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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-11-2020 04:11 PM
Skeetswk Officially got the jeep back today, what it ended up being was the pushrods not in the proper place on the driver's side. there were quite a few complications that surrounded the issue. This whole Job ended up taking much longer than expected but glad it all worked out in the end and have it back running. I also learned so much from this job and had a lot of fun, with that being said hopefully don't have to dig into all that anytime soon.
Something we did in this job even ended up fixing my Hemi tic!!

Thank You again for all the help
03-19-2020 08:57 AM
90grandoneer It'll be interesting to see if the idle dip changes/goes away after doing the intake. If there are exhaust leaks before the upstream O2's, those need to be fixed too.

I haven't heard of anyone being able to accurately read the trans. temp on a 545RFE for the reason you stated. My DashHawk will read it, but it always read about 100*F high.....I believe. When I need to look at it during or after a heavy load on it, I just use the reading as a reference. If it were to be way out of line, I'd do something about it.

I hear you on all your Chrysler gripes. I guess????? maybe the owners of the Jeeps built when Chrysler was partnered with Mercedes (DCX) are a slight bit better off than you folks who have to deal with Fiat Chrysler (FCA). For many years (over 30) I was a classic Mercedes nut and only bought my first DCX vehicle because it had a lot of Mercedes stuff on it and also the Hemi and nice looks. It was only later that I bought the Jeep and just last year bought the partially broken 300C SRT8 from my Grandson.
03-19-2020 03:30 AM
Mtndewdude88 @90grandoneer
Yeah my plan was to pull the intake and do the gaskets and clean up the rest of that mouse nest. Clean anything else I can, ports, intake, etc. I use Royal Purple for everything, for oil I use R.P. HPS 5w-20. I think the P.O. at least used full syn but I can't confirm that. I have a catch can from B.T. though as you will see in the pictures it's not currently installed. I am wanting to run the hoses differently for a few reasons and I am trying to find different fittings that will work in their can. I am hoping something from Fragola will match up but anyways, I am anxious to see what the insides and ports look like as well. I also tried to get a decent picture of the little rubber thing poking out from under the I.M and the aluminum valley between the I.M. and V.C., and also took one of the engine as it currently looks. it was much much dirtier when I bought it, and will look for nicer when it it "done" lol

I suppose the S.T. trims being the same is probably the unattainable perfect world lol, be curious to see how the trend changes after the gaskets are replaced.

the rpm dip only seems to happen when the vehicle has been idling for a few minutes. If I drive somewhere and park and sit their 10 minutes is when I notice it, though it doesn't take 10 mins to happen, usually after a few minutes I will start to notice it. then if it is happening it isn't a steady thing, it comes and goes every few minutes maybe. sometimes it doesn't do it at all. I had considered maybe it was a torque converter things as well, but since it is such a minimal thing I really haven't given it much thought as for trying to solve it because I got enough other stuff to work on with this jeep lol. I will say my tranny fluid never seems to get hot. Usually it will be just slightly warm to the touch. I drove it for 6 hours straight like 2 months ago, only stopping 1 time for gas, and when I got home I checked it and it was still only warm. Though that day was 0°F outside and my guess is that the oil cooler just keeps it that cool for me. I plan to pay more attention to it in the heat of the summer and see, but even as spring is coming in and getting warmer the temp feels the same, and checking it using a laser thermometer says its usually under 100°F. For some reason the BlueDriver doesn't allow me to look at trans temp, it says that PID is not supported, which is another reason I am looking forward to a good scanner.

