|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-02-2021 12:41 PM|
I posted another reply to this thread but it did not post so if it shows up later, sorry for the duplication. I just wanted to update all whop responded and maybe help anyone with similar problem.
After my post I changed the ECT sensor. It Sio an easy 15 min job. Just remove the air intake, the sensor is right there on top of the water pump on the right.
Anyway, the FAN still not working. Next I pulled put the FAN relay next to the expansion tank 12V there. Next was the TIPM. There is a yellow 20 amp fuse for the fan. Pulled that out and the engine died......... dang, what did I do now. . Quickly put the fuse back and the engine started on first try. But wow, the FAN came on at 212 F, and stopped at 208 F. I rung the car for a total of about 50 minutes. all seems ok. No error codes on the code reader either. BTW I bought his code reader. So far pretty impressive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have not driven the car on the road yet but feel confident that I can drive it to my mechanic and have him do a one over, change all the fluids, flush the radiator again, lubricate things and maybe get new plugs. Its almost 97,000 miles on my WK2
THANK YOU ALL in particular thank you ColdCase.
|07-02-2021 12:27 PM|
|gigharbori||I hope that is not the case for me. You are braver than me. Last time I opened a head gasket myself was on my 1978 Scirocco. I ended up with a few extra bolts and a tow to the mechanic. Good Job.|
|06-25-2021 08:23 PM|
Had similar Issue.
My GC 2012 Overland 5.7, was doing same, found was internal leak in one of the Head Gaskets, on the exhaust port, so nothing showed up.
Did it my self, removed heads, had them machined, got new set of Gaskets and Head bolts, and just in case, replaced radiator and water punp. Now as good as new, done 220,000 Kilometers.
|06-24-2021 07:37 PM|
|gigharbori||wow. COLDCASE. That is awesome. I will start working on it step by step as you outlined. Hopefully in a week or so I can come back with a positive report. I should send you some local microbrew for your hard work. If you ever venture to Gig Harbor wa call on me. THANK YOU|
|06-24-2021 07:35 PM|
|gigharbori||Thank you. I have a voltmneter..... Will do.|
|06-24-2021 06:43 PM|
There are two different cooling systems, sounds like you have the basic.
Its a two speed fan with two fan relays in the TIPM which are controlled by the PCM. The speed is electrically controlled, a temperature sensing fan clutch is not used.
P2181 is a coolant system performance code. The fan isn't turning on... which could be causing the code. The PCM should set a DTC if it detects a problem in the fan relay or circuit. If the electric cooling fan is inoperative, Check the fuse in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) with a 12 volt test lamp or DVOM. Refer to the inside of the cover for the exact location of the fuse. If fuses are okay, refer to the cooling fan and relay circuit schematic. You may want to try testing or replacing the relays. Replacing the fan assembly by the book is a big job, not that easy. You need to remove the shroud and fan as one piece which requires opening up the A/C lines and its very easy to damage the radiator. Onse the assembly is out of the Jeep, you can replace the fan/motor.
Otherwise, for P2181: The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) predicts what the engine coolant temperature should be, based on the engine coolant temperature at start-up, ambient temperature and how the vehicle is subsequently driven. The predicted engine coolant temperature is compared to the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor reading. The error between the two is calculated and integrated with respect to time. When the Thermostat diagnostic runs, the integrated error is compared to a calibrated threshold and pass/fail is determined. Separate pass and fail thresholds are used in order to improve accuracy of the diagnostic.
The code is set when the PCM recognizes that the ECT Sensor has failed its self coherence test. The coolant temp should only change at a certain rate, if this rate is too slow or too fast this fault will set. Two trip fault. Three good trips to clear MIL. The MIL and ETC light will illuminate.
LOW COOLANT LEVEL
(K2) ECT SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(K2) ECT SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
(K900) SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN
(K2) ECT SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(K2) ECT SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO THE (K900) SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)
NOTE: If an Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) DTC is set along with this code, diagnose the ECT DTC first.
NOTE: Inspect the ECT Sensor terminals and related PCM terminals. Make sure the terminals are free from corrosion and damage.
NOTE: The best way to diagnose this DTC is to allow the vehicle to sit overnight outside in order to cold soak the engine.
NOTE: Extreme cold ambient temperatures may cause this DTC to set.
NOTE: Inspect that there are no changes to the Cooling System that would make the warm up much slower or much faster: worn water pump, addition of aftermarket auxiliary cooler or a performance thermostat.
1) check thermostat
2) check ECT sensor by turning the ignition off, disconnect the ECT sensor harness, with a scan tool read the ECT voltage, Connect a jumper between the (K2) ECT Signal circuit and the (K900) Sensor ground circuit in the ECT Sensor harness connector. The voltage should be 1 Volt with the jumper installed. Since you probably don't have a scanner that can read the voltage, assume the ECT sensor is bad and replace it.
After replacing the sensor, still no joy, then you are looking for shorts and opens in the harness. If nothing found its replace the PCM time.
So back to the Fan.
|06-24-2021 06:33 PM|
Originally Posted by gigharbori View Post
Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
|06-24-2021 05:50 PM|
2011 WK2 HEMI overheating
I have 90k miles on my 2011, bought new, it overheated twice in the last week. I added coolant and called my mechanic who is busy for two weeks. So Looked up possible repairs. Thermostat was fairly straight forward so I did that and flushed the cooling system at the same time. Run it at idle and the tempo went to 220 in about 10 minutes. The FAN did NOT come on. I looked up on line and got confused with possible causes, Sensor, PCM, TIPM, Fan Relay, Whole fan.... A friend told me about the fan clutch....I could not find that it has one.
Next I ordered a code reader that gave me a P2181 code that is very generic for cooling system problems. I am think about ordering a new Fan Assembly. about $120 online and $450 Mopar. So....my questions:
1. Should I start by changing the sensor or the whole fan assembly. I see the temperature is being sensed I doubt sensor is the problem.
2. IMy car did not come with a tow package and I put a hitch on at a local shop. Should I put in a HD radiator and fan or is there such an animal out there anyways....
Thank you in advance for helping. I am not a mechanic but I do fix people (doctor ).