, I have used a BWD factory OEM from AdvanceAuto in my 4.0L i6s with success and longevity.|
|07-22-2021 12:17 PM|
A thought, inspect the engine wiring harness.
There is a known issue, on the LS (injector) side of engine, the wiring harness at the rear of engine as it wraps around head, it was prone to rubbing on the head bolt (stud) and creating these random codes. There my be a soft spot in loom from rubbing, and moving harness would cause the issues. A google search may show pictures to help mental picture to aid checking.
|07-22-2021 11:39 AM|
OK lets regroup- if it was only the CMP sensor thats just 2 screws no problem, ignore comment about timing compression.
The issue is likely your CKP (P0320) and the signal. As I said a scanner to observe waveform is the go to tool. Bad sensor* or a wiring issue.
Again back burner the P0353 coil code for now.
* For the jeep CKP it is always suggested to use OEM as aftermarket is often lacking.
|07-22-2021 09:59 AM|
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
The shop who replaced the Crankshaft sensor did nothing else with the vehicle. The 0353 code was not present until after the crankshaft sensor was replaced as far as I am aware.
This is the Camshaft sensor that was installed (https://www.autozone.com/engine-mana...186/264039_0_0). Nothing extra was done in terms of TDC compression or alignment tools were used. It was remove the two bolts, unplug the old sensor, plug in new sensor and bolt down. The camshaft synchronizer that this sensor sets on top of was not replaced.
The P0320 code was present from the very beginning of the issues.
I am not sure what model crankshaft sensor was used by the shop, but I do know it was from Napa and according to the slip, it apparently cost the shop $44.22
|07-21-2021 12:47 PM|
P0353 - did the shop remove or change plugs?
anyway might back burner till you resolve the next codes.
>> maybe inspect (replace) plugs ohm coil, check coil driver (unlikely) but on the list.
P0320-NO CRANK REFERENCE SIGNAL AT PCM
P1391-INTERMITTENT LOSS OF CMP OR CKP
Both codes piggyback - a issue with CKP - ideally a graphing scanner to observe wavefor is what we do in shop, you did change BOTH CKP and CMP?
Was CMP installed correctly, TDC compression and aligning tool (drill bit) used?
The code for P0320 did NOT show until you replaced CKP?
Did you use a OEM part?
|07-21-2021 12:21 PM|
2004 Grand Cherokee 4.0L I6 Stalling/Idling Rough
About a week or so ago I was about to head out to the store when my Jeep stalled at the end of our road. It had started fine but I did notice that it seemed to not be idling smoothly. In the approx 200ft to the end of our road from where it had been parked it stalled twice. I was able to get it restarted and reversed back but I could tell it was not running smoothly and it came close to stalling a few more times until I got it parked and shut it off.
It gave me codes (turn key 3 times) of P0320, P1489 and P1490. The gauges also danced/flicked around once or twice on me when turning the key on. Tried to start it again and it would crank over but never start. So I went to Google on my phone to look for some common causes.
I'd had the crankshaft sensor on this Jeep replaced in Sept 2019 when it shut off on me while I was doing 60mph on the highway (had to get it towed as it wouldn't start at all). At that time, once he replaced the sensor it fired right up and had been working fine since. No power or idling issues at all, no stalling.
The first code is an issue with either the Crank or Camshaft sensors and the other two codes indicated a voltage issue with the High and Low Speed Radiator Fan Control Relay. I looked for obvious corroded wires, shorts or bad connections but couldn't find anything that stuck out to me.
We ended up towing the vehicle (as it would not start at this point) to a local shop to have him look into it. He ended up replacing the Crankshaft Sensor and this resolved part of the problem. The Jeep now started again and would run, we were able to drive it home (about a mile and a half) but it was running pretty rough and stalling. The RPM meter would drop to 0 for a second while driving before going back up. Haven't seen the dials jump around like the are possessed though.
I ended up replacing the Camshaft sensor as well since it's very easy to get at since it's right on the side of the engine and that hasn't seemed to improve it all that much. It still idles very rough and will stall out at times. We have not replaced the camshaft synchronize that the sensor attaches to but I can replace it if it might help, doesn't seem too difficult.
Since replacing the camshaft sensor the three codes it is giving now are P0320, P0353 and P1391.
P0320 has been there from the start and persisted through both the Crankshaft and Camshaft Position sensor replacements but the other two are new. I didn't specifically ask but I'm pretty sure he cleared the codes after replacing the crankshaft sensor so I think this one returned. I think there is a way to reset them without a scanner but I'm not sure.
P0353 seems to be an issue with Ignition Coil "C" Primary or Secondary circuits. It does sound like at times the engine is misfiring.
P1391 is CMP or CKP Signal Intermittent. Both sensors have been replaced so I'd guess it might be something else in the wiring.
Any ideas or thoughts on what I should try to do next?