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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-19-2019 10:16 AM
davidjc I'm now still trying to figure out the ESP/BAS,ABS and Traction issue. Jeeps did great on our 2 week yellowstone/rockies trip and again last week in Indiana for the week. Still got the brake pedal grinding effect when dash lights are off but that goes away when dash lights come on. Weird.
07-22-2019 10:23 AM
davidjc Glad you found it now. I knew about the pressure on the caps from watching videos but never thought to check mine. Old or new. Think I'll go do that now. Duh!
07-21-2019 08:39 AM
Brad426 All the cooling system got me to thinking. I checked my 04 Libby's AKA radiator cap on the cooling tank because I don't know the caps history and I've had my Libby about 8 years now. I found some small cracks on the rubber seal. Not surprising so I'll pick up a new one in the morning. I did find something interesting while shopping online for a replacement cap. The pounds of of pressure stamped on the old cap. My cap says 16 lbs. and most of the replacements say 18 lbs. I know pressure has an effect on the boiling point of a fluid. But, do you think 2 lbs. psi is going to make a big difference? My libby has 264K km on it and I have no idea of the hose history. Either way I'll stick to the 16 lbs. Bee Safe.

BTW...Davidjc. Happy to hear the storm wasn't that bad.
07-18-2019 01:47 PM
Brad426 The latest from Scotty on cooling systems. Good general information:

07-16-2019 12:37 PM
davidjc Well, Barry wasn't nearly as bad as predicted. Prayer works.
Ok, on the the Liberty, . . . I went to o'rielly's today for a thermostat. Salesman had experience with Jeep SUVs and and talked me into trying a new radiator cap first. Said they were notorious for bad gaskets after aging. Could not pressurize.
I got home and looked closer at mine and what do you know, there was a 1" piece broken off the smaller gasket. Put the new cap on and hit the road. AC wide open, 15 mile run down country roads, Interstate (75mph) and stop and go city streets. Temp gauge hung right where it should, and when I got home, I checked bottom hose and it was hot now. Was cool before when top was hot. So, i'm calling it done now and returning the thermostat. Hopefully the jeep over heating is cured.
Now on to dash lights codes . . . abs, esp/bas and traction control.
Thanks for all the pointers.
07-12-2019 03:05 PM
Originally Posted by davidjc View Post
Thanks for the ideas Brad. And the videos. A friend told me today about testing the thermostat. So I'll do that as soon and the hurricane wannabe moves out of Louisiana next week.
No problem. I hope & pray the storm passes everyone by. Bee Safe..........and stay dry.
07-12-2019 02:11 PM
davidjc Thanks for the ideas Brad. And the videos. A friend told me today about testing the thermostat. So I'll do that as soon and the hurricane wannabe moves out of Louisiana next week.
07-12-2019 11:32 AM
Brad426 Bummer. It does not sound like you have a coolant loss issue. I've had failed cylinder head gaskets cause engines to over heat. Two things will be noticed if this is the case. Your cooling system will be exposed to high pressures and the hoses will bulge and you might notice white exhaust. You said the fluid level remains good so the engine is not sucking coolant in. That's good.

Maybe the rad is plugged up. I'm not sure if you can see inside the cooling tubes on that model. You might put you hand on the rad to feel if it is warm after the engine gauge shows operating temperature.

Water pumps will always move the coolant. I've never seen a water pump impeller slip or come off or a bushing fail. They usually leak first as a a warning. So I would rule out the water pump as the cause of the over heating at this point. First. Bench test the thermostat to see if that is the root cause of your problem. Drop it in a pot of boiling water and see if it opens and take it out to see if it closes. If it passes I would seriously look at a rad. your going to all the trouble to change the water pump, automatically change the thermostat. I would start there before pulling the rad. I assume the cooling fan is working OK? Keep us posted.

Helpful info:

07-12-2019 09:26 AM
davidjc So I went out this morning and checked cold coolant level. It was on the mark. I started engine and turned on heater on high. Let it run until the top radiator hose was warn/hot. Bottom hose never got warm. Saw dripping from weep tube on passenger side firewall. I had ac compressor on also. No other drips. I tried burping the system per several videos online.
07-11-2019 07:54 PM
davidjc Well, I wish I had good news. If there is any it's that the new hoses do not leak. However, I took the liberty on a 140 mile round trip today up the interstate to test its cooling capabilities. It OVER HEATED AGAIN!
So I stopped under an overpass and raised the hood. No dripping, plenty of coolant in the tank. So I looked for signs of moisture anywhere and saw a tiny amount on top of the radiator, plastic part where the upper hose connects. A hairline fracture evidently, as I could wipe it away and it immediately came back. But the coolant level was good. SO.... Now I'm hoping that a complete radiator, pump, thermostat and hose replacement will cure whatever the root cause is.
Anyone here got any suggestions?

Some other history. . . The ESP/BAS,ABS and Traction lights come on sometimes whenever I hit a bump. Sometimes they'll reset at some point later, other times they're on til I kill the engine. And I can sometimes feel a little drag/surge feel in the engine at highway speeds. Only momentarily. And when the dash lights are OFF, I often feel the brake pedal (ABS) pushing back a little when I apply the brakes. I'll get codes checked on this but wanted to pass it along in case it may have something to do with the overheating. I had the RR speed sensor replaced a few months ago when codes indicated that was the issue, but the lights still come on.
FIRST Priority is overheating.

Thanks again.
07-09-2019 05:02 PM
davidjc Update. Installed new hose set today. Took me about 2 hours and my first one. Removed plastic overflow tank at firewall. Removed breather housing. That gave plenty of room. Used channel locks to remove pinch clamps. A little tight but doable. Getting new clamps in was a little harder. Screw/worm clamps will be easier.
Lost lots of coolant when disconnecting hoses. Caught most if it in tubs.
Now just waiting to top off coolant after I can tell how much more it needs. Test drive tomorrow. Watching for leaks tonight.
07-08-2019 07:11 PM
davidjc With new clamps
07-08-2019 07:09 PM
davidjc Hose set came in today. Hope to start tomorrow.
07-04-2019 02:55 PM
davidjc Thank guys. I'll take your pointers when I start. Ordered complete set so should be in next week. Also, mine must not be original as they have spring clamps at both ends. That should make it easier. New set comes with new spring clamps. Thanks again.
I'll be back 🤔
PS, I'm on smart phone so mistakes are expected.
07-03-2019 11:05 AM
Brad426 Keep in mind that overheating the engine (a modern engine like the 3.7) might haunt you down the road. Generally speaking it can lead to head gasket failure in the future. I'd replace all the heater hose if you don't know their history as cheap insurance. You have to drain the engine anyway. Good old worm clamps work great to replace any crimps. At the heater core end. Cut the hose off the heater core spicket (#11). Trying to wiggle or pry the rubber off can crack the copper heater core spicket. Then it get's ugly.

Check these out:

BTW, Nice looking rig and Libby.
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