|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|11-10-2019 05:19 PM|
Originally Posted by JoonHoss View Post
Engineers will often only approve shafts and unis from known and previously tested companies like Flaming River and Borgeson as well. I was going to go that way and the end of the column shaft was a standard 3/4" DD shaft, the the rack end was a rarer 17mm DD and couldn't get one of those that went to a 3/4" or 1" DD shaft. Only splined ends.
|11-10-2019 10:02 AM|
Does that go the same for aftermarket shafts? Are you allowed to cut stock one, and use aftermarket shafts and couplers?
|11-10-2019 09:27 AM|
Nice work on the steering solution, Marcus. Innovative approach on merging the two shafts. Interesting info on the certification requirements when modifying a steering shaft in Australia. Iíve hacked into mine more times than I care to remember, including welding on a couple of occasions. Iíll have to keep that in mind if I relocate down under.
As always, really enjoying the build.
|11-10-2019 03:25 AM|
Time to sort out the handbrake. I had drilled out all the spot welds from where the cables came into the cab under the donor's back seat. The threaded boss was where the fuel tank strap bolted in which you can see in the background on a separate bracket now as the fuel tank is only supported by the chassis and not the body.
Mounting the handbrake was easy as just bolted straight back where it was inside on the donor floor pan.
I ran the cable through the rear wall after fitting a grommet. It was easy to know where to mount the plate as it had to go directly over the existing fuel tank strap mount. The bolt even threaded into the original boss as well. Cables just hooked up as before and didn't even have to adjust the handbrake!
I also changed the resonator slip over couplings to V-band ones. I tig welded them on the inside only.
I did this to make it easier to drop the resonators out when changing the battery from below.
Working on connecting the steering shaft to the rack. As I moved the axle forward 175mm, (7"), I need a longer shaft. The hypotenuse length would have changed by 160mm, (5.25"), so that is how much longer the shaft needs to be.
The top shaft is what comes through the firewall and is collapsible by shearing a nylon pin in the event of an accident. The bottom connects to that to go to the rack and has a sliding section to take up any normal flex.
In Australia we are not allowed the cut and weld steering shafts without the added expense of the weld being x-rayed and certified by an engineer. So I went to the wrecking yard to pick up another Jeep shaft from a KJ Cherokee of the same year hoping I could use parts from that. It is the shorter, lower one of the two.
I figured that I could flip the Cherokee one and use the upper section for a new lower one as it was longer than the Grand Cherokee lower one. Was about 50mm, (2"), longer than I needed but have a plan for that.
I drilled out the nylon pin from the upper section, on the right, and pulled apart the sliding section to use the rubber boot from the lower part. What I am doing is turning the upper section into a sliding section and the extra length I don't need simply rides up further inside.
Now, to join my new piece to the Grand Cherokee upper, I had to remove the uni which is staked into place. I thought it would just push past the stakes but it popped the top of the uni cap right off instead! Fortunately this was not the uni I was going to use as I was just trialing my procedure
So I drilled the stakes being careful not to drill into the caps or take too much from the shaft ears.
The last little bit after this I used a small cold chisel to chip away the remainder. You only need to do one side.
Soaked some WD40 on the caps and picked a socket just smaller than the cap for the staked side and another just bigger to press the other side into.
Carefully pressed the uni cross across as far as it will go to the other side. Tapped the ears to help it move any time the pressure increased. Then removed the cap so I could remove the uni itself.
Once out the reverse was done to install the other shaft to it just like changing a driveshaft uni. I restaked it by squaring off a nail punch and then hitting it in different spots than before. I supported the opposite side cap to make sure it didn't try to punch out the other side.
So the old KJ Cherokee upper is the new sliding lower of the WH Grand Cherokee. It was well greased with marine grease and then the boot was fitted to keep out water. It slides as freely at the original lower section without any sidewards play
Slipped on the bearing support in the same place as when on the donor. Will mount it off the inner guard once I make them.
There is plenty of clearance with a minimum of 40mm, (1.5"), all round.
The running angles are actually less than stock as the shaft is now longer than before.
|11-07-2019 04:28 PM|
Glad it was helpful to you Jim.
On the colours, a couple of months ago there was a change of heart and have looking at going similar to a Willys color of the time called Smoked Ruby. Might end up with a Jeep color like Red Velvet or Red Rock Crystal, whichever is closer, with Black Diamond Crystal Fenders that the donor had.
I ran a 2" all steel cowl hood on my XJ for decades and looked at marine stainless vents before that.
My cowl hood.
Some information I gathered on vents and placement.
|11-06-2019 10:55 AM|
One Piece Window Installation
You are indeed a wizard and I appreciate you sharing your approach to the one piece window install. I had come up with the same idea you used for the front channel, that is using the rear channels from my donor doors to become the front channel. I plan to use somewhere around a half inch aluminum standoff on the front ones. I really like the jig you made up to put the radius in the door felt so you have a smooth transition. I am using refurbished pushbutton releases (with billet aluminum buttons), the factory door latches, and refurbished outside door handles just to keep it simple. Another question I have, the replacement kit from Kaiser Willys has a anti rattle/wiper for the inside of the door about 3/8" by 1/16" steel covered by rubber. There is no way I can see to be able to mount it. The outer felt is simple because it has the little snap clips to insert into the door.
