JeepForum.com - Reply to Topic
Thread: ‘86 2.5l manual carb question Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 
 
 
   

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in










  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
07-25-2019 11:29 PM
BagusJeep John, good point.

When I started buying the Weber 38s I could not get a Redline kit without heavy import duties so I investigated the spacing of the bolts etc with an Australian supplier (free trade agreement with Aus) as there was no specific adapter listed in Aus. He came up with a Stromberg adapter plate (stromberg one side, Weber 38 other side) which came in a Redline packet but I have been wary of generalising ever since on adapters.
07-25-2019 04:52 AM
John Strenk Since it is a YF style carb, The Weber adapter that fits the 4.2 with the YF should also fit on the 2.5 with the YFA.
07-24-2019 11:52 PM
BagusJeep The 32/36 carb is the right size for a 2.5l, a bit small for a 4.2 but it has a more pronounced vacuum signature I understand which makes it more responsive and economical at low engine seeds (the 4.2 is not a revvy thing, it is long stroke) so suits some owners of the 4.2.

The question you need to ask is whether you need a manifold adapter and if so, which one (sorry, i do not have a 2.5 so have never attempted this) . They should be different for a 2.5 that had a single choke carb than a 258 with a twin choke so the kit numbers are probably not the same. Drop Redline a question and they are reputed to be helpful.
07-24-2019 01:31 PM
BootheelBoy I did the exact same thing to my 86 with 4 cylinder about 15 years ago. My Jeep has a Carter YFA carburetor on it from the factory. I kept the same carb and replaced the electric choke with a kit to change it manually. It has the coiled wire with cable inside. It is still working fine after all these years. The push/pull is mounted under the dash in line with the fan and heat knobs. As far a nuttering it mine didn’t have the stepper pins in the carb. All I had to do was run wires from the control module on the drivers side fender under the windshield washer reservoir to the distributor. It helped smooth out the engine. Shortly after doing that I replaced my old vacuum lines and simplified them down to the bare essentials. I can’t remember if I had to set the engine timing any different.
07-24-2019 12:43 PM
John Strenk
Quote:
Originally Posted by uptillnow View Post
I was just checking on this and find that the K552 is an electric choke (32/36 DGEV).
The K553 is the same, although a manual choke (32/36 DGV).

This is not a computerized choke, just a switched/keyed 12 volt source to the choke.

I highly recommend the electric choke. They work great and last a long time.

The manual choke, "cable" is twisted wires, and after pushing and pulling the strands start unraveling and begins to stick inside the outer sheathing. They don't pull the choke off all the way and don't push in smoothly after a while.

UTN
Quote:
Originally Posted by pedal2themetai View Post
Hi, AAAHHH Not.. if your choke cable is twisted wires then you have the wrong cable.. a choke cable should be a solid wire cable..
good luck
tim
Quote:
Originally Posted by uptillnow View Post
Tim,
It does sound like you've seen some choke cables in many vehicles.
And I agree that the "Morse" solid push pull cable is absolutely better than the twist cable used as a push pull. (solid push pull used in most all Marine applications)
The auto parts store I work at sells about 2100 of these twisted choke cables a year. These sales are very consistent from year to year. This is where my information comes from, I am saying the majority of the choke cables are twisted wire and don't last very long, (year or two).
"Good Luck"
UTN

$38.00 for a solid push pull
https://www.zoro.com/buyers-products...xoC-zQQAvD_BwE
If you had two of these cables hooked up, it would work just fine. one to pull open, one to pull shut, both connected at the same point.
07-24-2019 11:45 AM
uptillnow
Quote:
Originally Posted by pedal2themetai View Post
Hi, AAAHHH Not.. if your choke cable is twisted wires then you have the wrong cable.. a choke cable should be a solid wire cable..
good luck
tim
Tim,
It does sound like you've seen some choke cables in many vehicles.
And I agree that the "Morse" solid push pull cable is absolutely better than the twist cable used as a push pull. (solid push pull used in most all Marine applications)
The auto parts store I work at sells about 2100 of these twisted choke cables a year. These sales are very consistent from year to year. This is where my information comes from, I am saying the majority of the choke cables are twisted wire and don't last very long, (year or two).
"Good Luck"
UTN

$38.00 for a solid push pull
https://www.zoro.com/buyers-products...xoC-zQQAvD_BwE
07-24-2019 08:33 AM
pedal2themetai
Quote:
Originally Posted by uptillnow View Post

The manual choke, "cable" is twisted wires, and after pushing and pulling the strands start unraveling and begins to stick inside the outer sheathing. They don't pull the choke off all the way and don't push in smoothly after a while.

UTN
Hi, AAAHHH Not.. if your choke cable is twisted wires then you have the wrong cable.. a choke cable should be a solid wire cable..
good luck
tim
07-23-2019 10:43 AM
uptillnow I was just checking on this and find that the K552 is an electric choke (32/36 DGEV).
The K553 is the same, although a manual choke (32/36 DGV).

This is not a computerized choke, just a switched/keyed 12 volt source to the choke.

I highly recommend the electric choke. They work great and last a long time.

The manual choke, "cable" is twisted wires, and after pushing and pulling the strands start unraveling and begins to stick inside the outer sheathing. They don't pull the choke off all the way and don't push in smoothly after a while.

UTN
07-23-2019 02:23 AM
brian.donald Thanks for the reply... I looked that carb up and everything says 4.2l Jeep. Mine is a 2.5l. Before I order one I just want to double check that it is compatible with my motor
07-22-2019 11:17 PM
BagusJeep 32/36 dgv is manual choke version

the dgev is electric choke. you hook it up with 12V power through the oil pressure switch and then you need not bother again, unless it goes out of adjustment.
07-22-2019 07:56 PM
brian.donald Jeep newbie here. So I’m going to the nutter and want to switch out the carb to a non-electric choke carb. What is the best setup? I saw the k552 but that appears to have a computerized choke.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome