|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|Yesterday 06:18 PM|
Originally Posted by TomParham View Post
|Yesterday 09:59 AM|
|TomParham||It looks like the inside top mirror mount is where the rubber door weatherstrip will be attached.|
|07-11-2020 12:01 PM|
|NashvilleTJ||I agree, that guard makes a big difference in the look of the front end. Nicely done. The steering wheel came out nicely as well.|
|07-11-2020 06:05 AM|
Just still doing little jobs before I get into the next part of the build.
I will be running the donor steering wheel, along with the rest of the interior, as it has all the stereo, satnav, information screen and cruise controls etc on it. Never been keen on the amount of beige on the Limited's steering wheel though.
Thought first to just dye the non-leather parts to match the dark slate colour that the top of the dash is etc. You can see a piece of it on the left spoke.
In the end I just went all satin black instead to match the top of the steering wheel. The beige was also really hard to clean as showed up everything, so might as well get rid of it all. I could have gone all dark slate grey too like my 2010 Jeep KK Cherokee, but went the black like some of the SRT versions. Black supposed to be slimming right!
Another thing that has always annoyed me was the exposed fan to steering box lines and hoses. I thought about shortening them but noticed it was on the Jeeps with the hydraulic fans as a way to isolate and vibration being transferred to the steering box. Not for cooling as one would think as it already has a separate cooler and would have been all done in hard line at the very least if so. Even though this is all the same as stock, having a shorter bumper than the donor makes it more obvious and vulnerable when off-roading.
I still had the damaged fuel tank skid plate where they had used a fork lift at the auction yard to move the Jeep around. Thought I could straighten what I need and make the guard from this.
I just used one section from it and flipped half of it over to make it long enough. Thought with the pressings like this it looked more 2008 OEM which the rest of the drivetrain is from.
Think that offers some good protection and looks better too. I left to area above the cross-member open as it is behind the bumper and want the airflow over the engine sump.
|07-04-2020 05:38 PM|
Been looking at what mirrors to run that will be functional as well rather than just look cool. So that ruled out your peep mirrors as too small and not stable enough once on an arm long enough to see past back of the cab which is wider than the front. So settled on the good old West Coast Jr. mirrors that I got off Amazon, but are sold through Summit Racing, JEGS and eBay etc as well. K-Source H3541.
They come with a push in plug and galvanized self tapping screws to attach them which you can see in the picture. I decided to plug weld some flat steel bar, a bit larger than the mirror arm mounting surface, under the door skin and drill and tap them for some stainless button head screws.
I also replaced the galvanized arm bolts with stainless button heads as well.
The top of the door had some more flat welded in and tapped. I cut the mounting screws so they would be flush with the back of the flat bar. I was worried the depth of the supplied plugs and screws might hit the door frame.
These are fully adjustable as the arms can slide in and out of the mirror head as well as the door arms. The flange nut compresses a rubber like sleeve that slides over the tubing. I pushed the lower door arm in as far as it would go as well as into the top of the mirror to get it to sit as high as possible. Then adjusted the top door arm until the mirror was exactly vertical and the lower arm into the mirror until the arms were dead level.
The arm ends are hinged which works well as the cab tapers inwards a lot on these Willys Trucks.
The stainless screws look much better than what was supplied. I mounted it so the bracket was inline with the back of the forward door frame.
They are very stable and give a great view rearwards which will be needed as will be doing a lot of towing with my offroad camper trailer. It also pays to check to make sure the mirror glass is well seated as there were reports of them falling out even while still in the box. Mine look very secure so maybe they have responded to the complaints.
We have ears! Sorry but hard to see them with so much going on in the background!
|07-01-2020 06:10 PM|
Thanks for the suggestions all.
The only body colour planned at this stage is the top 4" of the firewall from the pinch weld to the top of the cowl where the bead roll is. Even the area around the latch and the back of the grille will be satin black. Don't know if that changes anyones ideas or not?
I did think about coating it the same as the coil covers and would have waited until this was done and have it done together, probably for the same price.
|07-01-2020 09:47 AM|
I think you should do it to match the valve cover color, and the crossover dimple die'd piece should be body color. Or colour, (or Couleur-si tu préfères)
|07-01-2020 09:07 AM|
|daddyjeep87||At first I was pretty amazed at how good that "W" turned out. Then I remembered who's thread I was reading and would expect nothing less from you. Looks great. I am leaning towards the satin black myself. It would then just be, yet another, subtle detail.|
|07-01-2020 07:19 AM|
Nice touch. My first thought was to go with your satin black, but the embossing may stand out a bit better in body color.
Edit: Sorry Marcus, I meant to type “colour.”
|07-01-2020 04:25 AM|
Want to cover what is left after I plastic welded the fan/radiator support together. This was damaged in the accident that wrote off the donor Grand Cherokee. Be good to rid the area of some more plastic as well.
Found some old tin that will be good enough for the job. I mainly free handed a 'W' in the same style as the one embossed into the factory tailgate.
Using the art dies that came with this Eastwood roller. Strangely they are slightly too narrow so that the end bolts don't have pressure on them. Only then relying on the grub screw which I don't like. I found the bosses from old 5" and 9" cutoff and grinding wheels have the right diameter to make good spacers.
I was going to add the 'O' behind the 'W' as well but quite like the simplicity of this. I didn't have a bead die small enough for the bead lines each side, so used the art dies for them as well. You just have to turn the piece around and run back over itself again to do the other side of the forming the bead. I also put a joggle in along one edge so some pinch rubber sat closer to flush and stiffened up the edge as well.
As I didn't do any pre-stretching, I had to do it post rolling. It is too hard to judge the perfect amount of stretch you need anyway before hand. I hammered each side of the bead work as well as from the other side using a bolster to get the stretch it needs to have it all sitting flat and without any twisting.
Just hammered the screw driver to stretch around the 'W' and round the ends of the beads etc.
Think it looks better than the damaged plastic and adds a little styling touch while tidying up the area.
Not sure if I will have it painted satin black like the rest of the engine bay, from the pinch weld down on the firewall, or do it body colour? But for now at least, everything is pretty much done in the engine bay as everything has been wired and plumbed too, as far as I know.
|06-29-2020 05:57 PM|
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
No problem. All we ask is that you screw something up at least once, so the rest of us can feel better about ourselves...
|06-29-2020 05:23 PM|
Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
|06-29-2020 05:22 PM|
Originally Posted by 99sajeep View Post
|06-29-2020 07:05 AM|
|NashvilleTJ||Really nice touch moving the crossover line. You definitely turned an ugly duckling intake into a swan.|
|06-29-2020 06:47 AM|
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
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