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  Topic Review (Newest First)
03-05-2020 03:16 AM
Kcooks12 Well I'd say Jasper (3 year 100k mile warranty) if you want to have one shipped to you. They have a network of installers... I'd guess you're near the 5k to 7k mark depending on labor and such. Might want to look at doing the transmission and transfer case as well... not much more labor and you could probably get all three done for the neighborhood of 12k (high end) with labor. Not a bad deal to have everything nearly brand new. Of course axles, suspension, brakes, fuel system, etc will not be new but there is a sense of pride in keeping your jeep going. Keep all the receipts and it should help you recoup some of the cost if you decide to sell later.
02-29-2020 12:47 AM
vincentjones1 Luckily, no other fluids are mixing with the oil. I am thinking one of the reason it could be smoking is the rings are going bad.
02-29-2020 12:46 AM
vincentjones1 Yep, since last posting on the other thread, it has progressively gotten worse.
02-29-2020 12:44 AM
vincentjones1 Performance issues:
Compression test low readings (already mentioned); I will be taking it to another mechanic for another test.
Smoke from exhaust varies between white and black
Gas mileage has been cut in half
Various error codes (O2 sensors bad when brand new; misfires)
Loss of power when going up gradual inclines
Complete loss of power for maybe1 to 2 seconds before re-engaging (RPM gage will drop to zero before shooting back up to 2500 RPMs; this is new)
Speedometer is giving inaccurate reading (says I am going 40 on the freeway when I know I am going around 60)


I can wrench on alot of things on my Jeep, but rebuilding an engine is not one of them.
02-28-2020 11:43 AM
mukluk I thought this sounded familiar...
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/...ion-s-4385611/
02-28-2020 07:29 AM
jtec I agree some more testing, what is leaking compression would be helpful, a simple test would answer that, Valves, rings, gasket, unlikely pistons.

Compression leak down test. compressed air feed into cylinder and determine where air escapes...
02-28-2020 04:01 AM
Kcooks12 Agree those are very low numbers. Probably 160 - 170? I would redo myself or get a second opinion. If you're not having poor performance, engine codes, getting smoke from the exhaust, fuel in the oil, or coolant and oil mixing I wouldn't worry about it.
02-27-2020 10:47 PM
jeepdaddy2000
Quote:
Originally Posted by vincentjones1 View Post
My engine is just tired. My compression on 2 cylinders is 60, 2 at 65 and 2 at 70. The compression test was done by the dealer. They advised a new engine. They recommended that even knowing that they wouldn't be doing any of the work. So they didnt stand to make any money. The head technician said that when they see compression values this low, they will begin to get misfires codes and it tends to go downhill from there. The Jeep has 205,000 miles it
Those numbers seem incredibly low to me. I would redo the test myself and insure I got both a wet and dry reading.


Not saying the engine isn't tired, but I would recheck that info before dropping 2 plus G's into a new engine.
02-27-2020 09:02 PM
vincentjones1
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000 View Post
First question, what is "failing"?


As for replacement, I always try to use a local machine shop. They can interact with you over the course of the machining/rebuilding process. You also have a face to go to if there are issues with the engine. It is a longer and usually more expensive route, but a good reputable shop the lives and dies on it's reputation will usually give a better product.


This route usually entails you pulling/installing the engine at a minimum. The more you can do as far as disassembly/assembly the more money you can save. If you are unable to R&R the engine or looking for a turn key experience, then you will need to go to a reputable automotive/offroad shop and work through them.



My engine is just tired. My compression on 2 cylinders is 60, 2 at 65 and 2 at 70. The compression test was done by the dealer. They advised a new engine. They recommended that even knowing that they wouldn't be doing any of the work. So they didnt stand to make any money. The head technician said that when they see compression values this low, they will begin to get misfires codes and it tends to go downhill from there. The Jeep has 205,000 miles it
02-27-2020 09:01 PM
vincentjones1
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
Skill level?
What is issue ? compression, seized crank/rod, valves?

1) have tools, work space and experience - then use a local machine shop and DIY

2) No time, no shop to use or experience then - 'jasper' and use their suggested installer

https://www.jasperengines.com/



Jasper is great. I have one in my landcruiser.
02-27-2020 09:00 PM
vincentjones1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kcooks12 View Post
Where are you located? I know some decent engine shops in Colorado near the Denver area. Superior Engines has a 6 year 60k mile warranty on their rebuilds. They also have used motors here and there. Junk yard motors like LKQ or Central Auto Parts are hit or miss and a bit of a gamble. I would not personally buy an online or catalog motor but that's my preference based on horror stories. If you plan on keeping it find a reputable mechanic who will pull your motor, ship it or transport yourself to the engine shop, then back to mechanic to put it in. Or skip the mechanic and do it yourself if you can to save some money 😃.

You never mentioned.... what's wrong with your motor?

I am in California. My compression on 2 cylinders is 60, 2 at 65 and 2 at 70. The compression test was done by the dealer. They advised a new engine. They recommended that even knowing that they wouldn't be doing any of the work. So they didnt stand to make any money. The head technician said that when they see compression values this low, they will begin to get misfires codes and it tends to go downhill from there. The Jeep has 205,000 miles it
02-27-2020 08:34 AM
jeepdaddy2000
Quote:
Originally Posted by vincentjones1 View Post
My '07 Wrangler JK (203,500) engine is finally failing. I now need to determine which way to go: new, used or rebuilt.
First question, what is "failing"?


As for replacement, I always try to use a local machine shop. They can interact with you over the course of the machining/rebuilding process. You also have a face to go to if there are issues with the engine. It is a longer and usually more expensive route, but a good reputable shop the lives and dies on it's reputation will usually give a better product.


This route usually entails you pulling/installing the engine at a minimum. The more you can do as far as disassembly/assembly the more money you can save. If you are unable to R&R the engine or looking for a turn key experience, then you will need to go to a reputable automotive/offroad shop and work through them.
02-27-2020 07:06 AM
Kruzin I second Jasper. They're nationwide, stand behind their products and are OEM quality remanufactured parts. Every dealership I worked at for the last 20 years has used them.
02-27-2020 06:42 AM
jtec Skill level?
What is issue ? compression, seized crank/rod, valves?

1) have tools, work space and experience - then use a local machine shop and DIY

2) No time, no shop to use or experience then - 'jasper' and use their suggested installer

https://www.jasperengines.com/
02-27-2020 03:24 AM
Kcooks12 Where are you located? I know some decent engine shops in Colorado near the Denver area. Superior Engines has a 6 year 60k mile warranty on their rebuilds. They also have used motors here and there. Junk yard motors like LKQ or Central Auto Parts are hit or miss and a bit of a gamble. I would not personally buy an online or catalog motor but that's my preference based on horror stories. If you plan on keeping it find a reputable mechanic who will pull your motor, ship it or transport yourself to the engine shop, then back to mechanic to put it in. Or skip the mechanic and do it yourself if you can to save some money 😃.

You never mentioned.... what's wrong with your motor?
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