|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|02-04-2020 08:47 AM|
Originally Posted by joe_jeep View Post
|02-02-2020 09:38 AM|
could u wire the e locker off the wiring the fires up the locker pump?
seems like it would be cool to use the factory switch?
|02-01-2020 07:02 PM|
Originally Posted by TJnBC View Post
As far as the Rubi air line, I just used a fine thread small bolt and plugged the line and zip tied both the air and sensor wire on the frame up out of the way. The dash light for rear still flashes when you activate the front, but I just ignore it. Since the Elocker switch is blue and in a different location, it's no biggie for me.
|01-29-2020 01:12 PM|
Originally Posted by fromme View Post
Will have to try and get by with an Elocker for a year or two then get a d60 back there.
|01-29-2020 12:58 PM|
|fromme||Sure I have a suggestion but you wont like it. It’s time to call ECGS and order a d60 with an elocker or detroit locker.|
|01-29-2020 10:08 AM|
Originally Posted by RockWoRM View Post
This is the route I am most likely taking. How did you wire the Elocker into the housing? Were you able to use the existing hole for the Rubi locker air nipple (in housing) OR have to plug and drill a new hole?
|01-28-2020 08:09 PM|
|Mousejockey||Not on 37's 35's here, put in a Grizzly when the rear rubi grenaded, no issues, but I have been tempted by the 37's .....|
|01-28-2020 04:40 PM|
I blew my torsen gears a couple years ago and went with the E-locker. It has been working just fine turning 37's. I actually like it better than the stock since I now can use front or rear lockers independently. I just ignore the flashing light in the dash. It's only when using the front anyway... so no biggie for me.
Of course ARB will do the same. But I did not need to get a separate compressor.
|01-24-2020 07:59 PM|
Personally I think I'd throw in an ARB. That is my plan when my rubicon lockers someday go on me.
I mean the other thing to consider is a dana 60 but that is a big investment. So I'd stick with the Dana 44, ARB and some aftermarket shafts. I've had a few guys tell me the aftermarket shafts are easier on your carrier since they don't torque up as much.
|01-24-2020 09:11 AM|
Originally Posted by Mousejockey View Post
I am going to try and find a used Rubi locker to throw in, then sell the jeep. i have all new refreshed susp/steering parts within last month so perfect time to sell. With my kids being so young, and growing up fast, my time to work on the jeep is almost zero now.
I will spend the money on a new camper trailer for the fam and maybe a fitty bike for the kids to ride at camp. Jeeps come and go...this one will be a tough one to let go though.
|01-24-2020 08:53 AM|
IMHO, 36's are pushing it with a stock motor, toss in the LS and you found the next weak point.
ARB is a damn strong unit, but with that motor you may fall into the "Pirate" mentality and need to "Throw a 60 under it"
|01-24-2020 08:40 AM|
70 views and no response?
I would have thought someone would have experience ditching their Rubicon lockers (because they kept breaking) and upgrading to something else? Did it help?
|01-23-2020 03:40 PM|
2006 LJR replacement locker question
Last year with my 4L in my 2006 LJR, the stock rear locker LSD blew into bits going down the hwy. So I replaced it with a used Front rubicon locker. Well I just went to a fluid change on the diffs this week and little bits of the spider gears came out of the rear diff. So looks like that one is toast too . This time with my LS motor.
Questions I have. Will an ARB , Eaton or Grizzly /Detroit be as vulnerable? Are the spiders any stronger OR does the carrier beef things up?
I am at a crossroads what to do. I run 36" light TSLs on chromoly shafts. The front has NEVER been an issue. The rear seems like a liability with or without the 4L or LS motor....
So do I just upgrade the Locker/carrier? Will this solve the issue.
I am honestly thinking about selling it, once fixed, then save for a built TJ with LS and tons. I don't have the time or money to build axles at the moment