|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-21-2020 03:16 PM|
|Dag93||So I finally finished my long ordeal with my passenger CV axle (never buying non Mopar axles again)! And I'm not running into this issue anymore, from what I can tell. All seems normal and I'm not getting any dash lights on. Do you guys think this problem still present? As far as I know The ABS sensors ran off the hubs not the CV axles so I'm confused.|
|04-16-2020 01:42 PM|
|SteveROntario||Put a want-add on Craigslist to see if you can get somebody to come calibrate it for you, this was a popular service in the past. You could probably disable it by removing a fuse but you would obviously be down some safety systems (ie. I am not taking any responsibility if you do this).|
|04-16-2020 12:41 PM|
|Dag93||Sorry for the slow response to this guys, so I have 2 questions for you? How do I use a scan tool to calibrate this and where do I get one? Also if I can't do this, could I install a new pump/control module bleed the system and expect to be able to drive safely to the dealership a few miles down the road? Also can the entire unit on mine be bad? The breaks still funtion as if there are no issues. Besides the lights, a code and some traction control mishaps in sharp left turns going 5 or so MPH I couldn't tell a problem.|
|04-05-2020 03:54 PM|
There are a couple flavours of that module. Some have an accelerometer in them for rollover protection so make sure you get one from the same model year and part # if you go used. Call the dealer and ask them if they need to program the VIN into it if you buy a new one. I had mine off to change the booster & master cylinder...seemed to bleed OK manually. I bled it before I bled the brakes. Anticipate replacing a couple calipers if you brake the bleeder screws on them.
|04-05-2020 12:37 PM|
|Dag93||I'm unsure of the pump and model are bad. My brakes still work just fine. As far as symptoms I hear a metallic ping sound when I hit about 10 - 15 MPH them my break light, esp, abs and traction control lights all come on and stay on the entire drive. Someone mentioned to me previously that they had a similar issue because coolant was getting on some type of wire harness, I had a water pump fail and I am getting more leaks off coolant but I doubt that's really my issue|
|04-04-2020 08:01 PM|
|Th0r||Seems steep. Do you need the module and valve assembly or just the module? I got a brake module for my 09 for $275 from the Jeep dealer, wholesale though since I work for a shop. Then install was 1.6hrs and calibration would have been 1hr but I did that myself with a good scan tool.|
|04-04-2020 06:17 PM|
|metalhead||I paid $175 for an ABS module for my 2011 Grand Cherokee from moparonlineparts. If its just the module, that is held onto the pump with 4 screws. Not hard to do but you need a scan tool to do a calibration test. $1400 is way too high just to replace the module.|
|04-04-2020 05:38 PM|
|Alex_||565 over at rockauto|
|04-04-2020 05:02 PM|
|thearborbarber||For that price it might be worth checking a local pick-a-part and go used.|
|04-04-2020 03:59 PM|
part is @850$ (600$wholesale) I do not know labor and a system bleed with a scanner would be needed.
Are the guaranteeing this will correct the issue?
Maybe tell us your issue, codes, any info you could. Very often electrical circuit type codes.
|04-04-2020 02:49 PM|
ABS Control Module - 08 Grand Cherokee WK
Hey guys, I was reaching out cause I have been told by my local Jeep dealer that my ABS control module is bad and needs to be replaced. They quoted me $1400! I was looking for some advice to see if anyone has done this previously themselves, was it difficult and where did you source your parts? The stock part from Mopar is