As for my gripes with Chrysler....ooo man don't get me started, I am actually keeping a sort of journal on this Jeep build and a good amount of it is rants lol. Besides the obvious electrical inadequacies, I really have a problem with their apparent attitude. For example, having to pay $120 to purchase their service manual...I understand paying for something like say when another company like chilton had to take time to invest and make the manual and then sell it, but Chrysler would have had to have had the manual written before they could have even started production of the vehicle, they use that same information in the factories to build them. I have 1st hand knowledge of this in production for a particularly well known boat motor manufacturer. I have worked in and seen what goes into all the aspects of production from engineering to the parts supply, inventory tracking, ISO certification, assembly to being out the door for sale. So I know that Chrysler had to have that information already on hand and collated to even build the Jeep, furthermore that information would have been factored into the end cost of having made the Jeep, the cost that the first owner would have paid for. So why am I having to purchase this information... ok whatever, so imagine my irritation to find out the $150 USB I just bought actually contains no information, but rather is more of a key into the website so that I can view the information!! O yeah and then they try to prevent you from easily printing that information off by using formatting tactics so that when you try and export it in someway to another source, it doesn't format over nicely and print all beautifully. I mean to me that is just really lousy customer treatment. but wait there is more, they don't include a wiring diagram, electrical connector pin out, or terminal information, and I am constantly find errors in their own manual, and I mean sometimes major errors. Earlier tonight I found one section that said the spark plugs should be torqued to 30 ft/lbs When I did my brakes last I found one section that said the caliper pin bolts should be torqued to like 36 ft/lbs and then the very next section they said 18 ft/lbs. The whole thing is a joke. Then to top it off they evidently can't even keep their own inventory and build processes right, which as i have said before I don't know how they can even have ISO certification with what I am about to say. I have a 2010, yet I have the door panels that have the hidden screw under the switch bank that is supposed to only be on a 2008 model. I have the front cradle that doesn't have the extra welded nut certs where I could bolt up the JBA skid plate with 2 extra bolts, my holes are just open holes, no nut certs. I have the IAT sensor that is a 1/4 turn style which according to them isn't on my Jeep. in fact I have taken direct part numbers off of certain items on my Jeep and then go to any of the factory Mopar websites and type that in and it will tell me that it doesn't fit on a 2010 Limited!! It makes buying parts difficult because the IAT for example, if I went to autozone or any such website/store and asked for a 2010 Limited IAT almost every place tells me that I need the push in style. The push in style doesn't even connect to my harness, also I measured the resistance of each and they were like 1kohms difference, so I am sure if I did buy the other harness connector and then splice that in and try the push in style IAT I would probably experience some issues as the computer, I would think, wouldn't be programmed the same way as the different resistance would mean a different reading of the temp, and in turn means different decisions made by the computer on engine parameters. Last thing I will bring up for now is the way they try to bully their customers into having to purchase their brand NV245 transfer case fluid. It literally only tells you their part number, and when you get that qt bottle of junk it has no other identifying information on it, nothing about the type or weight or anything. This is as low class as it gets and I wasn't going to have it. I know Mopar isn't making that oil, so long story short I put in I figure 15 hours of research to figure this out, and after looking through SDS sheets and the information that was available, and with a little luck of knowing who to talk to, I came to the conclusion that the Mopar NV245 fluid is a hydraulic fluid. Which also makes sense based on the design of that case. From what I can tell the Mopar brand is made by Mobil and is actually just rebranded MobilFluid 424. This I feel was verified by the fact that both brands SDS sheets were identical, literally identical to the layout and everything. So as it turns out its a 30w hydraulic fluid. I use Royal Purple Syn Tractor 3 in mine and it works better for sure. About this same time Amsoil put up on their website that the NV245 transfer case can use their Synthetic Tractor Hydraulic/Transmission Oil SAE 5W-30 Product Code: ATHQT-EA. which definitely confirms my findings as that product is the equivalent of Royal Purple Syn Tractor 3, MobilFluid 424, etc. Now the elation I felt when I put this all together was amazing but also brought some more disgust because the SDS sheet for the Mopar junk says the pour point of that product is -32°F. Now where I live I have seen first hand -32°F on the thermometer, without windchill. Which means in that condition when I start the Jeep the transfer case is full of basically