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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-02-2019 03:48 PM
ShawnAtTomWoods You don't need a bigger joint, you need a new yoke. 1350 yokes for the Dana 44 exist but unless you are running a Dana 44 out of a JK a 1350 joint will end up being stronger than your differential. I can almost guarantee the problem is with the yoke itself being damaged or distorted. This a very common problem that tricks a lot of people. You can find a very good explanation of what is going on by watching this video produced by Crawl TV.

07-28-2019 07:12 AM
biffgnar Just go to 1350 at the axle. With your extra power it makes sense. I've been running that for years and no perceived downside at all. Stay with 1310s in the double cardan joint though.
07-27-2019 08:12 PM
Trevlaw
Quote:
Originally Posted by astjp2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sduncan View Post
So everyone with an SYE and no angle on the diff end is experiencing the same thing I am? Because we all set them up the same, so we should all be having 1310 u joints with heavy wear on the trunnions due to no movement. ... follow me and where I’m going? If you’re not and your angle is the same or very similar to mine, then it’s NOT a movement issue. Remember.. I’m doing less than 500 street miles and 2 off road trips...

Most people have at least 1 degree because of torque when accelerating would otherwise cause vibration by twisting the axle pinion up. I have seen multiple shafts what have nice needle grooves in that pinion because the pinion never turned and the needles just vibrated and wore the pinions.
Did they also have equal length upper and lower control arms to get zero pinion plunge, or did they just have zero suspension movement at all times?
07-27-2019 07:57 PM
astjp2
Quote:
Originally Posted by sduncan View Post
So everyone with an SYE and no angle on the diff end is experiencing the same thing I am? Because we all set them up the same, so we should all be having 1310 u joints with heavy wear on the trunnions due to no movement. ... follow me and where Iím going? If youíre not and your angle is the same or very similar to mine, then itís NOT a movement issue. Remember.. Iím doing less than 500 street miles and 2 off road trips...

Most people have at least 1 degree because of torque when accelerating would otherwise cause vibration by twisting the axle pinion up. I have seen multiple shafts what have nice needle grooves in that pinion because the pinion never turned and the needles just vibrated and wore the pinions.
07-27-2019 07:47 PM
Trevlaw
Quote:
Originally Posted by sduncan View Post
So everyone with an SYE and no angle on the diff end is experiencing the same thing I am? Because we all set them up the same, so we should all be having 1310 u joints with heavy wear on the trunnions due to no movement. ... follow me and where I’m going? If you’re not and your angle is the same or very similar to mine, then it’s NOT a movement issue. Remember.. I’m doing less than 500 street miles and 2 off road trips...
You know how your suspension is set up, if going to a 1350 doesn't decrease your performance or it does just to a reasonable amount to you then I see no reason not to go to a 1350.

There's no correct angle measurement for setting the pinion, the correct angle is the one it doesn't vibe at. I had to adjust mine close to 20 times between 3* low and 1* above in 1/8th turn increments on my uppers to get it to not vibrate, and I can't tell you what my angle is because it doesn't matter. I can tell you 2* down vibed like crazy though along with the other 18 tries

I've had to change my centering ball twice, u joints in the double cardan once, and a new h yoke from rebuilding it so much in less than around 30k miles because my operating angle is at 21*. So I can definitely see hard dune and street driving with high hp taking a toll on the 1310s. Before anyone asks, I'm running the TW U joints because of the warranty, inlcuded in original price, and so I can grease them every oil change to try and maximize the life of them. I might try sealed 1310s next(I've used them before on other shafts) but I doubt it will make much of a difference.
07-27-2019 04:26 PM
sduncan So everyone with an SYE and no angle on the diff end is experiencing the same thing I am? Because we all set them up the same, so we should all be having 1310 u joints with heavy wear on the trunnions due to no movement. ... follow me and where Iím going? If youíre not and your angle is the same or very similar to mine, then itís NOT a movement issue. Remember.. Iím doing less than 500 street miles and 2 off road trips...
07-27-2019 04:20 PM
astjp2 No angle on the diff end will cause the needles to not move enough and cause advanced wear. You also lose droop with a 1350 if that is a factor in your driving. @Jerry Bransford is giving sound advice, you are not breaking, you have wear.
07-25-2019 10:39 PM
Vinman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy-WhiteTJ View Post
If your yoke uses the U-bolts and you're tightening them down too tight, it will wear the U-joints prematurely.

Ask me how I know...
And even the straps will cause premature wear of the u-joints if over tightened. In theory they shouldnít but in reality they do.
07-25-2019 07:15 PM
Fourtrail How did the needles look? Dropping a degree on your rear cv shaft shouldn't cause any vibes.



i agree with jerry about not needing more than 1310's. i have a healthy v-8, dana 60's and 42's and 1310's that last just fine.
07-25-2019 04:56 PM
sduncan All 4 trunnions are showing wear. And at speed there is zero vibration. I doing want to introduce a vibration as Iíd be getting one issue over another. Anyway.. if I remember correctly Iím already down a degree or two now. Iíd rather replace u joints than put up with a vibration. I understand what Jerry is saying.. but remember.. Iím running roughly twice the hp as a 6 cyl. 4.0.
07-25-2019 03:51 PM
Fourtrail
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy-WhiteTJ View Post
If your yoke uses the U-bolts and you're tightening them down too tight, it will wear the U-joints prematurely.

Ask me how I know...



This, are all 4 trunions showing wear or just the ones on the axle? Also, you may need to adjust the pinion down a few degrees. Under power you likely have a 0 degree angle on the ujoint, this will wear the needles in a single spot because there isn't enough angle to get the needle to rotate around inside the cap.
07-25-2019 03:28 PM
TJnBC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
I'd give that decision to go with 1350 a second thought. I'd go with, and did go with, nothing larger than a 1330. All my u-joints are 1330 and likely a 1310 would be fine for what I do... which is probably tougher than what 95% of Jeeps here ever see.
With an LS or HEMI I don't think upgrading to a 1350 shaft and yoke is unreasonable.
07-25-2019 03:09 PM
Jerry Bransford I'd give that decision to go with 1350 a second thought. I'd go with, and did go with, nothing larger than a 1330. All my u-joints are 1330 and likely a 1310 would be fine for what I do... which is probably tougher than what 95% of Jeeps here ever see.
07-25-2019 02:59 PM
Andy-WhiteTJ If your yoke uses the U-bolts and you're tightening them down too tight, it will wear the U-joints prematurely.

Ask me how I know...
07-24-2019 04:08 PM
sduncan
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJnBC View Post
I am running a 1350 rear shaft with my LS swap. Easy to find the 1350 Yoke for the D44

Pm me if you have no luck. My local driveline shop has Spicer and I can give you their info.

As for the ears hitting, just dremel/die grind the clearance you need.
Thank you sir.. I have a beach trip in 10 days so Iíll make it with what I have and then swap it. Iíll get a message to you.
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