|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-17-2021 06:47 AM|
Originally Posted by calisk8er1080 View Post
|06-15-2021 07:38 PM|
I have found that pre-bled does not entirely result in an air-free unit upon purchase. Some aftermarket master and clutch units have a procedure for drilling a relief hole in the body behind the seals as air does microscopically get past the main seal and make operation harder. Air can easily be left in a unit during production as all units are not QC checked on the way out the door. Pays to assume that air is there and ladder-bleed the assembled master/slave prior to install.
As to self-bleeding? Not that I know of. They are either sealed, with a non-functional stub where a bleeder would have been, or there is a bleeder port for air purge before/after install. You bleed the assembled unit by placing the master on top of a ladder and letting the slave hang below. Unscrew the master cap and SLOWLY push the slave rod in. Bubbles will naturally rise into the master and you add fluid to compensate as it fills downward. Twisting the slave and line helps find the tiny hiding bubbles that will be problematic after install. And, of course, don't spill fluid from the master!
|06-15-2021 06:56 PM|
Originally Posted by gutthans View Post
|06-14-2021 10:34 AM|
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
NOTE: Last install I did I found the pre-packaged/pre-bled slave had air and needed to be bled before install. Yours sounds good though...but just in case it acts funny...
|06-14-2021 10:04 AM|
|Siva283||All my slaves have been like that. The rod needs some preload so it doesnt fall out like a limp err umm you know.|
|06-10-2021 09:53 AM|
So far so good. Haven't noticed any ill effects as of yet. I've been wanting to upgrade to a new trans and clutch soon anyway....so if something happens, no big deal.
Thanks for the replies.
|06-05-2021 01:48 PM|
I had this issue exactly the same issue last year. The slave shaft was so long I had to wrangle it to get the bolts started.
It didn’t do that with the one that was in it
Sounds like a thing. A disease clutch-slave/19
|06-05-2021 09:14 AM|
Not really 100% sure what should be done about the rod being too long/if it will affect anything, but I would imagine the extra pressure could cause your clutch to slip/wear prematurely. Don't quote me on that though.
However I can tell you, with the engine off, the clutch has nothing to with with whether or not you can shift through gears. Either the teeth are aligned enough to allow it to slip in gear, or not. Hence why rocking the vehicle helped.
As far as the clutch engaging on its own while wheeling, that sound like the hydraulic system was losing pressure somehow. Think of it as similar to pushing on a brake pedal and it slowly sinking to the floor. Could be air in the system, could be a leak. Either way, changing out the whole assembly as you did should fix the issue.
|06-03-2021 09:21 AM|
|timatoe||Sounds normal to me. You should be able to easily shift through all the gears with the engine off.|
|05-30-2021 02:25 PM|
Slave Cylinder Rod
I could just be overthinking this, but curiosity has the best of me. I searched a bit and only found one result that described my issue.
I replaced the master and slave cylinder due to the issue described further below with a pre-bled one. When I installed the slave cylinder into the trans, the push rod made contact to the fork before the cylinder sat flush. So I pushed it in with some force to retract the rod and threaded the bolts. Will that little extra bit of force do much to the clutch fork and TOB? Would cracking the bleeder release any excess fluid/pressure and solve it? Or am I just worrying about nothing?
Only reason I question it is before I couldn't shift the trans into all but maybe one or two gears with the engine off and stationary, unless I pressed the pedal and maybe a bit of a rock back. Now I can do it with ease in all gears, even reverse, without the pedal. That's something new to me, so either thats how it's how it's suppose to be and my old hydraulics were on the way out when I got the Jeep, or my wild theory is the clutch fork might be being pushed slightly in allowing a slight bit of play in the cltuch/trans. That or my trans is junk...which I already know some synchos are going hating life.
Clutch doesn't seem to drag, though I've only driven it around the block, kinda negating my theory. I don't know. I'm probably overthinking it and it's fine. Below is the problem I had which is why I replaced it. At the current time of this post I haven't driven it enough to see if it is still doing it because of how random it is.
95 Wrangler was randomly "releasing" the clutch pressure when the pedal was depressed or if I held it down for a length of time. Basically made getting off Hole In the Rock trail a little more intense. Symptoms: push clutch pedal, clutch disengaged, then when pedal is depressed there is a pop that I feel in the pedal and the clutch disc engages even with the pedal still being pushed down.
I assumed air in the lines from all the crazy wheeling. Tried a quick bleed and didn't fix it. Didn't see any fluid loss, or leaks and I assumed internally the hydraulic unit was junk and was allowing a fluid bypass at random times. Either that or something going on with the pressure plate, fork, or TOB.
That's my story.