gel. not a fluid oil that is ready to do its job and protect against wear. So they have been bullying countless owners to buy and use their inferior product that isn't even offering total protection, where you could have bought the Amsoil product for the same price, but that has a pour point of -58°F!!! The R.P. that I use has been discontinued, it had a pour point of like -52°F. Lucky for me I have a 5 gallon jug of it, which should last me for life lol. So I did try to keep that rant short lol, and actually I did as I have many more examples on my Jeep of the parts issue. seems like they made mine out of whatever leftover parts were available that day. when I worked with that company we had to be able to track EVERYTHING. one time a particular motor line had a updated version of a latch cable installed, and it was noted at exactly which motor the old cable went onto, and the very first new cable that was installed had changed the final product part number from that point forward. this is how they are able to track items for recall, so that if a problem is found with a particular item, that item can then be tracked to every product it went on, and then to where those products got sold, and then to the user who bought it so they can be informed. evidently Chrysler can't do these things properly, and that is how I have the Jeep made from parts that aren't on my Jeep. That is kind of scary because then how many recalls are being done wrong, people with the bad part that don't know it because Chrysler didn't record it properly? anyway this is partly the disdain that actually drove me to want to rebuild my Jeep entirely and make it would it could have been. hopefully in the future Chrysler starts to treat their customers better!
03-18-2020 08:10 PM
90grandoneer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtndewdude88 View Post
@90grandoneer
ok I will definitely check the bolts and torque, though I am really quite sure the intake gaskets need to be replaced. My main thought for this is because those few tiny square holes that are in the I.M. where it mates up with the head, the front passenger side one has what appears to be a tiny piece of rubber sticking out, which i assume to be part of a gasket. I will take a picture later to clarify if you'd want. Also it would allow me to clean the rest of that mouse nest out and be able to clean up the I.M. and see kinda what the valves look like and such. Also I really don't think the valve covers are leaking bc there is no oily residue from the top of the covers into that small valley-the oily residue is more looking like it comes from the I.M. and some of the injectors are a bit oily looking-could those o-rings need to be replaced? if so is that pretty straight forward? I will consult my service manual of course but can't say I recall seeing info on them. Also (another reason I have been wanting a scanner) I have been watching my fuel trim and o2 sensors on the BlueDriver and get what I assume to be some odd behavior(I am assuming though I am not terribly knowledgeable-but seems to be odd)-the fuel trim for the most part stays around 0 for the L.T. only a few times I have seen it get more that +/- 1 and don't think I have seen it more that +/-3. The S.T. I have of course seen bounce more, but what seems odd is that the bank1 and bank2 aren't the same, at times they will be reading out the same, or at least changing to the same number within a second of each other, but at other times I have seen them stay as much as maybe 3% apart. I would assume a proper working system would be balanced and those numbers would be the same? With the O2 sensors the two banks often show the voltage of Bank1/2 Sensors2 to be slightly different(off top my of my head they usually ready .76v/.67v with occasional dips). The Bank1/2 Sensor1 are usually bouncing(which i understand to be normal?) and will bouncing from a range of like .1-.7v., but again they aren't often in sync with each other in the timing of that bounce. I would have to look back at the data I have saved but i think these are fairly accurate from memory. Now that being said I have found two small exhaust leaks, though back by the muffler after the o2 sensors, but haven't been able to see any further up. From what I read in the service manual these issues could be the intake gaskets, the o2 sensors, or exhaust leaks. still they must be small enough problems that without having that BlueDriver always hooked up I wouldn't have really known it because my gas mileage has been very much the same as when I first bought it, and for the most part it doesn't ever stall or stutter. Only thing I notice is at idle it will mostly sit around the 640rpm with small fluctuations, but then every few minutes it will start to trip up and the rpm may drop into the 580 range and then recover and the drop and recover, then stay consistent for a few minutes then start to idle rough again. also I am not ruling out other electrical/module issues just because as I have stated before, I have had nonstop electrical/module problems,and often find bad connections/corrosion/ nearly broken wires/etc. Actually still have a code for U0024 CanB- open and the ECU single wire mode(which service manual seems to say that will often be set when the U0024 code is set) and still have the rear park assist LED bar flash randomly even in Drive(yet never have any codes related to park assist). I have been very unimpressed with Chrysler electronics needless to say.

