|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-14-2021 12:50 PM|
I always hate it when I go through all the right steps before ordering parts/upgrades and crap doesn't work or needs to be modified. It's always... research until I'm happy, take part our of box, prep fit, modify part to actually fit, cuss at it a lot, modify some more, lol...
|06-13-2021 12:54 PM|
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
LOL I can't argue with you there! There is just so much of it out there, some of it is unavoidable i.e. Crown/Omix (which is not always that CHEEP$). I try to thread the needle and find a deal where I can by researching etc., but clearly I failed this one. The CRT dizzy's had multiple happy customers posting on forums...but it could also just be the owner and his buddies making the posts! The deeper I dove, the less optimum the HEI seemed to be anyways. I am to the point of negligible return in performance from this upgrade anyways since I already have the sniper and team rush on a freshly rebuilt engine.
Originally Posted by scooby533 View Post
I suppose I did improve my wiring as I found the charge wire from the alt to batt post was about to break, so I replaced the charge wire with a 10 gauge wire and crimped new ring terminals. Of course, as things go I also managed to pop the top off the purge valve on my charcoal can and the diaphragm got lost. Nothing 30 bucks can't fix!
Anyone see an issue with my wiring loom running along the heater hoses? The stock configuration was along the valve cover, I tried using some brackets. But frankly this seems the best way to keep wiring away from spark plug wires.
|06-13-2021 08:36 AM|
I don’t want to pile on here, but I’m with Matt.
Do the team rush upgrade with large cap & rotor and do the Ford coil upgrade. I will suggest using the HEI module to run the setup though. It works really well. My caveat to this; I don’t know how different from stock that Sniper set up is. With the BBD in place the HEI module with the Ford E-core coil runs the carbureted engine very smoothly with a bright blue spark. YMMV of course but you’ve got the module already, gut the motorcraft module and use it as a heat sink. Find an e-core coil in the junkyard for 5$ with the bracket and I think you’ll be happy. Just use good modules and not those Chicom ones. I’d say find one in the junkyard while picking a coil.
|06-13-2021 08:06 AM|
I think the moral of this story is when you buy chit cheap, you get cheap chit.
|06-12-2021 08:50 AM|
Update, reinstalled Motorcraft team rush setup. Fired up first turn of the key. HEI goes bye bye. I am not sure what the issue was, but it wasn't something I did
Either way, I'm not sure HEI would be good for me as I need my jeep to start without fail in remote areas potentially in sub-zero temps.
I think the thing that pisses me off most about this is the HEI could have been installed without cutting any wires, but the instructions all state the bulkhead wire to the module is perfect so I cut my harness...
I appreciate everyone's input. I have pretty sour grapes over this experience, but everyone's input is very appreciated. I've wasted money before on projects, but generally I see the project through. Hopefully the CRT people get in touch for me to return.
|06-12-2021 05:40 AM|
The battery also checked out under load test at advance. I am curious if people tend to get a battery with larger cranking amps with the HEI as it seems it would help.
I think my next course of action is to buy a coil to test if they will let me return it at auto zone. People say the coils are finicky, or can be, but how likely is it to be bad out of the box even as a cheapie? I tested primary and secondary resistance and the coil tested good.
|06-12-2021 05:28 AM|
|cjhuntnfool||Hi John, yes that is how the tach wire runs to my gauge from sniper. I have a speedhut cluster with the tach. Everything worked before I pulled the dizzy. Rpm is still showing on the holley.|
|06-12-2021 04:22 AM|
Are you using an OEM tach?
Are you using it wired like this:
Did you wire in the tach like this before?
|06-11-2021 05:16 PM|
|cjhuntnfool||Tried a different battery with same result. Weak Azzz spark. I went against my better judgment installing a gm part and this is what I get. Where are all the HEI acolytes? Because this is some BS. I never had an issue with the Motorcraft ignition. This is what I get.|
|06-11-2021 02:27 PM|
New module made no difference. I am getting WEAK spark with good ground. Everything else seems to be in order. So I trace it back from the spark. Cap and rotor are first in line I suppose since I know there is power coming in. Other than that, does this part have anything to do with spark? It is the only thing in the dizzy I have not swapped or tested.
I feel like I must be at the end of whatever the issue is...
|06-11-2021 01:53 PM|
Ok so I tested the spark while cranking and got a weak orange spark. Parts store couldn't test module but I bought a new one so will see if that is the issue and if not will return. Other than the module, I am not sure what else to test/look at.
Plugs are new autolite and gapped to .045.
|06-10-2021 09:43 PM|
|06-10-2021 09:34 PM|
Seems like your on the right path. Have the module tested.
|06-10-2021 09:17 PM|
|cjhuntnfool||I should also say, initially I tried wiring straight from the OEM coil wire at the bulk head before the resistor. This obviously did not work, which is how I ended up down the relay rabbit hole. From all my research and reading Jeephammer's write ups, seems like the best way to hook it up which is why I am stumped.|
|06-10-2021 09:09 PM|
Originally Posted by cjoffroad View Post
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