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242 t/c linkage

871 views 26 replies 5 participants last post by  Klarah523 
#1 ·
Previous owner swapped in 242 & never hooked up linkage, & didn't leave it in there. What parts do I need to get hooked up? Thanks!
 
#4 ·
It might not let you post them I think you have to have a certain number of posts unless your a paid member just send me a private message in that case i'll give my cell you can text me. I was planning on working on mine tonight so I can show you what it should look like. I did a 247 to 242 standard duty on a 2004 4.0.
 
#8 ·
There should be a little plastic nub on the shift lever that that cable lock onto, Probably dealer only item, good luck...


Also looks like you need to swap the cable itself down into the bottom hole of the bracket.(to the left of your pic) the shift lever on the 242 is quite a bit shorter than the other cases.
 
#9 ·
Tim yeah looks like you have a lift and a trans drop which makes the front driveshaft angle worse. I have a 4" and 1" trans drop it's about the same that CV joint on the t case side won't last long. Regarding the linkage you're just missing the little bushing that makes that connecting slack free to the t case shift arm. They crumble when you remove it for the swap. Search the post. I paid like $20 for an aftermarket replacement but other guys that more creative and cheaper ideas that are probably better.
 
#10 ·
Thanks LuthWJ77.....it does have a 4" lift & trans drop, I just thought t/c should be supported more. Will look into different d-shafts & eliminate CV. Will look for bushing for linkage.
Does console need replacing to get correct gear indicator?
 
#11 ·
You can get the correct gears if you just remember where the positions are. The detent for the different modes in inside the t-case itself. I switched the faceplate on mine so it looked correct. It required removing the center console to do it. Have to snip the wires to the Overdrive lockout switch in the handle, and had to remove the shift handles(not always an easy task)
 
#12 ·
I have the same problem with the missing hardware.

I'm not sure if it's the right part, the video I watched of someone installing it had an actual arm instead of cable ending in an eyelet -- It pops through the eyelet/arm, then over the end of the "nipple."

I'm too n00b to post links and I'm not sure if it's the right part: Crown Automotive 53004810
 
#18 ·
For that linkage retainer, e-clips also work if you get the right size. Snap two of them on there. You can get an assortment of e-clips from Harbor Freight or a hardware store.
 
#20 ·
I haven't actually tried that crown bushing or similar but I suspect the answer is yes, you probably need to snap it on there with considerable force. It's not intended to be serviceable for the most part. You snap it on there and leave it. Pulling it off reduces its ability to hold somewhat when you snap it back on, meaning it's mostly considered disposable.


Honestly, e-clips work really well. I've got two WJs running e-clips on both of them for years. The linkage has never popped back off either one. Two stacked e-clips of the right size. Works great.
 
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