The Autel MP808 is one that I keep coming back to when trying to narrow it down, on Amazon right now for $709-I can guarantee you I have spent more than $709 in the last 3 years on diagnostics at a shop so this is why I am looking for a scanner(besides I just like having tools lol) From what i am seeing on the Autel site for comparisons, the $700 range is the cheapest you can go and still have the ability to fully scan all modules. The ones cheaper than $700 still do most, but didn't list the evap related systems, which is one I would have personally needed recently, as well as a whole host of other systems aren't on the list for the scanners in the sub $700 range. Now my debate is what more do I want in features, because Bluetooth for example isn't needed, but idk if I can go back to plugging in a cord after having wireless everything for the last several years

So with the intake gaskets, I have the 8 blue square ones. But what are these ones for and are they needed for replacing intake gaskets?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...46482&jsn=5989 That is the question I can't seem to find an answer to. Thank you again for all the help and insights, as it has been invaluable. I am sure everyone else on the forum thinks the same!
There should be no little rubber o-ring type stuff showing around the intake, so maybe it won't hurt to take it off and have a look see. As I said, it's not really that difficult. Once the intake is off, you won't be able to see much except the foam insulation and, if you remove it (be careful it may come apart on you), all you'll see is the four MDS solenoids and their wiring.

If the fuel injectors a seeping, changing the o-rings is easy and straight forward. Be careful, if you're going to unplug them, as the plugs are pretty fragile. It'll take a little force to remove them, as the o-rings are a pretty tight fit. When installing with the new o-rings, I used a very small amount of dielectric compound on them so they'd go in a little easier. Be careful not to contaminate injector holes, as that'll adversely affect the spray patterns.

Your long term fuel trims are about as good as you can get.....zero......not too rich, not too lean. The short term trims will fluctuate, the faster the better past the mid-point of about .450 MV. This rapid cross over are called crosscounts and the faster or more it does it the more accurate the fuel trims will be. Both cylinder banks will more likely be different than the same, as there are a lot of variables.....condition of valves, vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks (before the upstream O2's), cylinder compression pressures, condition of O2 Sensors, and so on. The goal of the short term trim is to keep the long term trim as close to zero as possible.

Ahh, the old idle dip issue. Dose yours only do it when coming to a stop or any time it feels like it? There are also a lot of things that could cause this, but it's not always easy to pinpoint, even with a good scanner. Some things that can cause it are fuel trims, exhaust. vacuum leaks, O2's, throttle body contamination and even transmission fluid level (especially with the 545RFE) and converter clutch deactivation issues. I have two vehicles with the NAG1 transmission in them (both somewhat modified about the same) and both have the idle dip and the fluid levels are correct, but only after the transmission temperature reaches about about 105*F, and then the tip length of time varies. I think I've narrowed it down to the converter clutches because I can put in neutral when coming to a stop and it won't do it. My Jeep is also modded almost exactly like the others, but has the 545RFE transmission and doesn't have this problem at all. I idle the two with the NAG1's at about 675 RPM and they'll dip down to about 625 RPM and then eventually recover. I idle the Jeep at 625 RPM and never have the dip with it.

I agree, Chrysler electronics really suck and they're wiring diagrams are even worse......everything is very crude.

If you watch some of these forums, there are a lot of folks that do the same thing you used to do and yet still won't/don't spring for a quality diagnostic scanner of some sort.....all newer vehicles require them to troubleshoot adequately. Any scanner, even a high quality one, isn't a "magic bullet" that will allow you to pinpoint every and all problems, but it is a far sight better than playing guessing games and throwing parts at the issue.

As far as your debate goes, IMO, as long as you get something that will read all electronic modules and do some of the routine component testing and some of the factory type relearns/programming, you'll be fine. I started with a DS 708 (if you can find a good used one....go for it) and gave it to my Son after his got stolen from his shop. Then I bought an MS906 and it is faster and has more features, but I didn't like the cable......it was always in the way. I finally talked my Son into buying it for his shop and then went out and bought another MS906BT, except this one is blue tooth and I like it a lot better. It even has a few more features too. As a side note, all of these 3 scanners have way more features than I'll ever use and/or even understand, but they do everything and more than I'll ever need on any of my current vehicles. I really don't plan to ever buy another vehicle. My 300C SRT8 is my daily driver (has the most miles on it) and the two 5.7's are my babies and now probably don't get 2000 miles a year on each of them. I do use one or the other for most of our travelling but, because of this Coronavirus, it looks like we won't be doing much of that either this year. We're going to take a short (about 150 miles) day trip tomorrow to a local State Park and will take the 300 for it. Gotta preserve the good ones.

