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Thread: Which ring and pinion brand ? Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-24-2021 01:58 AM
YJ40 Yukon and Alloy USA make a locking hub kit for YJs, but it is very expensive ! A D44 swap is cheaper...
05-23-2021 11:12 PM
80cj
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waternut View Post
Are locking hubs really a fuse on a D30 though? My buddy had a broken R&P on his CJ7's D30. Even if they are, that would be a considerable expense on a YJ D30 with unit bearings.
Thats right. YJ's don't have hubs. Duh. Too much CJ...
But there are some brands of hubs that are stronger than others. FWIW
05-23-2021 06:34 PM
Waternut
Quote:
Originally Posted by 80cj View Post
Especially if running a D30, perhaps the resolution is to use a locking hub in the front axle that will act as a fuse. A lot cheaper and less labor intensive than replacing gear sets. You could carry a spare and replace hubs on the trail if you blow one.
Are locking hubs really a fuse on a D30 though? My buddy had a broken R&P on his CJ7's D30. Even if they are, that would be a considerable expense on a YJ D30 with unit bearings.
05-23-2021 02:20 PM
80cj Especially if running a D30, perhaps the resolution is to use a locking hub in the front axle that will act as a fuse. A lot cheaper and less labor intensive than replacing gear sets. You could carry a spare and replace hubs on the trail if you blow one.
05-23-2021 11:36 AM
Waternut
Quote:
Originally Posted by YJ40 View Post
Hi,
thats right, i have a D30HP in my YJ, and thats the picture i made. I have to replace r&p (and its ordered (summitracing Motive Gear,-> fast delivery and easy to get...)) that i can use my Jeep on the summer events. But same to you i think about an axle swap. Since some weeks i work on a D44 standart rotation and for this D44 iŽll pic the most reliable parts without bust the budget. So when the Yukon is more durable then i would spend more money but when theres no advantage then i will use the "cheaper" G2 or Dana ( not the SVL ). After the season iŽll change to the d44
Thanks for you experience to decide this...
I agree with your logic. If there are events in the near future, change the gearset now and plan for an axle swap in the near future. Maybe keep your eyes on the used market. If it's possible, maybe you could sell your axle complete and ready to bolt in to someone else. I didn't have that luxury and have a fair amount of money in my old axle ready for metal scrap.
05-23-2021 08:17 AM
YJ40 Hi,
thats right, i have a D30HP in my YJ, and thats the picture i made. I have to replace r&p (and its ordered (summitracing Motive Gear,-> fast delivery and easy to get...)) that i can use my Jeep on the summer events. But same to you i think about an axle swap. Since some weeks i work on a D44 standart rotation and for this D44 iŽll pic the most reliable parts without bust the budget. So when the Yukon is more durable then i would spend more money but when theres no advantage then i will use the "cheaper" G2 or Dana ( not the SVL ). After the season iŽll change to the d44
Thanks for you experience to decide this...
05-23-2021 07:57 AM
222Doc even stock power breaks d30s. Dont take all that much power when its say 90:1 to break anything really. just get one tire in a bind and dont stop.

d30s break on 35s... rather common issue d44 will hold the 35s better JK Gear set is the strongest of the d44s. But being in clubs i see they same thing in D44 even with near a 9" ring. 37s its at red line really, but people want 40s but dont want to step up to 1 tons $$$$$$. 40s on a d44 even with all the best junk RCVs and axles and trusses and on and on still wont touch a d60 step up to the new Dana 60 UD60 and that is some real beef for stock. Biggest U joint in any 60. Ball joint is massive. better clearance tighter housing.Dana makes it a bolt on for jk junk....but Jk dana UD set cost near what a jeep used would cost... might as well build a buggy and toss the jeep. Better yet buy a used Buggy someone is done wheeling.
05-23-2021 07:35 AM
Waternut Using a hefty chunk of generality, bigger tires are harder on axles while bigger engine power is harder on ring and pinions. If you already broke your ring and pinion on your D30, you will most likely break them again so stay away from the cheaper gears. Most gear manufacturers have an "economy line" where they can sell slightly lower quality gears at a discount price for the people who aren't towing or pushing their gearsets. Dana SVL is that economy line for Dana.

I also broke a R&P on 35" tires with my V8. I also broke the ring gear and not the pinion. With an 8.8 rear and D30 front with chromo axles, your weakest link is your R&P. I thought long and hard about replacing gears in my D30 but ultimately chose to swap the front axle since I knew it would just happen again. I didn't see anyone else say it but if you have a YJ D30, you have reverse rotation gears.
05-23-2021 07:15 AM
fishadventure I would just buy the Dana
05-23-2021 02:50 AM
YJ40 What is with Dana SVL? Found them on Rockauto...Dana and Dana SVL
And is Yukon (385$) worth the price compared to others G2 / Dana ~200$ ?
05-22-2021 04:55 PM
80cj
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep_boy02 View Post
More teeth on the pinion means a smaller pinion which equates to less strength. As long as they're a reputable brand(Nitro, Dana, US gear, Yukon, G2) you're safe. No names made in India, China, etc are just paper weights. I had a set made off shore once and they wouldn't even set up right. Never tried them on the street or trail cause they wouldn't produce a good contact pattern. Played with them everyday for 2 weeks, ordered a set from US gear and they set right up in 30 mins.

Sent from my SM-A015A using Tapatalk
More teeth on the pinon can also mean more pinion tooth area in contact with the ring gear but a smaller diameter pinion head means less pinion teeth in contact with the ring gear. Things like pinion offset come into play also which is where a 9" Ford gains some of its strength in addition to having a pinion straddle bearing to control pinion deflection.
05-22-2021 03:47 PM
jeep_boy02 More teeth on the pinion means a smaller pinion which equates to less strength. As long as they're a reputable brand(Nitro, Dana, US gear, Yukon, G2) you're safe. No names made in India, China, etc are just paper weights. I had a set made off shore once and they wouldn't even set up right. Never tried them on the street or trail cause they wouldn't produce a good contact pattern. Played with them everyday for 2 weeks, ordered a set from US gear and they set right up in 30 mins.

Sent from my SM-A015A using Tapatalk
05-22-2021 01:56 PM
calisk8er1080
Quote:
Originally Posted by YJ40 View Post
I will build a D44 front for my YJ. Which ring and pinion brand would you recommend ? In my old D30HP i had 3 different brands and i think there was no difference, they all lost teeths...
I plan 4.88 gears standart rotation.
Thanks for you advice.
I put G2s in my JK about 4 or 5 years ago. Zero problems between then and now. Honestly as long as you get them set up properly, and don't wheel with a lead foot, you should be fine with whatever brand you go with

Quote:
Originally Posted by YJ40 View Post
Next question, i found r&p with 4.88 and 4.89, means 9:44 and 8:39 teeths. I would think more teeths on the pinion means more contact with ringgearteeths...? right..? more durability?
exactly right. the more contact area you have between the gears, the stronger. which is why super low gearing usually results in a weaker pinion gear.
05-22-2021 01:22 PM
80cj My preference would be Dana Spicer. I had a Jeep with a Dana 27 front and Dana 44 rear. The front was 39/8 and the rear was 44/9. Apparently Dana decided that those combinations are best for those ring and pinion sizes.
05-22-2021 09:09 AM
YJ40 Next question, i found r&p with 4.88 and 4.89, means 9:44 and 8:39 teeths. I would think more teeths on the pinion means more contact with ringgearteeths...? right..? more durability?
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