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Body mount nut and cage access

3K views 17 replies 5 participants last post by  STJP 
#1 ·
There has been lots of good discussion regarding removing body mount bolts and replacing the rubber mounts. I am interested in how the following might be approached or if anyone has dealt with a similar situation.

So I am ready to remove the body. My body is in really good condition (rust only under front roll bar mounts), but when using a standard ratchet (no breaker bar etc) several of my body mount bolts are spinning. I assume the nut cages have rusted and can no longer "hold" the captive nut. To remove the body I will need to cut the bolts. When I take this necessary step, I will have spinning bolts in the captive cage of the body.

It would seem to me that for several of these enclosed locations a permanent access could be made inside the body that would not weaken the mount area of the body and provide access to the captive nut and its cage/housing. Possibly this would allow the captive nut assembly to be replaced and then kept rust free with an occasional spray of cavity wax etc.

Lastly would not want this to be a hack job. Has anyone accessed body bolt nuts in this way?

JS
 
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#2 ·
Captive Nut/ Body Mount

I had tried to remove my body mount bolts with an air gun...most captive nuts spun in their cages...had I used penetrating oil and a breaker bar I might have been more successful...

I ended up using a reciprocating saw to cut out off the body bolts.

@ The rear most body mount, I cut out a side of the cages with a 3" metal disc to expose the captive nuts. Then I used a flat pry bar as leverage and was able to remove the body bolt and captive nut.

After replacing the body mounts I was able to re thread the captive nuts and reinstalled with the aid of the flat pry bar.

@ Some of the other cages, I had to cut out a slit to gain access, and replaced the captive nuts with std nuts/thick fender washers (with a wrench to hold the std nut in place), or re used the captive nuts with the pry bar method.

@ the front body mount under the grill, I had welded a piece of 12ga steel over the rusted out hole in the frame and re drilled the correct size hole for the body bolt.

Hope this helps...
 
#6 ·
I had tried to remove my body mount bolts with an air gun...most captive nuts spun in their cages...had I used penetrating oil and a breaker bar I might have been more successful...

I ended up using a reciprocating saw to cut out off the body bolts.

@ The rear most body mount, I cut out a side of the cages with a 3" metal disc to expose the captive nuts. Then I used a flat pry bar as leverage and was able to remove the body bolt and captive nut.

After replacing the body mounts I was able to re thread the captive nuts and reinstalled with the aid of the flat pry bar.

@ Some of the other cages, I had to cut out a slit to gain access, and replaced the captive nuts with std nuts/thick fender washers (with a wrench to hold the std nut in place), or re used the captive nuts with the pry bar method.

@ the front body mount under the grill, I had welded a piece of 12ga steel over the rusted out hole in the frame and re drilled the correct size hole for the body bolt.

Hope this helps...
Low Country, It does help. I will have to do much the same. I hope to find a away to expand on what you have accomplished. It is good to know how I can get access. After you cut to gain access did you then weld it all back? Have you had any issues?

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

JS
 
#5 ·
Heres a thought. Before you go and cut the bolts off, which will create the next problem, what about drilling a 1/4" hole thru the side of the support about a 1/2" off of center of the bolt. Then take a steel rod or stout screwdriver and stick it thru to block the captured nut from rotating, and put your breaker bar on the bolt. If their rusted bad they still may snap but if not you may get lucky.
 
#8 ·
Well one thing is you could then drill straight above it into the floor to let you know the exact location for an access of some type, like a 1" plastic plug. Then you could use a washer and a hex nut. I replaced / rebuilt several during my restomod with my tub off. If you tell me which ones are giving you issues I may have a pic to show you how I repaired mine.
 
#10 ·
Captive Nut/ Body Mount

JS,

I replaced all 4 floor pans (Key Parts). That process enabled me to access those areas under them.

@ The rear passenger area I welded a nut to the captive nut (sans cage assembly) and used a combo wrench to hold in place while tightening.

@ The rear most mount area I reused the captive nut (again sans the cage assembly) and left the area opened.

/Users/douglassmenzies/Desktop/Front Pass.jpeg

/Users/douglassmenzies/Desktop/Front Pass.jpeg

/Users/douglassmenzies/Desktop/IMG_7922.jpeg

Thats all I could find in my photo file...
 
#11 ·
Captive Nut/ Body Mount

JS,

I replaced all 4 floor pans (Key Parts). That process enabled me to access those areas under them.

@ The rear passenger area I welded a nut to the captive nut (sans cage assembly) and used a combo wrench to hold in place while tightening.

@ The rear most mount area I reused the captive nut (again sans the cage assembly) and left the area opened.

/Users/douglassmenzies/Desktop/Front Pass.jpeg

/Users/douglassmenzies/Desktop/Front Pass.jpeg

/Users/douglassmenzies/Desktop/IMG_7922.jpeg







Thats all I could find in my photo file...
 
#13 ·
I was cutting the front floor pan out today for more rust repair and took these photos for you to get a better look at the captive should you decide to try Renegades suggestion of drilling a hole and pinning. This captive is under the passenger seat. Hope this helps If you have access to a welder you may have to cut from the top then repair the captive and weld back a patch? If you decide to go deeper I to am using the Key parts floor pans, they make good stuff.
 

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#14 ·
CJWoodman and LowcountryTJ,

These pictures really help to let me know what I have in front of me and some ideas as to how I will approach.

I'm thinking at this point that where necessary I will need to cut to access and repair/replace nut/cage as needed then weld it up. I like the idea of having a permanent smaller hole to give access to the nut and to keep free of rust with Fluid Film or 3M cavity wax.

Thanks again for taking time to send pictures and ideas. You too Renegade.

Cheers,

JS
 
#16 ·
Heres a couple pics for reference also. The rear most mounts for mine were shot so this is a pretty extensive repair for this one. And all my bolts got copper anti-seize for future ease.



The front toe board mounts weren't too bad so I just etched the metal and then POR'd it all.


I had to rebuild the entire ends of both outer supports where the mount goes. The green plate (int. frame paint) was for added strength and to tie the two pieces together. The little pc. of angle at the end was to stop the captured nut from turning or sliding down the tube. The end of my support repair I left un-welded so I could access it later if ever needed. I did seal it to keep out dirt and water.


I had to make a new transverse support on the one side so a new cage and nut was needed also.


For the mount under the bed I just cut out a section of the support a little larger than the old cage. I bought a piece of 2" C channel at H.Depot. You can see it in the first picture but basically I welded a piece of angle at each end to keep from loosing the nut. Then made a nut from some 1/4"x1 1/2" flat stock, coated them and welded them back in. You could also access these from above and then plug them. I don't recall how the ribs fall vs. they're location.
 
#18 ·
Impressive work Renegade. Your pictures and descriptions are helpful in showing me what's inside the sheet metal I will need to access. I am fortunate that the only rust in my body is under the front roll bar mounts. I won't need to go to the extent you did, but it helps to see your process to understand.

Thank you, JS
 
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