Below are a few pix of my 5.7 Jeep with the intake removed and a look at the intake ports. Note the sticky, crap in the intake ports. This is from the P.O of the vehicle that obviously ran fossil oils and didn't have a catch can on it. This is why, IMO, these things should only run synthetic oil and all have a catch can added to catch most of this crap before it gets into the intake, combustion and exhaust tracts. You'll also see how the gaskets (o-rings) go and what the others are for. It'll all be obvious when you pull it apart.
03-18-2020 06:15 PM
Mtndewdude88 @90grandoneer
ok I will definitely check the bolts and torque, though I am really quite sure the intake gaskets need to be replaced. My main thought for this is because those few tiny square holes that are in the I.M. where it mates up with the head, the front passenger side one has what appears to be a tiny piece of rubber sticking out, which i assume to be part of a gasket. I will take a picture later to clarify if you'd want. Also it would allow me to clean the rest of that mouse nest out and be able to clean up the I.M. and see kinda what the valves look like and such. Also I really don't think the valve covers are leaking bc there is no oily residue from the top of the covers into that small valley-the oily residue is more looking like it comes from the I.M. and some of the injectors are a bit oily looking-could those o-rings need to be replaced? if so is that pretty straight forward? I will consult my service manual of course but can't say I recall seeing info on them. Also (another reason I have been wanting a scanner) I have been watching my fuel trim and o2 sensors on the BlueDriver and get what I assume to be some odd behavior(I am assuming though I am not terribly knowledgeable-but seems to be odd)-the fuel trim for the most part stays around 0 for the L.T. only a few times I have seen it get more that +/- 1 and don't think I have seen it more that +/-3. The S.T. I have of course seen bounce more, but what seems odd is that the bank1 and bank2 aren't the same, at times they will be reading out the same, or at least changing to the same number within a second of each other, but at other times I have seen them stay as much as maybe 3% apart. I would assume a proper working system would be balanced and those numbers would be the same? With the O2 sensors the two banks often show the voltage of Bank1/2 Sensors2 to be slightly different(off top my of my head they usually ready .76v/.67v with occasional dips). The Bank1/2 Sensor1 are usually bouncing(which i understand to be normal?) and will bouncing from a range of like .1-.7v., but again they aren't often in sync with each other in the timing of that bounce. I would have to look back at the data I have saved but i think these are fairly accurate from memory. Now that being said I have found two small exhaust leaks, though back by the muffler after the o2 sensors, but haven't been able to see any further up. From what I read in the service manual these issues could be the intake gaskets, the o2 sensors, or exhaust leaks. still they must be small enough problems that without having that BlueDriver always hooked up I wouldn't have really known it because my gas mileage has been very much the same as when I first bought it, and for the most part it doesn't ever stall or stutter. Only thing I notice is at idle it will mostly sit around the 640rpm with small fluctuations, but then every few minutes it will start to trip up and the rpm may drop into the 580 range and then recover and the drop and recover, then stay consistent for a few minutes then start to idle rough again. also I am not ruling out other electrical/module issues just because as I have stated before, I have had nonstop electrical/module problems,and often find bad connections/corrosion/ nearly broken wires/etc. Actually still have a code for U0024 CanB- open and the ECU single wire mode(which service manual seems to say that will often be set when the U0024 code is set) and still have the rear park assist LED bar flash randomly even in Drive(yet never have any codes related to park assist). I have been very unimpressed with Chrysler electronics needless to say.

The Autel MP808 is one that I keep coming back to when trying to narrow it down, on Amazon right now for $709-I can guarantee you I have spent more than $709 in the last 3 years on diagnostics at a shop so this is why I am looking for a scanner(besides I just like having tools lol) From what i am seeing on the Autel site for comparisons, the $700 range is the cheapest you can go and still have the ability to fully scan all modules. The ones cheaper than $700 still do most, but didn't list the evap related systems, which is one I would have personally needed recently, as well as a whole host of other systems aren't on the list for the scanners in the sub $700 range. Now my debate is what more do I want in features, because Bluetooth for example isn't needed, but idk if I can go back to plugging in a cord after having wireless everything for the last several years

So with the intake gaskets, I have the 8 blue square ones. But what are these ones for and are they needed for replacing intake gaskets?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...46482&jsn=5989 That is the question I can't seem to find an answer to. Thank you again for all the help and insights, as it has been invaluable. I am sure everyone else on the forum thinks the same!
03-18-2020 11:52 AM
90grandoneer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtndewdude88 View Post
so not trying to invade a thread here, but couldn't find too much in the forums/google and it somewhat pertains to your situation... I am going to put in new intake gaskets, hoping this weekend, as there has been just the slightest oil weep from them(I guess 1 on each side-after months there will be a slight oil/dust residue in that little valley between the I.M. and valve covers-and only at about the midpoint back so not terrible but anyway) My question is about the gaskets, I thought I seen somewhere awhile back that there were and extra gasket or two other than the 8 intake gaskets, but now I cant seem to verify that information, and I am wanting to get parts ordered and here by the weekend(preferably without extra shipping) I ordered the Fel-Pro set and for some reason they were signature required and UPS couldn't leave them today so I can't verify that the set came with the extra 2(i have seen claims that people that ordered that same part number have received the gaskets with/without the extra gaskets). what is the low down on the other ones? I see the Mopar factory websites diagrams show there are some rectangular looking "PCV" gaskets that says there are 2 of them. Is that the case for the gen3 VVT engines too? I would assume I would want to change them right away too because I am already in there? I just watched and googled hours of videos/sites/forums and somehow I don't see much talk of this... anyway figured since you were in the middle of having the intake off it may be relevant enough to post.

