|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-20-2020 06:25 PM|
|jlcoble||Cant wait to see it|
|01-20-2020 04:23 PM|
Originally Posted by JoonHoss View Post
I started wiring on Sunday and will just be using the factory WH/WK loom from the donor. Just deleting circuits I don't need like for the back doors etc.
Originally Posted by jlcoble View Post
|01-19-2020 02:39 PM|
|jlcoble||Glad to hear you are safe as well. As usual amazing work. Did you make up your mind on what direction you were going on the bed? I'm sure it will look as amazing as the rest of your work. Keep on Keeping on I cant wait to see what you do next|
|01-19-2020 11:38 AM|
Honestly, I usually skip the videos on JF, but I'm glad I did not this time.
It's like staring at fine art.
Glad to hear you are a safe distance from the fires, bummer about the air, we get that in our area too from timeito-time due to wildfires. Unpleasant, but a minor inconvenience in the big picture.
(they ought to hand out axes and shovels to those who protested...but I digress)
Appreciate the look in, and I absolutely love the walls with the grills hung.
Do you plan to wire it up yourself as well? What's next on the to-do list
|01-19-2020 03:36 AM|
|01-18-2020 12:39 PM|
Agreed! Great choice on the wheels (please don't paint them black!) Very classic design, I had a set of actual Ansens on my 1956 GMC in high school, so I may be bit biased ;o)
The fenders? Amazing!
|01-18-2020 08:44 AM|
|NashvilleTJ||Great choice on the wheels. Thatís a good look for the rig. Also, good call on the fender mod. Much cleaner looking.|
|01-18-2020 05:04 AM|
Barely took a photo as was just repeating what I did on the other side inner guard.
But look what has finally been decided on. A new set of 5 wheels and tyres! These are American Racing AR969 Ansen wheels in 17x8.5" with +25 mm offset with 5x127 PCD to suit the Grand Cherokee donor axles. Tyres are Mickey Thompson Deegan 38 AT's in 265/70R17, (31.7x10.5").
A fair bit more truck like than the stock donor ones that is for sure.
Hotrod rubber rake! Couldn't wait before finishing the front, so quickly threw on a pair of rears.
Plenty of clearance to the frame rail. I liked the tread as more old school looking like a dirt track tyre. Modern tyres would look weird and didn't want the weight and noise/handling sacrifices of a mud terrain.
No problem with clearance to the swaybar. Tyre actually protrudes a couple of inches past the side grille.
One thing that did bug me with the wheel centre moved outwards, an inch each side over stock, is that the bottom of the peak no longer lines up with the middle of the tyre.
So first thing I did was hammer and dolly out the peak that ran three quarters of the way down the guard top from the bottom of the guard lip.
Came up pretty well considering no grinding, sanding, filing or shrinking was used. Just a paint strip disc to highlight what needed to be done. I was expecting to use the shrinking disc but there was more crown at the rear of the guard where there was no peak, so it was all the same crown in the end with the peak removed.
Then I hammered out the part that dipped down to give a smooth arc instead. Then trimmed back the excess from the lip to keep it even. Guard now looks even more like a hybrid between the flat nosed 48 and the later pointy nosed guards. Also removes the troublesome stress riser that the end of the peak created where they all crack in the end. So now have both inner guards finished and changes made to the outside as well.
I had my tyres fitted without any wheel weights. I prefer on my Jeeps, and even the camper trailer, to run stainless steel teflon coated balancing beads. They don't break down like the glass ones and I have been using them for about 10 years on my Cherokee without any problems and get better tyre wear. No ugly weights to see either! See my write up on my Cherokee if you want to know more. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/BalancingBeads.htm
I chose these tyres and wheels for the more old school smooth sides walls matching the wheels and 48 body. I looking for a classic looking wheel so billet was out and didn't want the extra 30% heavier weight of steel. 5 slotters were even offered from the factory on the Jeep J10 which took over from this body shape. These AR969's were also offered in a satin black which would give a more military feel to the build. Turns out there were none left in the country as they are no longer produced in this size, so was lucky to get any at all. Can always paint these later along with the body if it suits better, but might leave as is.
|01-17-2020 03:48 PM|
Originally Posted by jlcoble View Post
|01-17-2020 12:17 PM|
Better than factory build. You is a fine craftsman!
|01-16-2020 06:13 PM|
|jlcoble||Any new progress|
|12-21-2019 11:04 AM|
(But then, what else have we come to expect?!?)
|12-21-2019 09:51 AM|
Nice touch. That does give it a nice finished look.
|12-21-2019 05:18 AM|
I have a large gap to fill between the inner guard and the suspension tower.
I was first going to form the inner guard towards the tower but thought it would be better to extend the tower towards the inner guard.
This is hot rolled 2mm, 14 ga, thick steel to match the tower. I formed the compound curve inside this 150 year old gold stamper base. The multiple radiuses it has means there is always one that suits. They were there from different stamp head changes over the years of use. I just cleaned them up
I have left a gap all the way around as the tower is welded directly to the frame and the guard to the rubber mounted body.
After marking where the tower sits, I cut an even amount in from this ready for bead rolling. If you bead roll with an even amount next to it, the bead will form more consistently as it draws metal in from the edge.
I prefer to bead roll with the female die at the top in the bead roller so you can use one edge of the die to accurately follow. Too much room for error if you try to estimate the centre of the male die. So I am measuring half the distance of the die bead width from the centre of the black line.
I also turned down the flat area each side of the male die so I could get a deeper bead. For some reason the Chinese dies only the female side is full depth, but not the male side! So you can never get a full depth bead and it also means that it doesn't stretch the metal causing more distortion. I went as far as I could with multiple passes from one side before feeding in from other to complete the bead.
Still had a little stretching of the bead to do to sit flat across the top, but otherwise it did a better job.
The bead was made for two reasons. To greatly stiffen the inner guard around the opening, but also to sit some pinch weld rubber with a single top bulb in it.
The rubber seal handles all the movement between the body and the suspension tower, while also stopping road grime and track mud from coming in there.
Looks good enough from inside the guard too I think.
|12-03-2019 03:04 AM|
Wow man! You can be proud of your skills.
Thxs for the tip on the separation clip.
Keep up the good stuff.
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