|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-01-2020 10:41 PM|
|RAMMJETT||Wow what a build , nice job ..|
|07-01-2020 04:17 PM|
So I’ve here’s kinda where I’m at. I’ve spoken at length to the guys at busted knuckle, the folks at accutune, my local fab shop and some buddies and have come to a few conclusions.
First and foremost, I need a sway bar. There just isn’t an easy way around this one. I spoke to Tony at TK1 racing and settled on a 42” rock crawler bar with 16” arms. And pulled the trigger. He was pretty convinced I didn’t need the double shear kit for my setup. Hopefully it comes soon so I can get it in and really do some testing.
Then there is the ride height. I got all kinds of suggestions on this, from moving my mounting locations, to changing to 14’s to running tender coils, several different spring rates and heigh calculations. And so on.
To rule a few things out I re-measured and re-ran all my measurements through the 4 and 3 link calculators. This let me see if there were any glaring link geometry issues that needed to be resolved. Fortunately the numbers looked great. I’m at 84% AS in back and 89% up front. And my roll axis angles are not bad, -1 in back (perfect) and 4.3 up front. The front will contribute to oversteer and body lean, but not by much.
So what I have done for now is this. I went somewhat against the grain and relieved much of my spring preload. Currently I have about .25-.5” of preload on all the springs. It’s definitely lower than I should be running, but it accomplishes the ride height I need and since my axles have limit straps I don’t think I’ll ever be in a situation where I don’t have more actual downforce on the spring than just the preload.
I have also lowered the adjuster nuts to an inch above the slider so that the dual rate comes into effect sooner. Easy to change if it’s too soon.
In all I was able to lose just over 1” on ride height. And it’s honestly about perfect. When I get in it it still leans, but only 1.5 degrees. Not terrible. I’ll probably add some additional pre-load on the driver side just to hold it level when I’m in it alone.
Other things to do eventually is change the shock valving so it has better control. I can also go with a tender coil in the rear and use slightly heavier springs which will help more with lean and load capacity. For now though I’m going to try it with the sway bar and see where I’m at.
This is a more tedious process than I thought, but I want to try and do it correctly. In reality I should have used a 14” coilover or air shocks, but live and learn.
On the plus side my buddy gave me some nice LED headlights he had from an old project that will be a nice upgrade to my old ones!
|07-01-2020 09:55 AM|
|coggsdsmt||Love the tube work!! Damn I need a bender...|
|06-30-2020 07:20 AM|
Originally Posted by tbunch View Post
|06-29-2020 07:02 PM|
Problem is lack of funds to fill said offshore account... plus the wife is an accountant who balances everything to the penny every month... No sneaking around that! 🙂
You forgot all the random other colors going into my scheme, red silver and black, but then 40 year old off white, still unpainted steel, dirt and about 3 variants of black! Haha, she definitely will need a bit of paint lovin at some point, but I want to make sure everything is working right before I freshen her up.
And yellow is still loved, all the love to yellow Jeeps!
|06-29-2020 05:29 PM|
Originally Posted by MrPink42 View Post
Whoa - Whatís wrong with yellow/black?
|06-29-2020 01:24 PM|
|MrPink42||Awesome build man. i am liking the red/black/silver more so than the red/yellow/black combo.|
|06-29-2020 11:25 AM|
|NashvilleTJ||Two words for you guys - offshore account. [emoji846]|
|06-29-2020 08:56 AM|
|'92 vegas YJ||
Originally Posted by tbunch View Post
|06-29-2020 08:04 AM|
Originally Posted by 87TPIYJ View Post
I ultimately I need to make up my mind on springs as soon as possible as I’m only able to swap them out at no cost if they remain in like-new condition. Basically if they get marred up then I have to re-buy them.. and I’m basically out of Jeep money if I want to keep my marriage intact haha. That’s also why I haven’t jumped to buy the sway bar stuff yet.
|06-29-2020 07:09 AM|
|87TPIYJ||Sway bars are a must for coilovers. Remember your springs will settle a little bit. I would look at TK1 double sheer sway bar since you have so much travel. Try sway bars first do a wheeling trip or two and see how much it settles before changing.|
|06-28-2020 12:50 PM|
Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
I’m going to talk to accutune tomorrow to double check my numbers, but what I’m thinking is that if I add tendercoils I can go negative on preload to lower the ride height by 2.5”, that will lower my COG significantly but still leave me about 4” uptravel. This will also flatten my links since my front is at 11.2 degrees at ride height which adds to the problem. Then I may also swap back to slightly firmer springs that will better control the torque lean and help with load carrying capacity so it doesn’t lean so hard with uneven weight (1 passenger vs 2 etc).