the only thing i can "add" to your post, and its probably not helpful...but I have moved the T.B. plate(gently with my finger) many times while the T.B. harness was disconnected, but the T.B. itself still attached to the engine, and have not had any issues result. I have also never used a scan tool to do the "relearn" procedure and as far as I can tell never had a problem. I have done this probably 5 times in the last 3 years, most recently just the other day. maybe I am just lucky idk. Now that I am thinking of it actually, I don't think my 2010 Service Manual says anything about doing a relearn procedure for the Removal/Install of the intake manifold, I just read it over yesterday, going to print it out for the weekend so I will double check it. I certainly can't wait to have one of those scanners/capabilities @90grandoneer I was looking at the Autel line up off your suggestion and I am pretty impressed at the amount of capabilities and the price points. The hardest part is figuring out which one to get as they have so many options! not a bad problem to have! lol
A lot of times the oil is coming from the valve covers. Before you go tearing into yours, I'd recommend you check and make sure all the intake manifold and valve cover bolts are tightened to the factory torques. All of the "gaskets" for the 5.7 intake manifold and valve covers are really O-ring seals and normally will not leak if installed and torqued correctly. The foam under the intake manifold is for sound deadening to quiet down the MDS solenoids. If you end up pulling the intake manifold (an easy job), the gasket kit should contain all of the o-ring type seals you'll need and maybe even new fuel injector o-ring seals. You'll also need the tool to disconnect the fuel line.....available for cheap at Harbor Freight. If you have a 6.1 engine, the intake manifold gaskets ARE gaskets with o-ring type seals molded into them similar to the 5.7. I've seen those seals, come apart or are missing (probably ingested though the combustion tract and out the exhaust) and, yes, there will be some pretty good vacuum leaks and fuel trim issues then.

Disconnecting (electrically) and removing and reinstalling the same throttle body will not adversely affect its synchronization with the PCM. A new one, or one that has been tampered with will require a relearn.

Autel has a pretty good line of diagnostic scanners that have all of the capabilities you'll ever need for ANY vehicle with the On-Board Diagnostic II system.....which is everything from 1996 to now and beyond. If you buy one new, you'll get a free year of updates. If needed beyond that, you'll have to pay. So far, I've never had to pay for updates, but I keep my vehicles almost forever. ANY newer vehicle that you, your family, friends and neighbors have will be covered with NO additional modules needed. Is it a good investment? Yes, unless you like playing guessing games and replacing parts needlessly and still not fix the problem(s) you're dealing with. It always amazes me that some folks are willing to spend $$$ to keep throwing money (aka parts) at a problem but not willing to spend the money to get a pretty good high end scanner (one that reads ALL electronic modules) to help point you in the right direction. I liken it to the old saying, "There's never enough time (or money) to do the job right, but there's always enough time (and money) to do it over again." Sorry, I just don't get it.
03-18-2020 09:03 AM
Skeetswk Took it to jeep directly to reprogram the throttle body. Turns out this was not the problem . There goes 300 bucks haha. They told me there is something mechanically broken within the engine. The only thing I can think of is the valve lifter plastic retaining clip. This is the clip that holds the roller lifters retainer to the engine block. When I discovered this I even inspected the rear one the clip wasn't even touching anything. Also the head holds this piece tight. So i am not too convinced this is the issue. No clue what else could be. I think I am going to grab it back from the dealer and tear back into this given that estimated 500 dollars.


