|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-26-2021 08:21 PM|
|06-26-2021 07:16 PM|
|RobGADV||Turns out it's just one motor powering the seat track. There's a screw mechanism in each track, and the one in the left-side rail (closest to the door) was stripped or something and wouldn't move.|
|06-24-2021 02:17 AM|
|06-23-2021 01:46 PM|
|Dust Devil||By the way, although first generation Durango seat rails look like they mount the same way as WJ seat rails, they are actually wider and longer. I'm going to do more research to see if a Durango seat rail could be narrowed and shortened. If I can't find anything, some other day I'm going to tear everything apart to see if I can make something work.|
|06-22-2021 08:53 PM|
|xcaliber81||Put some grease on those threaded rods inside the seat rails too are some hard to get ones. Did that on my overland last month and made a huge difference.|
|06-22-2021 07:20 PM|
|Eunit1979||At the same problem on my 2000 WJ Limited. Front driver seat won't go forward or backward was ready to rip the whole seat out finally took a small Hammer tapped the motor and it started working I guess it was just frozen up|
|06-22-2021 06:47 PM|
Tomorrow I'm going to try to see if Dodge Durango manual front seat tracks bolt up to a WJ floor pan. If successful, the tracks will be a basis for a swap to nearly brand new, entirely manual leather seats that fold flat.
I don't think Daimler is to blame, I think the WJ chassis was either a Chrysler design or even AMC's last gasp. Wikipedia said something like that and the timeline makes sense, WJ was unveiled when things were changing so obviously it was designed before that.
I'm not sure of the Durango's origins, it would be great if they borrowed a lot from the WJ because that would give another source of oem style upgrades and parts. Looking at the two in a wrecking yard, the seat tracks seem to bolt to the floor pan in a similar way but I really need to get a Durango track and hold it up to a WJ floor pan to see if it fits or can be adapted.
|06-22-2021 04:39 PM|
SCORE!!!!! I got the seat out without destroying anything!
I was able to get to the left rear bolt. It took like 20 minutes to remove, 1/4 turn at a time. Once done, I hit the switch and the seat moved forward enough to get to the other bolt. It's something in that left track that is jammed.
So now the seat is out and there's a ton of gross crap under it (of course). I'll clean that out in a bit, then decide how to proceed with the seat track.
Meanwhile, my Rock Auto orders are due on Friday so I can replace the valve cover gaskets and then continue figuring out the misfires. Might be fuel injectors.
|06-22-2021 03:24 PM|
I took a quick look at that video. I understand the point. Then I went to look at the spare, working frame that I do have. Jeep wisely (note: sarcasm) pointed that square hole for manual adjustment the OTHER direction, towards the tunnel where it's impossible to reach. That's for the fore/aft height motors... the rear one of which is what I need to access the rear bolts. That or sliding the seat forward. The up/down motors both work, but they don't actuate their own screw mechanisms. I have to assume there's probably a plastic part inside them that has broken.
For sliding forward, there is a single motor that operates both sides, and it runs a screw type mechanism. The right side works; the left side tries to work but does not. It will move maybe 1/8" after some fiddling. I've drowned the whole track in WD40 and it helped a tiny amount. I'm hoping maybe after sitting a while, it will help more, but I'm not optimistic.
I can reach three of the four nuts that told the seat itself to the power track. If I could reach all four, I could remove the seat and be able to come at the track from above. Grrr.
What's more, is I THINK I could reach the outer rear bracket enough to get a sawzall blade in there, but I can't get to the inner one. This is because the rear of the seat is in its lowest position. If it were higher, I'd be in much better shape and even the sawzall idea wouldn't be necessary.
Examining my working frame some more, it's clear that this thing was never intended to be disassembled. If I run out of ideas, I may end up having to cut it into pieces as best I can. That would suck since my existing, working frame is a "memory" model will full power function (including the seatback) which this Laredo doesn't have; so I'll still have to repair or replace this frame once I can get it out.
Clearly whoever designed this thing never gave any thought to how to remove the seat if the track failed. Probably due to Diamler's slave-driving and raping of Chrysler during their ownership.
|06-22-2021 01:52 PM|
This one shows manually adjusting a GMC track using a drill. I'm not sure if that translates to Jeep tracks but not all of the tricks are hot-wiring it from a drill battery.
|06-22-2021 01:30 PM|
|xcaliber81||Its a pain but with patience the seat will come out with it in a goofy non powered spot|
|06-22-2021 12:41 PM|
|RobGADV||As I said before, the seat has power. One motor works; the other does not.|
|06-22-2021 12:24 PM|
did you check the driver seat connector is plugged in? under seat
Sorry I love easy simple CHEAP things first its My positive attitude.
Spent enough time repairing police auction vehicles nothing surprises me.
|06-22-2021 12:12 PM|
|RobGADV||Thanks, I went looking... all the "tricks" involve hot-wiring the seat to a battery from a drill. But in my case, the motor doesn't work and the seat won't slide. I tried for videos like that, but nothing. Other Googling hasn't helped.|
|06-22-2021 11:42 AM|
I haven't watched one yet but I've seen videos about getting seats out at self serve salvage yards where there is no power to move them.
Those might show you a technique that will work for you.
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