|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|02-17-2020 12:21 AM|
You don't say what temperature and where you are measuring. At 50-100 Fahrenheit (10 to 38 C) you should have an output voltage of 13.9-14.9V measured at the alternator B stud. If you are relying on the in panel meter or measuring at the battery, you may be measuring it wrong.
The reason for low voltage is sometimes because the sense wire is not connected properly. It needs to go to wherever you want to see 13.9V. Check your wiring is sensing at the solenoid (where the electrical system joins up, stock location) or you will have the voltage drop (under load i.e. when all that gear is on) along the big wire from the B stud to the solenoid affecting your system voltages. This is a problem with many 2 wire adaptations of a 3 wire system, that 3rd wire was there for a reason.
Does it get brighter when you race the engine? If so, it may be alternator output. If not, voltage drop along that big wire is my guess.
|02-16-2020 10:20 PM|
Originally Posted by 258 View Post
|02-16-2020 03:33 PM|
Add a relay harness to your headlights and a relay to the heater. A relay headlight harness will make a huge difference in seeing that drop of Voltage plus increase the brightness of the H4's. The issue is when you turn your headlights on, it's drawing its power through the entire OEM harness which is already carrying a load from everything else that's running; and because of the HIGH draw due to the H4 bulb wattage, this will eventually heat the switch and fry those cheap OEM factory wires that are aged. The relay harness will relieve the entire headlight load from your headlight switch so it should not over heat the wires or the switch. I'm getting ready to add a relay to my heater as I was advised on here already just to avoid that high draw as well. You can upgrade your 12si for now and figure out the CS130 and the adaption down the line. The 12si will NOT suffer once those relays are added.
Also, an auxiliary fuse box or bus bar might be a good add-on. This way you can connect all added accessories to it and leave the OEM fuse box as stock as possible. Keeps things cleaner too.
|02-16-2020 10:58 AM|
Originally Posted by 258 View Post
|02-15-2020 12:18 PM|
|258||What was wrong with the 12si? Was your 12si a 63 Amp? You can upgrade the internal regulator parts to maximum output, which is roughly 94/105 amps at lowest upgrade or go as high as 140 amps. Both are a good amount. It's easy to do. Then you simply keep your original set-up; which the 12si is a good alternator at higher amps. I do believe the CS upgrade however required slight modifications.|
|02-15-2020 11:40 AM|
|mystert29||Looks like this one from measures 6.1” bolt to bolt hole. Any one know what exact alternator to order from autozone? Getting frustrated.|
|02-14-2020 06:37 PM|
|mystert29||So I got one with the right spacing between the bolt holes and it lines up with the front alternator bracket. I have the California serpentine belt and the back doesn’t line up with the rear bracket hole now. You can clock the 12si in 4 locations and the cs130 in three and none of the locations match. Any ideas other than custom brackets or a higher amp 12si?|
|02-10-2020 11:25 AM|
|Tinker0000||Your old alternator has a 12si fan on it. To see if it is indeed a 12si, look on the back at the vent holes. The vents on a 10 are slots and the 12 has bigger square holes. The 10 and 12 are the same size, I think you got a large case alternator not a small case CS130.|
|02-09-2020 02:01 PM|
|mystert29||Pictures of the new one and old.|
|02-09-2020 01:52 PM|
CS130 alternator upgrade issue
I went to the junkyard today and picked up a rebuilt CS130 alternator. It’s got ears at 12 and 6. Looked like it would work. It’s out of a 93 gm Buick LeSabre with 3.8L. I get home and go
To replace the 10si I have and the ears are further apart. I’ve read that the spacing should be 6.6” apart and I’m measuring about 7”. I can’t find any info on a 7” mount to mount CS130. It won’t fit my alternator bracket. Am I missing something?