And to answer your question about the intake gaskets Yes there are the obvious 8 rectangle ones but along with that there are two smaller oddly shaped gaskets on the underside of the intake also. They are much smaller and in a shape I can not describe with one side being straight and the other side having two rounded corners. Almost like a slanted dog bone. Mine just came with my fel pro kit. On rock auto you can look up "PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Grommet" and that is the proper name, sold by fel pro for 2 bucks part number “FEL-PRO 71281”. Also if you look up "PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve Seal" you will get what i believe is the same item just listed under another name by a different company. MAHLE B31873
They both claim to be replacing factory part number “#53032384AB”

If I am not mistaken it is the same gasket. Just on one side it is used for oil filler tube and the other is for the vacuum.
03-17-2020 07:07 PM
Mtndewdude88
Quote:
Everything went real smooth besides a few broken clips. When taking off the intake, in the center of the engine I found a mouse nest, clear chew marks on the foam and made into a pile, with walnuts and a few other things Hahahha.
Hey same here, I haven't even taken my Intake manifold off yet and I had already seen the mouse nest under there right at the front. Found it maybe 1 year ago, used my long picks set to pull the majority of it out and then used my detail vacuum with its little micro hose to suck most of it out. I think the previous owner didn't drive it much because I managed to get it with 59k miles and also I found the mouse signs of corn first under the cargo floor, then under the I.M., and the other week I replaced the parking brake switch and under the center console was more corn. From what very little I can see under the I.M. I would say the also chewed up some of my foam blanket thing that under there. I don't care too much about that, I plan to install a heat shield to the underside of the intake manifold and I am not 100% certain there will be room for both that and the foam pad, I which case the foam pad will get tossed(or maybe I could slice it in two, idk find out soon lol)
03-17-2020 06:55 PM
Mtndewdude88 so not trying to invade a thread here, but couldn't find too much in the forums/google and it somewhat pertains to your situation... I am going to put in new intake gaskets, hoping this weekend, as there has been just the slightest oil weep from them(I guess 1 on each side-after months there will be a slight oil/dust residue in that little valley between the I.M. and valve covers-and only at about the midpoint back so not terrible but anyway) My question is about the gaskets, I thought I seen somewhere awhile back that there were and extra gasket or two other than the 8 intake gaskets, but now I cant seem to verify that information, and I am wanting to get parts ordered and here by the weekend(preferably without extra shipping) I ordered the Fel-Pro set and for some reason they were signature required and UPS couldn't leave them today so I can't verify that the set came with the extra 2(i have seen claims that people that ordered that same part number have received the gaskets with/without the extra gaskets). what is the low down on the other ones? I see the Mopar factory websites diagrams show there are some rectangular looking "PCV" gaskets that says there are 2 of them. Is that the case for the gen3 VVT engines too? I would assume I would want to change them right away too because I am already in there? I just watched and googled hours of videos/sites/forums and somehow I don't see much talk of this... anyway figured since you were in the middle of having the intake off it may be relevant enough to post.

the only thing i can "add" to your post, and its probably not helpful...but I have moved the T.B. plate(gently with my finger) many times while the T.B. harness was disconnected, but the T.B. itself still attached to the engine, and have not had any issues result. I have also never used a scan tool to do the "relearn" procedure and as far as I can tell never had a problem. I have done this probably 5 times in the last 3 years, most recently just the other day. maybe I am just lucky idk. Now that I am thinking of it actually, I don't think my 2010 Service Manual says anything about doing a relearn procedure for the Removal/Install of the intake manifold, I just read it over yesterday, going to print it out for the weekend so I will double check it. I certainly can't wait to have one of those scanners/capabilities @90grandoneer I was looking at the Autel line up off your suggestion and I am pretty impressed at the amount of capabilities and the price points. The hardest part is figuring out which one to get as they have so many options! not a bad problem to have! lol
03-11-2020 12:17 PM
90grandoneer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skeetswk View Post
I originally opened it when the intake was off to try to see another view of some pooling liquid I could see from the bottom. And yes I am not sure what happened and why it will not run correctly. Wont even throw a check engine light. I ordered and installed a new throttle body but understand I still need the use of a high end scanner to relearn. Changing between the old and new throttle body does affect how well it runs. I believe the computer is just very confused.
That's my next step as of now to relearn the throttle body. I think I have a guy that is actually able to come out with his scanner. And if that doesn't work, I guess have to take to jeep directly.
That pooling of liquid in the intake manifold was more than likely oil from the lousy Positive Crankcase Ventilation system on the Hemi's. It is a very common problem and can badly contaminate your intake, combustion and exhaust tracts. Many of us have installed catch cans to mitigate most of this issue. You may want to consider a catch can for yours too.

