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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 07:15 PM
wingless The white salt crust on the @IMMORTEN ZJ explains the corrosion condition.

My ZJ was special ordered by me and operated by me in sand / salt New England roads for half it's life.

My practice was to hose down the bottom w/ hot water, then wash the vehicle after operation and dry it in a heated garage. The driveway would be sandy and icy at the car wash location.

When I relocated to the tropics. as would be expected the vehicle had some corrosion, but not horrible. I cleaned, sanded and painted bottom and exterior surfaces and all has been good.






Today 05:05 PM
nick613 Ya like all vehicles if you dont undercoat them and you have salt you are playing a dangerous game.

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Today 04:02 PM
Timo_90xj
Quote:
Originally Posted by IMMORTEN View Post
Seriously why did they make the ZJ in a way where water can get trapped inside of it, and on top of that not galvanize it in any way at all!?
Rockers have drain holes in them, the issue is most people didn't care to have the vehicle treated with any kind of body undercoating or protective film inside the rockers and other box sections. ZJ unibody/ uniframe materials are galvanized, it's very much evident when you weld these things..

As for the design, ZJ was introduced in 1992 for '93 model year, and design started in mid-to-late 80s. Most vehicles designed in that era and being as old as the newest ZJs are starting to be more or less rusty with the exception of a few manufacturers' making very good job at preventing rust.

Quote:
I guess most low end British, French and Italian cars werenít that different in 1998, now that I think of it

Nope, British and Italian cars are even worse than ZJs or XJs regarding rust and electrical issues Since the 80s, Peugeot and Renault actually have been unbeliavably good at NOT rusting.
Today 02:16 PM
IMMORTEN Itís actually so bad that it has started rusting from the inside several places. [emoji20]

I guess it really is time to start looking for another vehicle [emoji53]



Seriously why did they make the ZJ in a way where water can get trapped inside of it, and on top of that not galvanize it in any way at all!?

Thatís like 1970s / 1980s ways of making cars, but my Jeep is from 1998 and that is just unacceptable for 1998. Well I guess most low end British, French and Italian cars werenít that different in 1998, now that I think of it [emoji848]

But honestly, by the looks of things the button sills (I think thatís what they are called?) on both sides seems to be rusting from the inside and both needs to be cut out and have new metal welded on.

FML! [emoji53]


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Today 07:29 AM
IMMORTEN Holy moly Mr. rust hole has grown over the winter!! [emoji15][emoji15][emoji15][emoji15]

August 2019:



Today:







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Yesterday 11:45 PM
IMMORTEN
What did you do to your ZJ today?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcorr View Post

Geez talk about a blast from the past, the 2003 California assembly passed legislation that would effectively ban whistle tips in California.


Everything is illegal in California it seems like


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Yesterday 08:11 PM
Tomcorr [QUOTE=wingless;40882423]The @IMMORTEN tip is nice, it will probably outlast the vehicle, but a MUCH better option is the Whistle Tips, as described by Bubb Rubb and as shown in this video.

Geez talk about a blast from the past, the 2003 California assembly passed legislation that would effectively ban whistle tips in California.
Yesterday 12:33 PM
nick613 Took the zj for its first drive with the lift. Have a bit of a punch list to sort out for it to really be done but so far so good.

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Yesterday 11:10 AM
IMMORTEN
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingless View Post
The @IMMORTEN tip is nice, it will probably outlast the vehicle, but a MUCH better option is the Whistle Tips, as described by Bubb Rubb and as shown in this video.





Whistle Tips Go Woo Woo


I know I maybe over did the install a bit, but I just like to do a good job, and I like the satisfaction of knowing that I did it and itís done right....like you said; it will probably outlast the vehicle.

Just to be clear; it WAS one of those exhaust tips that had one of those whistle grills inside of it. I removed the whistle grill using different drill bits and side cutters.

I am not going to be driving around making fake turbo sounds [emoji846][emoji23]


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Yesterday 10:22 AM
BRBauer2
Quote:
Originally Posted by terpsmandan View Post
Found that my 98 TSi had not had the gas tank recall done. Didnít come with tow package from the factory so now I get a free trailer hitch-gas tank defender.....👍
Bought our '97 with a faulty fuel gauge, found out it had an open recall for the pump. Had a new OEM one installed by the dealer for free! Also had the trailer hitch recall checked and it was good so I got a $100 Visa gift card instead of a new hitch.

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Yesterday 09:49 AM
wingless The @IMMORTEN tip is nice, it will probably outlast the vehicle, but a MUCH better option is the Whistle Tips, as described by Bubb Rubb and as shown in this video.


Yesterday 08:12 AM
terpsmandan Found that my 98 TSi had not had the gas tank recall done. Didn’t come with tow package from the factory so now I get a free trailer hitch-gas tank defender.....👍
Yesterday 07:56 AM
IMMORTEN
What did you do to your ZJ today?

While I am waiting for my fuel tank straps and other bits and bobs to arrive, I installed a new stainless steel exhaust tip today, because I was getting tires of looking at the old rusty one.

This was the old one:





It was literally so rusty that it had started to fuse disintegrate.

Hereís the new stainless steel one I installed:





The tip is a cheap boy racer one from Biltema, that I modified by drilling out the turbo whistle and drilling out the mounting holes using a step drill to accept M6 bolts.

The way I mounted it was; I cut the old rusty one off using a cutting disc; then drilled two 8mm holes for the M6 stainless steel rivnuts, then mounted the tip with exhaust paste and two stainless button head M6 bolts.

I like the button head bolts because they give a more cleaner look than the HEX head ones it came with.

Then first tightened them when the Jeep was cold; then started the Jeep up and let it reach operating temperature, and then retighten the bolts.

Itís not as big as the factory one, but for a $13 tip (95dkk) and a tube of exhaust paste, I think it looks good. The bolts and rivnuts I already had.


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02-22-2020 04:47 AM
ax1598ZJ Not today but couple weeks ago I finally switched over to synthetic engine oil, should’ve done a long time ago. And broke my oil cap on the valve cover for the second time now.

Thinking about ordering the iron man t case shift linkage when tax money is in.

Haven’t been on in a while but not much has changed other than my front bumper last year
02-21-2020 11:10 AM
AlamoJeeper
Quote:
Originally Posted by IMMORTEN View Post
The only thing I can find is "NUT, Hex Flange Lock, .375-16"...
I'm with you on the mixture of what we Yanks call SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) fasteners and metric fasteners. I have had cars with a mixture for forty years, starting with a 1979 Buick station wagon. Different manufacturers have transitioned different models at different rates from SAE to metric fasteners. Two sets of tools. Oh well.

For the nuts for the tank strap bolts, the main thing is that the bolt threads are 3/8 inch in diameter and 16 threads per inch. My 1995 ZJ has a nut, a lock washer, and a plate washer against the strap. Someone figured out that using a flanged lock nut on the later Jeeps would give the production line worker one thing to put on the bolt instead of three. And one thing to stock on the production line and in the parts departments instead of three. But any combination of nut, some locking functionality, and spreading the nut's force over an area of the strap will work.

As Wingless said, here in the US we can go into a vender and get both metric and SAE. Sorry you can't there.
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