|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|Today 05:53 AM|
Originally Posted by Axhammer View Post
As far as the paint gun goes, I honestly have no idea. I only have the harbor freight purple gun that I have used here and there. I don't think I want to lay paint with that but I know many people who have done a really nice job using that gun.
I've been in the process of finding shops around town quoting... but most places tell me "we only do insurance claims right now". I'm down to two places to check out, one of them is well known and most likely the most expensive and the other I'm going to be in contact with soon. Either way, they both sound expensive, and the girlfriend doesn't like that idea lol!
|Today 05:51 AM|
Originally Posted by Jmaas View Post
|Yesterday 04:32 PM|
That transmission & transfer case work is great. Itís coming together nicely, good job!
As far as painting your tub goes. Metallic can be a little tricky, but the technique I was taught, is to turn the pressure up a little, dial the fan into a round pattern, and back off a little, and then dust the surface until the metallic is spread out evenly. This is done at the end, after the final coat has been applied. The metallic particles separate from the paint, due to the higher pressure and distance from the surface. This technique works and itís pretty easy to get the metallic spread out and dispersed evenly without metallic streaks. This is an old school technique using an old school gun.
What kind of paint gun are you going to use?
|Yesterday 02:34 PM|
|Jmaas||Thanks. I got the deep pan a long time ago and it wasn't anodized, so I'm jealous of how that one looks. I think I'm going to powder coat the case since I have the setup to do it and leave the aluminum parts alone after cleaning.|
|Yesterday 01:39 PM|
Originally Posted by Jmaas View Post
For the pan and front bearing retainer, I got those from Novak's website. Those are machined aluminum with an anodized coating from Novak, so I didn't paint those.
Overall, the dana 300 wasn't hard to rebuild. Just take your time and be patient. There are many youtube videos on how to rebuild it, I suggest watching a few videos and then reading though the rebuild manual before actually rebuilding. I think it gives you an opportunity to see it before you get into it and the manual will have the right torque specs. I never found videos with the right torque specs. Good luck to you!
|Yesterday 11:59 AM|
Good stuff. What parts on the Dana 300 did you powder coat and/or paint? That pan looks like it has a coating on it. The next thing on my list is to rebuild the Dana 300.
|Yesterday 06:35 AM|
For the first time in 2.5 years, it's actually starting to turn into a Jeep again! I wanted some garage space back so I decided to set the body on the frame. I just need to get some dollies so I can move the whole jeep to do some light body work. Just a few more dents and I need to fill some holes from added screws. No big deal. For the most part, the Jeep is on the back burner... It's freakin hot most days and very humid and working in the garage is just unbearable, even with a shop fan on high.
I acquired another T5 transmission for basically free, I just had to pay shipping. I tore it apart to see the inside and it looks really good. My plan is to put new bearings in it and just clean it up. I may set it on the shelf for awhile to keep as a spare in case something goes wrong with my original. I'm confident in my work but I can also sell the trans as well, I just don't know its value.
I decided on a color, 4C Ice Blue Metallic. That was the original and I want to keep it as close to original as I can. I'm saving more money for a body shop to paint it. If the price is too high, I'm learning how to paint with metallic.
|06-10-2020 06:02 AM|
I didn't post anything about rebuilding the Dana 300. I think its well covered by many others and it would just be redundant here. Anyways, to eliminate any surprises like the transmission, I bought the Novak master rebuild kit. It was a very complete kit and I highly recommend. I also decided to get a little flashy and got the Novak billet pan (image 1) and front output bearing retainer (image 2). The bearing retainer has an o-ring that helps keep the cover from leaking which is great because that was a leaking point on mine. Novak's master rebuild kit includes a hardened intermediate shaft which has a double o-ring to prevent leaking. I'm very pleased with the kit and would highly recommend.
Now that the work bench is cleaned up, its time to take apart the clutch/ brake assembly and various other parts to be blasted and powder coated. I haven't done much with the tub yet. Still deciding what to do and saving money to do it... and the garage needs to be cleaned again!
Here is the finished products
|05-27-2020 04:22 PM|
, here is under the roll bar mounts in the front. The rears look just like the front. They have little rust. I took a screw driver and dug around and no holes or flakes of rust came about so once I decide on what I want to do on stripping the paint, we will see how well the area holds up.
@Axhammer , to answer your question about the chemical stripping, it's basically like hot tanking a engine. The place I take it to doesn't have a post dip to prevent rust but they keep it inside until it's picked up. They suggest priming it as soon as possible to prevent flash rust but I've had parts in the garage for over 6 months with no primer and no rust has appeared.