Let us know how this all turns out and, especially if you still continue to get coolant in the oil.
03-10-2020 08:54 PM
Skeetswk I originally opened it when the intake was off to try to see another view of some pooling liquid I could see from the bottom. And yes I am not sure what happened and why it will not run correctly. Wont even throw a check engine light. I ordered and installed a new throttle body but understand I still need the use of a high end scanner to relearn. Changing between the old and new throttle body does affect how well it runs. I believe the computer is just very confused.
That's my next step as of now to relearn the throttle body. I think I have a guy that is actually able to come out with his scanner. And if that doesn't work, I guess have to take to jeep directly.
03-04-2020 09:44 AM
90grandoneer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skeetswk View Post
Did u happen to know about that keeper peice? And yes I belive I found it on my drivers side yesterday, there was pocket on the block full of sludge.


But today i finished putting everything back together. I went to start up and wouldn’t start.... it turned over fine but wouldn’t start. Could only get it to start when I pressed the gas. And when it did run, it ran very rough. Had to accelerate to keep it going. No giant clanks or knocks however. And also when I switched the key to “on” I heard a new clicking. I think I have it narrowed down to the throttle body. I belive the clicking is the cervo trying to get to a position it can’t get to. I watched the butterfly get to fully closed and hesrd the cervo whinning like it is trying to go farther but can’t .

I pried opend The throttle body and it started without pressing the gas peddle.


I think this alll happened when I had the intake off. I manually opened the butterfly. Which I now know is not something to not be done. I’m thinking I made it jump a gear.

I tried a procedure to recalibrate the TB by pressing gas three times while key is in “on” position after battery disconnected. This did not work. Another ways to do this? I’m planning on ordering a new throttle bottle. I heard there is a special tool needed to calibrate it. Not sure


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Why were you messing with the throttle body in the first place? Manually opening the butterfly will not normally do any damage to it, unless there is power applied to the TB. The gee whiz throttle relearn procedure will not work. The only correct way to do it is with a relatively high end scanner that has the capability to do a factory type relearn.

So, is it running good again? Any more coolant in the oil?
03-01-2020 09:03 PM
Skeetswk Did u happen to know about that keeper peice? And yes I belive I found it on my drivers side yesterday, there was pocket on the block full of sludge.


But today i finished putting everything back together. I went to start up and wouldn’t start.... it turned over fine but wouldn’t start. Could only get it to start when I pressed the gas. And when it did run, it ran very rough. Had to accelerate to keep it going. No giant clanks or knocks however. And also when I switched the key to “on” I heard a new clicking. I think I have it narrowed down to the throttle body. I belive the clicking is the cervo trying to get to a position it can’t get to. I watched the butterfly get to fully closed and hesrd the cervo whinning like it is trying to go farther but can’t .

I pried opend The throttle body and it started without pressing the gas peddle.


I think this alll happened when I had the intake off. I manually opened the butterfly. Which I now know is not something to not be done. I’m thinking I made it jump a gear.

I tried a procedure to recalibrate the TB by pressing gas three times while key is in “on” position after battery disconnected. This did not work. Another ways to do this? I’m planning on ordering a new throttle bottle. I heard there is a special tool needed to calibrate it. Not sure


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03-01-2020 12:19 PM
90grandoneer So, did you find what was causing the coolant in the oil?
03-01-2020 09:04 AM
Skeetswk No no not anti seize in this sort of stuff, I meant more for example break job. That’s my foult. But yes second day wrapped up, got both heads out cleaned and replaced gasket. Tomorrow just putting everything back together.


And no no I defiantly appreciate your concern about the seats. You are right for sure on the issue. It has been a real problem on these hemis.


And yes defiantly a must to keep cooling
System in top notch performance. Im very happy I haven’t seen my engine temp gauge above halve way over the past 20k miles. I might have to look into those thermostats for later one.


Here is a picture of my heads. I noticed some difference in the little line of build up below each valve. Not sure if that means anything.
(Hoepfully Linked properly)
Also I sent a picture of the roller lifter keeper , when I took the head off the little keeper wings were already broken off, but the head seems to hold it in place. Also I inspected the rear one and the plastic keepers didn’t even seem to be touching anything. Strange to me.
So I put it back and bolted up the head.




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