|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-28-2021 09:25 PM|
|nwoods||Well, perhaps it’s my clean living or good looks, but I checked the front diff bushings, and they were pretty. Looked darn near new, and very intact. Fresh black rubber. I was happy to see that.|
|06-28-2021 12:42 PM|
Originally Posted by Billbo1970 View Post
I just fixed a clunk from the rear that we’ve had for years. Turned out to be the driveshaft.
|06-23-2021 11:38 AM|
|kbwk||I was surprised the FSM would suggest that approach, but I just checked and it does detail disconnecting the UCA, removing the strut clevis, removing the axle, then servicing the bushings. I removed the bushings from mine using an air hammer with the differential on the bench and there was cursing involved, I imagine there would be more cursing if I was doing it overhead while laying down under the vehicle.|
|06-19-2021 01:20 AM|
|underscore||Officially, that's how the front diff bushings are done. But you don't need to do it that way.|
|06-18-2021 05:56 PM|
|nwoods||You lost me on having to remove the struts. Why do I have to remove the struts? For what its worth, I am getting pretty fast at removing the struts, and can have them both out in under an hour. Just not sure why I would need to, again?|
|06-18-2021 05:39 PM|
|underscore||Well yeah everyone's situation and Jeep is different, but in terms of DIY jobs these are pretty easy. If someone has a crusty rust bucket and is 90 they're going to have a hard time doing an oil change. That doesn't make oil changes difficult for everyone else though, so I wouldn't say doing an oil change is a hard job.|
|06-18-2021 01:03 PM|
Originally Posted by underscore View Post
Originally Posted by underscore View Post
|06-17-2021 06:04 PM|
You don't need to do all that to replace the bushings. Drive the Jeep on ramps. Unbolt the driveshaft, unhook the breather, unplug the eLSD actuator if you have QDII. Place jack stands on each side of the diff, slightly below it. Unbolt the diff, support it on the jack stands so it's not hanging by the CV's and rotate it so it's now upside down with the input facing the front of the Jeep. Cut out the old bushings, I used an air hammer and a hacksaw. Press in the new bushings, I used a balljoint press. Install is the reverse of removal.
Accessing the strut tops is like 3 bolts to get the overflow or fuse box out of the way. It takes maybe 30 seconds, it's not difficult.
|06-17-2021 12:34 PM|
Originally Posted by nwoods View Post
I'm having him change my struts too. I bought them already, planning to do it myself... but when I popped the hood open and couldn't see the top mounts I went on line and watched some vids... this looks like another job where the amount of time it takes isn't worth it. Leave it to Jeep to make you remove the radiator overflow & fuse relay boxes to access strut mounts!
|06-17-2021 11:42 AM|
I haven't pulled of the skids to look under there yet, but I did find a great video on how to replace those bushings... Looks like quite a job. I only have about half those tools
|06-16-2021 10:56 AM|
|Billbo1970||Have you checked your differential bushings? There's one front-center, one drivers side, and one passenger side. If the front bushing is worn it could appear to be coming from the passenger side, if the sound/vibration is travelling through the connections. The passenger side bushing would definitely come from that side. Or it could be both. Get under there with a bright flashlight and look.|
|06-14-2021 12:01 PM|
|Tiki Bob||I installed a rough country 3.5" lift to my 2010 islander it was fine for at least 8 months drien multiple trips to WA state ,one day I got home and pulled into my property than backed up and heard a clunk from driver's side thought my front gears were going . tested everything , shifted fine drives perfect just that clunk.as the lower sway bar bushings are stock with only 50k miles I'm going to replace them with something more heavy duty im going to attribute it to the new height geometry will update later|
|06-14-2021 10:35 AM|
|nwoods||Perhaps now that there are some miles on it, I should disassemble it and try cranking that top nut down further?|
|06-14-2021 10:33 AM|
The spring height nearly exceeded the height of the strut with the top bracket on it. In order to get the top nut on, I had to push hard to compress the spring. I then used a spring compressor and cranked the spring down so that I could thread the top nut down.
My first attempt, I ran the nut down so that the threads of the strut came past it, but no further. I was advised (here online) to run that nut down as far as it will go, so I pulled it back out, attached the spring compressor and cranked the spring down until I thought it would explode, and then ran the top nut down with an impact until I couldn't get it to go any further. At that point, the length of the top of the strut stuck out through the nut about the same as the OEM strut assembly I had removed off the truck. The spring was so tightly compressed, I had difficulty removing the spring compressor!
Not sure that answers your question, but the best I can say is that I think the nut is installed as far down as it can go.
|06-14-2021 02:04 AM|
|underscore||When you put the struts together, did you tighten the nut down with the spring loose or with it pressing on the mount?|
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