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  Topic Review (Newest First)
02-08-2020 01:53 PM
michael72 Hello Everyone,

Since my choke issue is being addressed in a new thread:

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/i...grade-4386083/

I think it is time to close this thread out.

If someone new has gotten to this post, the best advice I can give you is to do some research on these forums before you ask your question. You will be able to ask better questions and your fellow members will be able to give you better answers. You can do whatever you are trying to do.

There is no way to tell the people that have helped me how important their advice has been to me. If I could try, I would say that I think about you when I drive my Jeep, you guys are a big part of the reason she runs the way she does.

Turning a wrench is easy, learning is the hard part. You are all great teachers.
02-06-2020 03:07 PM
Matt1981CJ7 Micheal,

I answered your choke question on your ignition thread.

Let me know if that helps,

Matt
02-06-2020 02:01 PM
michael72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Evenin' Guys,

As we all know, the factory lighting on our CJs leaves a lot to be desired, especially the headlights. The main problem is how they are wired. The power runs from the battery thru the dash to the switch, then from the switch all the way out to the lights. The factory used small gauge wires with highly resistive contacts for these lengthy circuits, which causes an excessive voltage drop at the headlights.


Matt
Matt,

Here is where I learned that the factory wiring wasn't great!
02-06-2020 01:48 PM
michael72 Hello Everyone,

No power to the choke.

Based on how you explained how it should be working, I decided to check.

Did some research to get the basics of how it gets power so I tested it with the engine running.

I think the wiring is correct, please take a look and let me know where to go.

Choke power is spliced in between that relay and the oil pressure sending unit?
02-05-2020 11:33 AM
John Strenk I'm not sure if the relay will help with the voltage drop but it will make his light brighter.

If it takes the load off the rest of the circuit were the battery voltage is monitored then it would help.

i would check to see how the voltage directly on the battery is effected when turning on the lights.

If the voltage drops on the battery then the relay won't help you. If the voltage goes up then adding the relay will help.

Don't use the voltmeter on the dash. Use a voltmeter directly on the battery terminals.

Poor connections and poor grounds can trick the alternator into putting out more voltage than needed potentially overcharging the battery.

At one time, when I had my lights and heater on full the voltmeter would read 14.5 volts on the dash but the battery voltage was almost 16 volts.
Running new grounds and including the alternator settled that down.
02-05-2020 09:00 AM
Matt1981CJ7 Michael,

The high idle should stay engaged until the choke's thermal spring heats up (usually 2-3 minutes). Once that happens a pump on the throttle should kick the idle down to normal RPMs. It will not kick down automatically.

The idle drop with the headlights on is concerning. You should consider doing the headlight relay upgrade to eliminate that problem.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/j...ation-2130225/

Matt
02-04-2020 12:29 PM
michael72 Hello everyone,

I am done!

I have some questions about the "fast idle speed" and the choke.

- I am setup at 1500 RPMS when I pump the accelerator once and she starts right up.

- Should the idle drop down by itself as it warms up?

- If I tap the accelerator, the RPMS drop to 660.

- When she gets warmer, idle goes up to 700 RPM.

- When she is fully warmed up, idle goes up to 740 RPM.

- I decided to leave the hot idle at 740 RPM because the idle drops about 40 RPM when I turn the
headlights on. With the headlights on, right at 700 RPM.

I mentioned that I was having some hesitation still while cold. I found an old Weber troubleshooting manual that recommended tightening the intake manifold bolts. I went after the ones that you can see and found three loose. The one closest to the passenger compartment was just about finger tight. Tightened up the loose ones, hesitation when cold is gone.

I put together a fuel tank overhaul and sent it on for proofreading.

I am itching to do the ignition upgrade so I will start a new thread and post a link here sooner rather than later. I will finish out this thread with a whole bunch of thank you's and some advice for other new members.
01-29-2020 09:45 PM
michael72 Hello everyone,

Back on the road.

The hesitation on the way home from the throttle linkage coming loose trip turned out to be a torn manifold vacuum hose.

