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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-24-2021 05:59 PM
PNWGERMAN Hey guys, do we have a tech write up on suspension geometry and set up? Specifically I am looking for information on shock absorber geometry and placement on solid axle/leaf spring rigs.

I have already been doing some reading and research via Google, and I looked through the tech section here but didn't find what I wanted. I was hoping it would be a common enough question that the tech right up would be pinned at the top of the page.
So fare it sounds like on the rear axle I want the shocks mounted behind the axle because it helps a bit with dampening axle wrap. How ever I have read that its good to do one to the rear and one to the front to balance things out. Any opinions?
The shock should be mounted strait up and down for best performance over all. But it also sounded like people were saying the shock should be 90* to the axle at full compression. I also read that the shock should be leaned away from the shackles 1-2* for every few inches of lift over stock ride height. Now that assumes you know the stock ride height of your car, and are using parts made for your car when lifting it. Im using XJ springs and switching to spring over axle suspension on a DJ so Im not quite sure how to calculate the angle of the shock front to back or back to front.
If anyone knows of a good place to find clear info on shock absorber positioning Id greatly appreciate it.
Here are two places Iv found so fare.
https://trailtough.com/shock-and-shock-mount-placement/
https://www.4x4review.com/everything...ock-absorbers/
https://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/s...-leaf-springs/
05-23-2021 05:55 PM
PNWGERMAN A little more cage progress today



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr
05-23-2021 01:30 PM
PNWGERMAN I got my Rogue Fab bender a few days ago and got it all welded up, and bought some tube.
The first hoop I bent up was scrap, Iv never bent tubing before, but every one after that got better. Im having a bit of trouble with the hydraulic ram I bought from Harbor Freight. It says max extension is 24+" but Im only getting about 21" out of it, which means I cant get a 90* bend out of it with out doing twice the work and resetting the ram for the last 5*. Sooooooo anoying I did add fluid, but it only helped a small amount.
I think Ill order the nicer ram from Rogue Fab later on down the road. Its twice the price.



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr



This is the design Im going for, to maximize space in the cab.



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr



But I did get my three hoops bent up.


The front hoop was the last one I bent up with 4 bends, and its the one Im most happy with. Just kind popped right into place. The mid and rear hoops I didn't quite get the 90*s I wanted so the feet were a bit splayed out and I had to pull them together a bit with a strap.



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


I really wished that I had cleaned all of the rust out of the cab before starting the cage, because now I have to keep stopping to clean the areas the cage will stop me from cleaning and painting later, before I keep going with the cage. I get impatient some times especially with grinding paint and rust away.

I took a four day weekend, and Im hoping I can get close to getting the cage done by the end of Monday. I also have memorial day coming up!


I also finally got my trans mount welded up.


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


And the Prius steering showed up.



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr
05-14-2021 08:54 PM
PNWGERMAN Got the engine mounted last weekend. Im going to weld up the trans mount this weekend.
I also ordered some headers and a Prius electric steering column/system. Make sure everything fits and works together. I still have some trimming and finish welding to do on the mounts but I wanted to wait till later.
Im not sure what breaking system I should run. Im going to do a rear disk swap, but should I go hydro boost or classic booster? If hydro boost, DIY or bolt in kit?


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr
05-02-2021 05:13 PM
PNWGERMAN Some small steps forwards. Iv neen doing a lot of little body repairs and modifications, as well as getting the rear wheel arches cut out.
I also recieved my trans and got the motor bolted to it, and the engine lifted into a rough location. I ordered some parts to build my mounts, so that should happen next weekend. Oh and some shiny headers.
After I get the engine mounted in place, I think im going to tackle the electric steering project using ether a Toyota or Nissan steering column.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Made my self a little flex plate holder tool
Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr
04-10-2021 10:49 AM
PNWGERMAN
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Low2G0 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWGERMAN View Post
Thanks for info. I have a Dana 30 up front that’s a drivers side (left hand drop). Isn’t that the more common drop side?
Fixed my post....

My Mistake, yes, left side drop, so the 231 and the others I mentioned are the correct
left side drop, the 231 came in YJs and many others.
Thanks 😊
04-09-2021 10:07 AM
4Low2G0
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWGERMAN View Post
Thanks for info. I have a Dana 30 up front that’s a drivers side (left hand drop). Isn’t that the more common drop side?
Fixed my post....

My Mistake, yes, left side drop, so the 231 and the others I mentioned are the correct
left side drop, the 231 came in YJs and many others.
04-09-2021 09:28 AM
PNWGERMAN
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Low2G0 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWGERMAN View Post
Any one have transfer case recommendations?
With the front axle you have you will need it to output on the right side so the
easy choice would be a NP231 there are other options,
you could go AWD with a NP242[IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/JeepForum_2016/smilies/tango_face_surprise.png[/IMG] or a NP241OR from a Rubicon ($$)

info here:
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transfer-cases/
Thanks for info. I have a Dana 30 up front that’s a drivers side (left hand drop). Isn’t that the more common drop side?
04-08-2021 12:45 PM
4Low2G0
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWGERMAN View Post
Any one have transfer case recommendations?
With the front axle you have you will need it to output on the left side so the
easy choice would be a NP231 there are other options,
you could go AWD with a NP242 or a NP241OR from a Rubicon ($$)

info here:
https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transfer-cases/
04-07-2021 01:06 PM
PNWGERMAN Any one have transfer case recommendations?
04-07-2021 01:05 PM
PNWGERMAN I spent more money in one day yesterday then I have in a long time. I hate and love it, always makes me really nervous spending large amounts. Its not a lot for some but for most of us it is.