If I go the sandblast route, a company is going to do it. I'd kill my air compressor doing that lol
|05-26-2020 03:18 PM|
Nice tub. Itís hard to believe it isnít rusted under the roll bar mounts.
I havenít heard of that method you refer to, ďdipping it in a chemicalĒ for stripping paint? If you do dip it to strip it, you better dip it to prime it, so you donít leave any bare metal in any blind, or hard to access areas.
I sandblasted my 1969 Firebird back in the late eighties when I first bought it. That was a lot of work, messy work, but I definitely removed all the paint and rust when I sandblasted it myself. I used a chemical stripper to strip the paint first. Then I sand blasted the metal to get it clean, some refer to as ďwhiteĒ metal. I sandblasted a 1971 Chevy shortbed pickup about five or six years later. I blasted the frame, bed, cab, tailgate & doors. I had access to better equipment when I did that truck, so I didnít have to chemical strip it first, but it was still a lot of work.
There are companies that specialize in this type of work now, and there are different mediaís being used to strip paint as well. For example, walnut shells, soda, plastic, sand, are some of the media I am familiar with, so there are some choices out there, but I guess it depends on what you can find locally, depending on where you live.
I think the most important part of the stripping process is getting a good, high quality primer applied before the bare metal gets a chance to start rusting again. And then, If you pay someone to do it, you have to go over what was stripped and primed for missed rust...thatís the biggest problem with hiring someone else to strip it and prime it. You have to trust they will do it right. You can damage the sheet metal if your equipment has the power, it will warp or collapse it if you arenít careful.
Having said all of that, I will hire someone to do it for me when I pull the tub off my 1985 CJ-7, in the not to distant future. It will get done much faster, saving time and effort on my part. I donít have the energy to do this stuff like I used to.
|05-26-2020 09:54 AM|
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
As far as the dipping process, I'm not 100% sure if they coat it. I've had the rest of the Jeep dipped and sitting in the garage in bare metal and it hasn't shown any rust yet but I know if water gets on it, it starts to get surface rust. The tub fits in the garage and I can still get my Ranger in as well, so it will always be covered. If I have to put epoxy primer on it, I can always do that until I pick out a body shop. I'm just unsure if dipping the tub is necessary given that there hardly any rust.
As for paint... That's a huge debate. The original paint is 4C, Ice Blue Poly. I really like the 2D, Deep Night Blue but seeing the tub in 5C, Red Metallic I don't know what I like best. I have original, unused, silver Laredo decals I want to put on it. I just know what would look best. I want 1985 colors but I also want the Laredo decals to look as if the color combo was from the factory. I still have time to figure it out
|05-26-2020 08:58 AM|
|Jim1611||Have you checked under the roll bar mounts for rust? I'm not sure what I'd do on the paint. If the place that does the stripping also could dip it to protect the bare metal you'd be way ahead over sandblasting, I think. Sandblasting is allot of work if you do it yourself. I'd tend to want to find a place to do that job for me. Nice tub! What color is the final product going to be?|
|05-26-2020 08:34 AM|
Got a tub and a review of Rudy's CJs
Over the memorial day weekend, I took a 2.5 hour drive up to see Rudy's CJs and came back with a tub! I have been waiting for something this nice to come along for over two years. After digging into the tub that came off my Jeep, it was just more cost effective to replace the tub.
This tub came from Arizona and has some sun fade and a couple dents here and there. The best part about it is, there is not a spot of rot on the tub. Maybe a little surface rust here and there but no rotting or rust holes. The pressure washer did quick work getting the bottom and inside cleaned up.
Rudy was extremely nice and showed me what all he does and took me on a tour of his place. He has A LOT of OEM Jeep stuff that is in great shape. He may be a little expensive for some but the quality he has is superior to most aftermarket. He can even ship some parts for those who cant just take a quick trip like I can. There are certainly many people out there with great OEM Jeep parts but if anyone needs a review of Rudys CJ, I would recommend him and I will buy from him again.
I would also like some advice on what to do.. Sandblast or chemically dip to remove the paint. I honestly don't know what would be better
|05-22-2020 05:26 AM|
Originally Posted by MetalMountainGoat View Post
|05-22-2020 12:10 AM|
The Koyo Bearings plant is right down road from me. Just so you know, Koyo bought Timken about a decade ago, so more than likely the races and the bearings were all replaced, just probably were made during the transition and had some parts stamped Koyo and some stamped Timken coming together as one final assembly.
...or, someone only changed the bearings, not the bearing races (but that would be a strange thing to do in my opinion)
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|