The more I read the more common it is to have a low geared, light rig dealing with this, but it can be solved. A sway bar, or 2 will be added if cheaper tuning and adjustments can’t get it under control enough, but I’m going to try and tune the problem out or down if I can first.
|06-28-2020 07:56 AM|
|NashvilleTJ||I canít recall, but are you running sway bars?|
|06-27-2020 10:47 PM|
I appreciate all the support! It’s been fun so far, but I bit off more than I expected, happy it’s getting closer.
(Long post warning, bail out now if you don’t want to hear my thoughts!)
Yesterday got me even closer as we got the exhaust all finished up. It was a LONG day though!
The day before another buddy and I got the Jeep loaded on my trailer. There had been some drama with the ‘friend’ I had storing it for me and long story short he badly damaged it, fixed it and then made off with my toolbox that had all my straps, hitches, jacks, tools etc and dropped off the face of the earth. The land owner then didn’t want me taking my trailer and had loaded it with stuff to prevent me from doing so. I effectively had to unload it and steal my own trailer back.. anyways.. moving on...
The bottom line is the Jeep fits, but only just. The deck is 77” wide and my Jeep is 85. It luckily had drive over fenders from the prior owners 1ton YJ so I used those and it fit right up, a quick trip to tractor supply For some new D-rings, a couple holes later and some New straps that arrived just in time and we were in business!
45min drive to my buddies house and the work began.
It was much more time consuming than I planned. Before I had basically just used a handful of part store bends and made it work. This time we did it right with full mandrel bends and V-band clamps, along with a stainless steel header.
Had to take like half the engine apart, modify motor mounts and clearance several things to even get the header to work. Then my good friend got fancy with the Tig!
I need to take some pics of the whole thing on there, but it was 2am when I finally pulled back up to my house. We had some complications including needing an additional V-band that another friend happened to have across town, and changing my muffler at the last minute.
I had originally planned on a long classic chambered Powerstick. 26” body to be exact. I was pretty excited, but when we got it test fitted and ran it I was really disappointed. It sounded no better than my $20 glass pack and was just as loud or louder.
Fortunately my friend has a plethora of organized extras at his place and happened to have a nice flow master he had just taken off his JL. It fit perfectly and was much quieter and cleaner sounding, so we burned that in and added a hanger.
I love the V-bands because it’s a snap to take the whole exhaust out, just 2 bolts now!
I’ve only driven it a little more and I’m a little worried about some stuff. (Sorry this post is long, but you know I’m keen on puking my thoughts out haha!)
So back to my concerns; coilovers unloading. This thing is Leah lighter than I originally thought. Even with the cage my sprung weight is so low I’m not only sitting high, but being in 4wd creates an INSANE jacking effect when I’m turning.
I know it was late yesterday, but I backed off a street curb while turning tightly to get it lined up with the trailer and it had a clench factor like I’ve never felt. The whole tub torqued over like a dumbbell glued to the top of a slinky. The thought very honestly went through my head.. “I’m gonna flop it on a CURB!”
I don’t know what the fix or cause is. I know valving can and should be tuned, I also know this is a known issue with light rigs on long coils, I know a rear seat bar can possibly correct it, but it is not a good feeling.
If anyone out there has coilover experience and can chime in then please let me know what your thoughts are. It seems to handle fine on the street in 2wd, has a notable lean on turns and likes to gangsta lean with just 1 occupant, but it’s vexing. I’m too light to compress my springs where I want, abs too light for the rig to follow the axles..
Either way, she moves and that lets me move forward with much more confidence! If you read all this then go you!
|06-26-2020 08:03 PM|
|'92 vegas YJ||Looks awesome man.|
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