|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-14-2019 09:01 PM|
From what I have been able to ascertain, the Summit facia connects to the fender using a different method. I pulled on it, wiggled it, until the point where I thought it was about to crease or buckle so I backed off.
There is a plastic piece behind the trim which is held on by the 10mm bolt head, two push rivets and a metal clip at the bottom. With all fasteners removed, I could not remove that piece. It was loose but snapped into the upper fender trim and I could not twist it out as was described on on another forum. I was able to pull the top trim out far enough to release the tab on the lower plastic which snaps into the upper trim but that black plastic piece did not want to come out.
There seems to be a tab on the top side of that black plastic piece which goes up into the bumper facia, and that black plastic piece is then connected to the upper trim tabs. See pics in my other thread.. https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f309...moval-4373465/
|10-13-2019 08:05 AM|
Originally Posted by Coldfinger View Post
I did a Halogen to HID upgrade for the Low, High and Fog lights and an LED bulb upgrade on the Turn Signals using all GTR products. Super happy BTW. I took the front down like this and it made it so much easier. I didn't do all these at the same time, so had the front down several times and it was easy. At 6'5", 300lbs and 63 years old my fingers and arms are not small or nimble enough to navigate behind those lights so I've already decided that whenever I need to change a burnt one or something - the fronts coming off again. It really was that easy.
|10-11-2019 12:17 PM|
Summary of passenger side hid replacement on 2014 Summit.
I couldnt get the summit facia off. How it is held to the fender is a mystery to me.
I ended up removing the right front wheel, taking about half of the wheel well liner push pins out, as well as the upper 10mm bolt. I left the lower 10mm con the bottom because it was rusted and hard to remove. I also removed the round access hole cover so the liner would be more flexible.
I pulled the liner sort of down and back to get it out of the way, running a bungee cord around it to hold it back.
Now, have some good lighting so you can see up toward the headlight. It is way more accessible now. A second person holding a light would have helped a lot because I spent a fair amount of time trying to figure out where to attach my lights so they would illuminate the access hole yet not be in the way.
Coming up from below, sitting on the floor with my feet facing toward the front.
Had new bulb in left hand and carefully went around the left side of the plastic support brace and got the bulb pointed toward the hole.
Then, holding the bulb with left hand still, I reached around the right side of the plastic brace and carefully lined up the electrical connection and plugged it in until I heard it click into place.
Now, still holding bulb with left hand, I carefully guided it into the metal socket with the prongs. It was easy to see the orientation of the square metal on the bulb as well as the hole it needed to go into. Once I could see it was straight and square, felt and looked good, I gave it a gentle push ant it snapped into place.
Replace the headlight fuse and test your lights to make sure they work.
Now rotate the plastic locking ring clockwise about 1/4 turn. I found my home made tool pictured above helpful and used it to efforlessly turn the ring once I had it a little snug by using a finger.
Replace the round access hole cap.
Secure your wheel well liner. Install tire.
|10-10-2019 07:55 PM|
|Coldfinger||Here is a side view showing how much the black plastic ring protrudes from the silver housing which snaps into the metal prongs.|
|10-10-2019 07:46 PM|
Here is a pic of the socket. You can see the round pin at the lower left side of the hole.
The round pin is at the 9:00 position but the photo rotation is off because that pic was taken by using my inspection camera.
|10-10-2019 06:17 PM|
I am going to attempt to do my right side Summit bulb tomorrow.
First I will try to revove the facia. Just need to figure out how it attaches to front fender and how to disconnect it from fender.
If that doesnt work, I will remove the tire for more access. Then I will take enough plastic push pins out of the wheel liner so I can gain better access from below. Hopefully the access I gain there plus access from the top will allow me to replace the hid bulb.
For anyone who has replaced this d3s bulb, are they super fragile or can they touch the housing a little without fear of breaking the bulb?
When inserting the bulb into the holder, is it obvious when it is properly aligned before giving it a final push so it seats in the metal prongs? It appears there is a slot and another guide hole on plastic ring just below the bulb but I am not sure this contacts just before it touches the metal prongs.
Here is my old bulb pic
|10-10-2019 08:13 AM|
|ColdCase||The leveling motors are attached/built into the headlight housing. The removal/replace procedure is the same.|
|10-10-2019 07:28 AM|
|stevenriz||This is great info. Question I have, is all the same procedure with the HIDs that move up and down?|
|10-03-2019 10:16 PM|
Here is a video for a 2011-2013 jeep. At minute 5 it shows what the 10mm bolt goes into and how that cover needs to be lifted over the tab to release. Is this tab the same on my 2014, like I cant pull straight out until I get the cover over that tab?
|10-03-2019 09:58 PM|
Now, my jeep is more similar to the white jeep video except I dont have the black fender trim which needs to be separated. Mine is the Summit model with 3.6.
Oh, by the way, I tried to install the passenger side bulb which I removed to see how hard it would be to insert it straight without breaking the bulb or bending the metal holding tabs. I was not comfortable I could do this without breaking the bulb or bending some tabs. That is why I went to the bumper removal method.
Ran into a snag though. The right and left sides dont easily unsnap after the 10mm bolt and 2 push pins are removed. Is there a trick or do I pull straight out on it? I tried wiggling it as I was pulling out and didnt seem to be making any progress.
Anyone have good pics or video of that paticular fastening point which shows the connector? It would help by giving me more confidence how the piece disconnects from the body.
|10-03-2019 09:42 PM|
Here is another video which shows how to remove the bumer cover.
|09-29-2019 01:32 PM|
Originally Posted by Coldfinger View Post
|09-29-2019 12:34 PM|
Here is a good video which shows how to remove the front bumper and headlights if someone ever needs to do that.
|09-29-2019 10:47 AM|
Photo of tool
My tool to loosen and tighten the black plastic bulb retaining ring. It is a scrap piece of aluminum from my patio table and was already bent but doesnt need to be.
|09-29-2019 10:41 AM|
Thanks for the help. Knowing about the 2nd tab really helped. Very hard to get my fingers on both tabs so I fabbed a simple tool. Turn the ring counterclockwise to loosen, about 1/4 turn. The bolts protrude approx 2 1/4” from the flat and are approx 2 1/4between them. The flat part rests on the round rim of the access hole and the bolts go on the bottom side of one tab and on top of the other. Makes it super easy to turn the ring.
I did the drivers side and assume it will work just as easily on passenger side. I didnt actually remove the bulb because I need to order them. HIDconcepts has those exact bulbs 2pk for $106. I may order 1 for a few $ more and if the light output is much brighter than my good one, I will order another to replace the working one too.
To remove the bulbs after the ring is loose, do you disconnect the wires first or can you do it after bulb is out of housing?
Also, assuming once the ring is loosened, just pull firmly straight back to remove bulb, correct?
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