In previous posts, I was looking for a vacuum source for the TAC and found a plug on the end of the existing manifold vacuum fitting that I was able to remove and put another barb in. The barb was too big and the hose gave out. I found a fitting with a smaller barb and all is well now.

I think I have the choke set correctly. This one has got me for some reason. If it isn't right tomorrow, I will explain what I am doing wrong.

My throttle stuck at around 1500 RPMs twice tonight, tapping the gas pedal dropped it right down. My instinct is that I did not get that throttle linkage right when I put it back together. If someone has a picture of what their's looks like, it will help.

Replaced the charcoal canister.

I will know if the choke is fixed in the morning, if not, I will let you know. I will address the linkage when I get home and take off the air cleaner.

I have to go get my hair did and I have to get on the highway to get there. I am going to take the Jeep. I am going to bring some tools and my coveralls but I am confident she will make the trip without a problem.
01-27-2020 02:16 PM
Matt1981CJ7 Michael,

I always prefer separate threads for specific problem solving or informational purpose.

Sometime great information gets buried in lengthy "build" threads, and it becomes difficult to find in searches.

So, now you know the important difference between ATDC and BTDC. I knew you were a quick learner, my friend.

Matt
01-27-2020 12:15 PM
michael72 Gentlemen,

I had some family come into town so I took a break.

I have been listening to you guys before you gave me the timing advice. I always do my homework before asking a question and you senior guys are all over the place answering timing questions. The mark wasn't there.

After a long hands-on-hips stare at the floor, I decided to try again. I still could not see the mark on the harmonic balancer. I pushed down on the throttle and I saw the mark come up from underneath the bracket below the 0 degree mark. The timing was about 20 degrees out. Set at around 12 degrees ATDC. Not an expert on timing yet but I am guessing that was a problem.

First test drive was a huge success! All problems gone! While taking a friend on a drive that night, the throttle linkage came loose. Fixed quickly on the side of the road. She started hesitating a little on the way home.

I am going to tune my carburetor again from scratch and then check in.

Is there something I did wrong with the linkage? I saw that other people had trouble so I made sure it was secure.

Forum Etiquette Question:

I am going to do a write-up for Matt about a fuel tank overhaul, should I start a new thread? I am going to start on the ignition system next and was wondering if I should start new threads for each project.

Learning is something that is encouraged by the senior members and I would like to help.
01-24-2020 12:13 PM
Matt1981CJ7 Hey Michael,

Are you getting anywhere with this?

Matt
01-24-2020 08:01 AM
Shawn Watson You said you didn't see a mark on the pulley. You meant balancer, correct? There should be a "hash mark" on the balancer that sweeps under your timing indicator at TDC. You've just got to make sure it's TDC on the compression stroke and you can do that by putting a finger over the #1 plug hole and bump the engine around with the solenoid until it pushes against your finger and then finish spinning the engine around by hand until that hash mark lines up with "0" on the indicator. Then check the location of the rotor in relation to the #1 terminal on the cap.


Shawn
01-24-2020 07:12 AM
Matt1981CJ7 Elvis has it correct.

You need to confirm TDC of the compression stroke in the #1 cylinder aligns the timing marks to 0, and the rotor points to #1 at the distributor.

Matt
01-23-2020 06:30 PM
ElvisDaDog Well.....how is the motor running? Somewhat smooth? Assuming that it IS running, you're in the ballpark. But just to double check, give this a shot:


Take the spark plugs out and rotate the engine by hand until the crank pulley mark lines up with the indicator. Make sure that you look down the spark plug hole and #1 piston is at top dead center. Assuming this is the case, the rotor on the distro should be pointing at the #1 terminal (6:00 position).


This will get you in the ballpark where you should be able to see the timing marks. What kind of timing light?


-Steve
01-23-2020 02:45 PM
michael72 Gentlemen,

Back to square one today. Timing and carburetor.

When trying to set my timing, following Matt's steps from another post, I do not see any pulley mark going by to adjust my timing by. Everything is clean so I can see the timing marks when the engine is running.

I saw some threads about people having their timing out 180 degrees but I got lost and decided to ask for help. I am hesitant to start turning the distributor until I know where I am at.

Any advice?
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