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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-28-2021 08:52 AM
superj works great on small mower trailers and rvs, too. that's what i used the one on my wrangler for
05-27-2021 03:22 PM
Fourspeedman Today I launched the boat. It's just a 15ft Whaler but it's a swell fishing machine. There were cars parked in my way at the sneak spot but having the front hitch made it EZPZ. I should have done this years ago! What a pleasure to do it that way! I even had an audience, the Dockmaster and some fellow boaters where waiting to see the front hitch in action. They were not disappointed. I pushed the boat right around the cars and angled it in easy as can be. If ANYONE has trouble with backing a trailer down a ramp- you gotta try this.
05-22-2021 04:33 AM
MaskedMallard You can also get a Curt license plate mount, for your front receiver.

05-19-2021 11:27 AM
phantomrt I remember fishing the bolts through but I do not remember any unusual difficulty in doing so. Hmm. Never rely on brain to remember stuff. I'm glad you got it done. I don't use my front hitch often, but when I do....
05-18-2021 05:51 PM
Fourspeedman All done. Just a heads-up: the CURT instructions were very, very, wrong. First, they wanted 1/2" spacers under the front where you must drill a 1/2" hole. I went and made spacers and they caused the hitch to not sit flat to the frame. They also made the hitch point downward. By removing the spacers the hitch sat nice and flat along the frame like it should. And since I didn't need the spacers, I also didn't need the long grade 8 carriage bolts I had to order. The short ones left over from the rear hitch would have worked fine. Then, Curt says to fish those bolts and washers in through the frame. Yeah, right. On the pass side I was able to cut open an existing hole to get the bolt and washer through. Then I pulled them into place with the fish-wire without much drama. BUT. On the driver side- I tried the same thing. But something kept snagging the parts. I finally cut an access hole right in front of where the 1/2" hole got drilled. That is when I saw that there is a reinforcing bracket for the PS box inside the frame. NOTHING is getting past it. That was so in the way I still had a hard time getting the bolt into position even when the new hole was only an inch away. So after that nightmare I bolted up the hitch with the 1/2" bolts with the flange head nuts. Then I replaced the sway bar, new bushings, and new end links. The sway bar bolts also attach the hitch. It all fell into place OK without the spacers. I cut a hole in the air dam and the hitch sticks out just right. The hoops are hidden behind the air dam. All this was a major headache but now I am very happy. It even looks cool.
05-12-2021 11:31 AM
Originally Posted by axlaxl View Post
Also, last thing, since you are in NYC the D ring in the front will greatly influence people bumping into you when parallel parking.
Hey, with a hitch ball sticking out ten inches on the front and back- let em' hit me!!!!
05-12-2021 11:21 AM
Originally Posted by 222Doc View Post
Dorman is hit or miss. China. But they have came up with repair stuff that well its better then were ever jeep has stuff made right now. Like say that issue with 3.6s that as well kinda became an orphan. 13 or so and older 3.6 the issue is the the spring built into the oil filter area that is kinda a anti back flow valve. Its part of the whole assembly, just like a new one right now. Those first design that sprig retains its self in the thinnest pastic one might create , they tended to fall apart when removing the oil cap the spring might fly out. Later designs the unit cracks< never addressed yet. Dorman makes a repair for the older design 3.6 that is low cost and snaps right where it breaks off what 20$ and easy pezzy or take the whole Intake off plenum to even get to it.

Dorman just came out with an Alloy version of the 3.6s coolant cross over pipe. Stock is plastic. Now if they would do the thermostats house that bolts to that in alloy? should wont cost much more and would be built proof where you need it like cooling. Now this stuff is made in China, but compared to stock. Yea so where is that something can made worse? Just so i know...
I've had some hits with Dorman, but mostly misses. An example are the coolant elbows for the General Motors 3800 engine. Dorman makes some aluminum ones, which is great. BUT THEY PUT THE WRONG SIZE FRICKEN O-RINGS ON THEM AND THEY STILL DON'T SEAL!!!!!!!

