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How screwed is this axle?

4K views 49 replies 13 participants last post by  anotherheep 
#1 ·
So a funny thing happened today.... about 30 or so miles from home, I heard a thump thump thump. Brought it home slowly, took it apart, and found the attached pics...

2002 Grand Cherokee Limited
4.0, selectrak, bone stock. Just over 200k miles.

This is the drivers' side.

I'd appreciate any input. Thanks!
 

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#2 · (Edited)
Your going to be needing a new one of those. Most likely the other side bearing is ready to go also. Looks like the seal was leaking for a while and the bearings ran dry. The level doesn't need to be too far down to starve those end bearings of lube. Your lucky it is a 4.0 with a Dana 35, finding an axle should be easy. The selec trac 44A axles are rare as hens teeth seeing Dana stopped making replacements.
 
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#4 ·
I think the axle itself is fine, no damage where the bearing would ride as the inner race is still in position. Get new bearings (do both sides) and seals and change your diff fluid.
Now is the bearing carrier on the axle housing replaceable because that look like it may be chewed up.
 
#7 ·
No pin. Axle just pulls out, it is held in place with the bearing and retainer on the outer end. You can get Richmond axles from Rock auto for around $145 each that come with a bearing, a seal and new lug studs.
 
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#8 ·
uhmmmm...
but where does the retainer ring has gone? is it in pieces inside the axle tube?

Looking at the last picture, it seems that the seat seal is damaged, no more plain as it should be. It could be that the seal can't work fine.
 
#9 ·
^^ The retainer is shown in the third pic, the square looking part with the stud heads on it. That also needs to come out, it is what retains the seal in place. I am about to do this job tomorrow, or when the parts arrive. The retainer looks like this when not installed. The inner race of the bearing is still stuck on the axle as well.
 

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#10 ·
I am looking at the damage on the axle just outside of the inner bearing race in this pic:


If you were to install new bearings and seals on this axle, I expect that it would leak in short order, and then you would have to start over with a new axle/bearing/seal anyway. So yeah, I would probably get a new axle/bearing/seal before trying to run this one. If your retainer plate is still in good shape, keep it because the OEM plates seem to be much better than what you can get aftermarket. Otherwise, get a new one and hope the retainer plate studs do not spin on you, or tack weld the studs to the plate before install.

Your parking brake shoes are saturated with oil, I guarantee your hand brake does not work worth a darn. It can be a frustrating job, but think about replacing the shoes while you have this thing apart. Clean ALL the old oil/grease out of the brake drum, I mean clean, clean, clean. I would probably just replace the brake drum/rotor because once that gear oil soaks everything it is very hard to get rid of, and if you are rebuilding the parking brake then why skip the drum?

Do not forget about the other side, it probably needs attention too.
 
#12 ·
Thanks for the help, all! I got it apart and started to clean it up. This appears to be the race, right? The ring inside the axle. It'll have to come out, I assume? A buddy recommended that I get a slide hammer. Any better ideas? It's in there pretty good.

Also, ordered 2 new axles with bearings, seals, et al, and 2 quarts of the synthetic that Mopar recommends. 75W-140 I think.

I already bought new ceramic pads and brake shoes - going to replace all 4 rear sets.
 

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#16 ·
It is the remains of the inner bearing race, and yes it gets removed. Grind a groove into it without hitting the shaft below, give it a whack with a cold chisel and it will crack and fall right off.
 
#18 ·
Looking at the picture showing the bearing pieces inside the Dana 35 tube, the collar I am talking a bout seems to be in the tube...

This collar should be forced on the axle, I wonder how can it be out of the axle....
 
#24 ·
Here's what came off when I disassembled the axle. There doesn't appear to be anything else in the tube; only what appears to be the race that I still haven't been able to get out. Is there anything else that I'm missing?
 

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#25 ·
There is supposed to be a collar holding the bearing in place as far as I can tell on both the 44 and the 35. I see galled metal on the axle shaft where the collar would normally fit, it could be it got destroyed, I would inspect deep into the tube, if it is in there it probably is closer to the diff then the end of the axle housing. Check that posted pic again and see where the collar is positioned and then check out your axle shaft in the same place, you can see there was something there at one time.
 
#26 ·
Going clockwise from top right in the second pic, I think I see: 1) locking ring, 2) bearing seal, 3) retainer plate, 4) shaved off bit of the outer bearing race with the rest still in the axle tube. Is that piece at top right a heavy metal ring? If yes, that is the locking collar.

I saw one video where the mechanic cut a short, narrow bar of metal that he was able to fit behind the race in the tube so that it rested behind the ridge of the race. Then he wrapped a small chain or rope around the bar and gave it a couple of strong yanks which popped it out. Same concept as a slide hammer. Many parts stores will loan you a slide hammer for the job.
 
#29 ·
Both of the Axle bearing sets i have done, the outer race(shown in the pic GMAN posted above) was not very tight in the axle tube. It "popped" right out with a screwdriver for me. But, most other axles i have done like this(ford 9") have had to be slide hammered out.



That bearing retainer is inside the axle tube/diff somewhere. You can see where it used to be, and galled metal "peeled" off as it moved down the shaft. Definitely need to look deeper. If that axle shaft has any hope of being reused, you need some emery cloth or something similar to sand those bearing/retainer pads back down to original size. Its possible that they may be ruined based on what they look like now. Maybe the idea posted earlier to just get a new complete axle shaft with bearings and retainers installed, isnt to far off...


After looking again, Gman may be correct. The bearing retainer that gets pressed onto the axle shaft may be sitting on the upper right ontop of the cooler...At least you know where it is now....
 
#32 ·
Used to take my wife's 02 GC Limited with the 4.7 HO to Tire Discounters for scheduled maintenance, since I'm not able to do it. Starting having drive train issues, took it to my local mechanic, and he told me both axles were bone dry. Checked service records and it indicated that all levels were checked and topped off. Got two rebuilts from Rock Auto, replaced tie rods, front shocks and complete brake system re do, and now it drives like a dream. Took it on a 250 round trip to pick up a boat and trailer and was able to get 15Mpg, and it's got 244k miles. Of course TD would not accept responsibility.
Lesson Learned: You buy cheap, you get cheap. Never again.
 
#33 ·
The ring with the tapered surface is the outer bearing race. Your vehicle uses a timken style bearing. It consists of two parts, the outer race, called the cup and the inner race with the rollers and bearing roller cage which is called the cone.
Use the internet to find tricks and tools to get that race out. It is interference fit in the housing and needs force to remove. When installing the new cup, do not use any steel tool. Instead use an aluminum bearing installer or a brass drift working back and forth on each side to walk it in slowly. Be sure to pre-lube the bearing before reassembly. You will also need to take both new axles and bearings along with the inner and outer retainers to a shop that can press them on. These are a very tight fit and the retainer is designed to prevent the bearing cone from slipping off the shaft. BTW the old inner retainer is still sitting inside the axle housing. GET IT out.
 
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