In addition I will be using the CJ/Wrangler webstrap/doorstop with the little attached wiring harness to power the window lifts. By moving the mirrors to then cowl, I eliminated having to run power through the door. I will be using the console mounted factory switch to control the mirrors.
I will be putting a 34" x 54" fabric sunroof in my rig and am working on a support system to eliminate the possibility of the roof 'oil-canning'
I appreciate your sharing your solutions and expertise and look forward to the final product!
Are you still planning using GM Verdoro Green as your primary exterior paint? In 1968 I had a Javelin which was Matador Red with black vinyl roof, I really considered repainting my Javelin with that color but never did.
My exterior color, at this time, is PPG Vibrance Wineberry over charcoal. The hood is scheduled to get a 2.5" high cowl air induction hood along with stainless steel marine vents 2.5" x 18" along the lower edge of the rear of the hood to exhaust hot air.
Again, you are setting the mark for Willys Pickups!
Jim Thompson, Boerne, TX
|11-05-2019 04:10 PM|
Originally Posted by JimsWillysWagon View Post
I cover the one piece windows already in this write up. See here. https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...1/index17.html
|11-04-2019 09:58 PM|
Marcus, Tremendous build! I am building a 1955 wagon using AMC 360 from Grand Cherokee, Dana 44's from 1970s Cherokee, T 15 and Dana 20 from J10 pick-up. I assume from your build blog that you will be installing one piece door windows. I would find it very helpful if you would share your installation methods as this is my plan also. I will be using external power mirrors from a JK but will relocate them to the cowl region using the relocation kit from the Jeep parts catalog. I spent over three hours going through your blogs and I am amazed at the details you are accomplishing! Hope to hear from you soon.
|11-04-2019 03:17 PM|
Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
|11-03-2019 06:59 PM|
|NashvilleTJ||Great video, Marcus. One thing that struck me: do you have any issues with surface rust with all of that raw steel? My guess is that it must be pretty dry where you are.|
|11-03-2019 05:00 PM|
|11-02-2019 10:59 AM|
|NashvilleTJ||Great idea. When I was reading the beginning of this post, I'm thinking to myself, "how is he going to get a hitch pin in there??"|
|11-02-2019 07:05 AM|
Still more frame changes! I lowered the spare tyre winch cross member down so that the top was flush with the chassis after coming up with a better idea to make the bed floor sit flat on the chassis later on. Then I saw an opportunity to reduce the rear overhang as well, so off comes the cross member.
Making a brand new one from 100x50x5mm, (4"x2"x3/16"), RHS. I like to include the end caps for the frame ends at the same time. It increases the weld area of the cross member itself while reducing the total welds needed to adding a separate cap later on.
Adding a new receiver hitch into the cross member like before.
Bevelled the cross member as well and the receiver for best possible weld penetration when doing a flush fit.
Welding completed. I always take photos before any grinding in case the certifying engineer needs to know the quality of the weld afterwards.
All ground flush ready to install. If I leave it like the stock configuration, the rear cross member is seen below the tailgate.
So what is different? Well when I dropped the winch cross member to make it flush with the top of the chassis, I saw that by going back to the original width cross member, and raising the hitch receiver height slightly, I could move the cross member forward by 75mm, (3"), over the tyre to help reduce the rear overhang. Should make a more balanced look the side profile of the bed once it is made.
The hitch receiver now acts as one of the supports for the tyre.
I also came up with a way to connect my Jeep jack handle to the tyre winch. I made this adapter that fits the winch end.
The adapter then just slots into the jack handle shaft.
Now a bit of time on the lathe for the next part. This is 304 solid stainless bar.
The machined part is the new hitch pin. I am making a extended hitch pin from a 304 stainless steel gate drop bolt.
I bored the end of the hitch pin collar an interference fit so I could press it onto the drop bolt.
The drop bolt has tangs normally for holding the bolt up when you swing open your gates. Well I have made it so it locks the pin into the closed position. The tang has to pass through a slot in the bolt support with the handle horizontal and then it locks tightly once the handle is down.
To slide the pin out you just twist the handle up and side it back. The pin collar acts as a stop against one of the bolt supports so it cannot be pulled out too far. Simple but effective.
The jack shaft rests nicely on the hitch pin too when winching the tyre up and down. You can see now it would have been hard to access the hitch pin if it had not been extended off to the side.
I noticed some flex in the winch cross member so have reinforced it.
|10-27-2019 06:02 PM|
Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
|10-27-2019 09:43 AM|
What a nice thread to follow GoJeep!
You can be proud of your job man!
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