The early 2000's era civics--its not uncommon for the hood release handle to break. So, it calls for a new handle/cable assembly and Dorman makes one. It works good until you have to do that 180 degree turn near the hood latch. The cable doesn't operate smoothly when bending it in such a radius but the original 15 year old Honda one does. You can open the hood, but the cable won't retract. So, I heat up the the dorman handle, pull the plastic off of it and melt it onto the original Honda cable.

If I sat here and thought about it enough, I could write a book about how Dorman has failed me.

The Ford 4.6 intake manifolds-- Or was it the 5.4? Anyway, there are unused coolant ports on that aluminum crossover pipe that you simply plug off with their included rubber caps, WHICH TURN OUT TO BE UNSUITABLE FOR PRESSURE APPLICATIONS.

Anyway, I'll stop now. On a positive note, I replaced a severely cracked up exhaust manifold on an Equinox with a Dorman unit. I bought it, replaced it, and when I was done with it and showing the customer the old one, BAM! A big gigantic Dorman logo on the old one. Which I returned and got my money back for it.
05-12-2021 08:14 AM
axlaxl Also, last thing, since you are in NYC the D ring in the front will greatly influence people bumping into you when parallel parking.
05-11-2021 06:03 PM
Originally Posted by Fourspeedman View Post
I never do that kind of stuff so I think I will leave the loops in the dam alone. I cut the hole for the hitch and the loops are hidden right behind the dam. "If needed", the dam bends up out of the way no problem.
Yup, if you need the front as a recovery point just get a D ring shackle, seen them as cheap as $20. I keep one under the back seat for the rear receiver just in case.
05-11-2021 04:34 PM
Fourspeedman I never do that kind of stuff so I think I will leave the loops in the dam alone. I cut the hole for the hitch and the loops are hidden right behind the dam. "If needed", the dam bends up out of the way no problem.
05-11-2021 02:40 PM
axlaxl I have that installed on my 00 XJ and use for recovery points as well as a winch on a plate since I don't want a winch on 24/7. Worked well winching people out and myself out. Only thing was cutting holes in the air dam for the recovery point loops.
05-11-2021 08:34 AM
Fourspeedman The parts came to $19.49 on Fleabay. That is what I submitted to RockAuto. A refund to my PayPal was $19.49. But the RA refund spelled out the Fleabay invoice amount of $17.50 + 1.59 = 19.49. HUH?!? How did they know? Is Big Brother watching?!?
05-10-2021 07:07 PM
superj I did something hing very similar on my old Nissan frontier. Got a new universal hitch in the clearance aisle at Walmart for 25 bucks but no hardware. Used left over stuff from other hitch kits and it worked great
05-10-2021 01:30 PM
Fourspeedman Well, I called CURT and they gave me the part number for the bag of hardware. But they don't sell that to the public and I have to track it down myself. NO luck with that at all. They can't even sell me the whole hitch because they are out of stock. also third-party sells and I remember my rear mounted hitch came direct from CURT. Did I get the last 31084 on the planet? Lots of vendors are listing it as "discontinued". So has a "box of parts" and can whip up the parts bag - for $75. So I re-evaluated the situation and this is what I decided. I keep everything and I had a few of those square hole washers that go inside the frame left over from my rear hitch install. I did not have the 1/2" spacers that go between the hitch and the frame. I did have some 1/4" thick steel plates and I was able to drill some 1/2" holes in those. Two stacked up equal the 1/2" spacers. I had some 1/2" grade 8 carriage bolts but they were too short. The original M10 bolts were also too short. But I found both the right length 1/2" and M10 grade 8 bolts on Fleabay. I ordered those and asked RockAuto to re-imburse me for the hardware. They agreed. So now I have all the fasteners on the way. I have all the washer/spacers. I even have one of those "fishing" wires to get the bolts into the frame holes. That is when I realized there are NO holes in the frame big enough to get the square hole washers inside. I was not about to remove the front bumper only to find there is no access there either. OK, out comes the Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel. I enlarged the biggest holes I could find and now the washers will fit. Now I wait for the mailman to bring me the bolts.
05-10-2021 11:43 AM
Originally Posted by Fourspeedman View Post
Well, it arrived. And was missing ALL hardware.
Have a U-Haul nearby ? They should have a big box of leftover hitch install hardware. All you really can't get at the hardware store is the inside the frame rail square plates.
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