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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-26-2019 09:07 PM
Louie4 As a follow up, that pass side or long side shaft has in and out play. The short side does not but doesnít seem to bind.


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08-26-2019 06:55 AM
Louie4 I will source some Ford outers and see what comes of it. Probably just buy some chromos to match.


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08-25-2019 10:23 PM
jsawduste Louie, Cobra Jeep said it right. The snap ring keeps everything tight to the spindle seal. You really do want it.

With all the different combinations mentioned here I got lost on just what you have.
08-25-2019 08:02 PM
timatoe Thanks for the clarification.
08-25-2019 06:54 AM
Cobra Jeep
Quote:
Originally Posted by timatoe View Post
I personally think the snap ring is to prevent the shaft from wandering into the diff too far and getting into the spider gears. I've had a clip come loose and hang out in the hub for who knows how long before I found it without any issue.
The inner shaft moving into the diff will not harm the spider gears. The spiders do not have blind splined holes, they go all the way through. When you push the shaft all the way in, it simply bottoms out on the crosspin.

The point of the c-clip is to keep the outer shaft pulled out towards the hub, this pulls the spindle seal against the backside of the spindle to keep it sealed.
You can run without it. However without it, the spindle seal will not seal as good as it should, and some cases, maybe not at all. That would only really become a issue if you plan on water or mud, as without it sealed, it can leak in there. The water and mud will kill the spindle bearing, and start working it's way into the hub and kill the wheel bearings.

Now for the OP's problem. There should be some in-out movement of the shafts. Without the snap ring in place, you should be able to reach into the knuckle and grab the u-joint and move the inner/out axle assembly in and out around 1/8 of a inch to 1/4 of a inch.
Every one I have worked on, I have had to reach in the knuckle and push the shaft out to be able to get the snap ring on.
If yours is solid and there is no in-out movement, there the shaft is in a bind. Most likely there is a tolerance stack up, and it seems to me as the inner shaft is bottoming out on the crosspin in the diff. This is pushing the outer shaft tight up against the spindle, preventing any in-out float of the shaft. With the mix of no original parts, it is hard to say where the issue is, because it might not be just one part, but a a tiny bit on a few parts.
The shaft should have a small amount of in-out "float". With the outer held in place by the snap ring up against the spindle, that should leave a small amount of free play in the inner shaft. As the knuckle turns when you steer, there is usually a very tiny amount of in-out movement of the inner shaft, it's just because of how the knuckle moves through it's arc. Without this movement, there will be pressure against the shaft, cross pin, u-joint, and spindle seal/bearing. I can see this possibly causing issues down the road.
My guess is you might have to trim a little off the end of the inner axle shafts to give yourself some free play.
08-21-2019 10:25 PM
Louie4
Quote:
Originally Posted by timatoe View Post
I personally think the snap ring is to prevent the shaft from wandering into the diff too far and getting into the spider gears. I've had a clip come loose and hang out in the hub for who knows how long before I found it without any issue.


I tried to shove the shaft in further (giggle) but itís as far as it will go.

Iíll report back on the finished product. I welded the threaded inserts for my tie rod this evening.


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08-21-2019 10:09 PM
timatoe I personally think the snap ring is to prevent the shaft from wandering into the diff too far and getting into the spider gears. I've had a clip come loose and hang out in the hub for who knows how long before I found it without any issue.
08-21-2019 04:30 PM
StrippedTorx Those ford stubs from 77’ on come in like three different lengths. With running the Chevy stubs you’re fine you’re just not going to be able to run that snap ring is all.

People have mixed emotions on it and start debates about it. Get your hands on some ford stubs and you will see.

But you can run them that way 0% issues.
08-21-2019 02:14 PM
Louie4 I believe so. Well I havenít ran it at all, still getting it ready.


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08-21-2019 04:13 AM
StrippedTorx CHEVROLET OUTER AXLE SHAFTS '73-87 Chevy K–10, Blazer Length: 9.94 Splines: 19 U-Joint: 297X 38815

FORD OUTER AXLE SHAFTS '71-79 Ford Bronco, F–150 Length: 9.72 Splines: 19 U-Joint: 297X PN 38816


Just Incase I’m missing something you’re running chev/Waggy stubs with knuckle out ford stuff?
08-20-2019 10:08 PM
Louie4 So as it stands, I bought this 1979 F-150 D44 from a guy who built it with Chevy outers and Waggy knuckles. I bought 1978 Ford Bronco spindles, caliper brackets and rotors/hubs and installed them on my Reid knuckles made for a 1978 Ford Bronco. The axle shafts are chromos for said Chevy/Waggy outers. The axle shaft cannot move any further into the housing nor can it really move out for that matter.

I have the larger retainer ring in and when I put the internal splines hub in it only went as far as the Splines and stopped. The outer shafts have two grooves.

I plan to run without the end snap ring unless I can find a reason itís needed given the setup I have. Even if the shaft fails, itís just floating in the spindle and cannot walk out. Same goes for a blown hub. Iím not trying to not do it the right way, Iím just trying to make sure I understand why I need it.
So far, the reasons have not been compelling given my setup. But I could just be glossing over something.

Thanks for the advice guys.


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08-20-2019 08:17 PM
wizekrakr One of the two retainers has to be in place, The large outer diameter one on the hub or the snap ring on the stub axle. I couldn't get the large diameter one in so I had to use the stub axle snapring. Otherwise the manual locking unit won't stay in there. Without going out and doing a complete manual hub removal to verify this I am just working off memory here.
08-20-2019 07:55 PM
TSEJEEPERS I ran quite some time with out the snap ring with no problems.
I have the opposite problem that you do. I actually have to put a pry bar at the u joint yoke and pry it out to have enough room to put the snap ring on.
I am running Chevy spindles and Waggy shafts.
08-20-2019 07:35 PM
wizekrakr One more thing. If you are not using the outside diameter snapring that goes on the outer diameter of the wheel hub to retain the manual hub assembly The only thing that is holding your manual hub in the wheel hub is that snap ring on the stub axle. Right?
08-20-2019 07:22 PM
wizekrakr Your picture might be deceiving but to me it looks like you have room between the snap ring and the inner hub components. So if the stub axle is going to float in towards the differential that space should have been eliminated when you took the soft blow to it. I have a similar set up. Chevy knuckles, small bearing chevy spindles, chevy 19 spline stubs and 78/79 ford hubs and i'm using Warn manual locks. I went out and took off a Warn manual hub and put a straight edge across the end of the wheel hub. The stub axle only sticks out past the straight edge about .020. Yours looks like it sticks out alot further. Like I said it could be the picture illusion. Thats something you can look at. Are any of your Ford parts from a full size Ford Bronco. I found out the hard way that FS Bronco Dana 44 parts will not work because of length differences.
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