This engine is going to be overkill, but it was the same price as a 4.8 or 5.3 so I went for it. Plus it was very local, maybe 11 minutes from my house.

'05 LQ9 iron block from a Cadillac SUV. I also ordered a Mad Dog Trans 4L65e built for 500hp. Im not planning on running anywhere near that amount of power, just keep it stock, so I figure that trans should be strong enough for my needs.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr
04-03-2021 09:26 AM
PNWGERMAN
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Low2G0 View Post
Good to see progress, Looks good so far. great to see a DJ build

I like the idea of moving the arches back, maybe you can cut and swap side to side
for less surgery to get them in the right place.
Hope you can keep the sliding doors, My favorite feature of a DJ

4.10s with a V8 Automatic combo should work OK with 33s, some will say to go deeper.

You may want to run sway bars once you get it driving, with the steel top the DJ has
it will have more body roll than an open CJ.

Thanks man. Yeah I am going to try and keep the sliding doors. Right now its looking like they will clear the tires. So thats nice. Ones I get further along I will test fit them. Good idea on swapping the arches side to side, Ill take a look at that this weekend.



As fare as the gears go I think Im just going to have to experience them and then make my mind up. My Toyota has horrible gears for the wheel/tire size right now and I hate it.



Im planning on ruining the Antirock universal sway bars on my Jeep. The track width is also a bit wider then stock with the Xj axles and the wider tires. Should help a bit as well with stability.
04-02-2021 11:57 AM
4Low2G0 Good to see progress, Looks good so far. great to see a DJ build

I like the idea of moving the arches back, maybe you can cut and swap side to side
for less surgery to get them in the right place.
Hope you can keep the sliding doors, My favorite feature of a DJ

4.10s with a V8 Automatic combo should work OK with 33s, some will say to go deeper.

You may want to run sway bars once you get it driving, with the steel top the DJ has
it will have more body roll than an open CJ.
04-01-2021 07:56 PM
PNWGERMAN Oh I also started rebuilding the front diff. Got the spartan locker installed and have a set of 4:10 gears from Yukon sitting on my bench. I'm going to keep it as a project to do while I'm waiting on other parts to show up.
Iv never re-geared a 4x4 before so I'm not sure how the 4:10 gears will be with 33' tires and a V8. I did some research and talked to a friend about it. I guess If I don't like them Ill move to a different gear set later.
04-01-2021 07:49 PM
PNWGERMAN Its been a while but I'v started making progress again.
I finally got all the surface rust, dirt, and tar off the bottom of the body and gave it a quick coat of primer and some seam sealer. I still have a few odds and ends to wrap up down there but I'm going to forget about them till I take the body off for paint later on.



Getting that tedious and dirty job done let me get the cab mounted on the frame. It was a bit of a struggle. I did a lot of measuring to get the cab centered and squared up on the frame, and to get the bolt holes in the correct place. After all of the checking and double checking, some of the holes did not line up well at all. It also looked like the cab could move forward on the frame a bit. I figured I F'ed up some where, so I checked all my work and it was all ok.



Turns out the factory Jeep mounting brackets on the frame were all in different places. Some were a 1/4-1/2" different from each other. Now I know why the holes in the factory floor were all in different places. I figured it was just ware and tare, but I think they were drilled that way from the factory. I wonder how they did it. A lot of the factory sheet metal work is real pore. Horrible welds, and a lot of points where things just don't line up at all.


Center line on the back bumper.


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Center at the front of the cab.



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr



So ones I had things back in place, I drilled some large holes in about the right place, and welded a piece of tube into the floor framing to get the holes in the correct places. Technically this should be way stronger then I was originally planning on doing things, because now those bolts cant squeeze the square tube together at all.



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


I put the a fender, and the front clip back on to check my placement and it all seams to be working. Sadly the CJ body mount kit I got does not have the front clip bushings I need. Ill have to make my own I think, with a DIY liquid polyurethane kit. Its fun getting a little peak at what it will look like when its done. You can see it if you squint really hard.



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Since the wheel base changed Im going to have to modify the wheel arches a bit. Im thinking Ill cut them out in the back, get them centered on the wheels, and weld them back in.



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


I test fit these lights the other day for ****s and giggles. Hooked them up for a quick test.



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


The break lights have the turn signal in the center, two in one, so I can delete the little hole for the factory signal light.



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


And that's about it. This weekend Im going to continue sheet metal work. I need to fix some rust around the bottom of the rear windows, fill in two patches, move the wheel arches, and a whole bunch of other little stuff.



After that its going to be time to start looking for an engine and trans. If anyone knows of a 4.8 Chevy/GMC V8 or a good 4L60-E let me know.
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