|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-20-2020 04:16 PM|
|MetalMountainGoat||I wouldn't have had the patience or skills to redo those fenders like that. Good on you for doing it.|
|01-20-2020 03:42 PM|
Will wait with my popcorn for your next update.
|01-17-2020 07:32 AM|
Originally Posted by pman View Post
Thank you so much for the comments and tuning in to my thread. I really appreciate it! I've had this project going on two years now just taking my time and here lately, trying to share my work for those rebuilding or just doing small repairs. Those panels may have been just as expensive as a replacement fender, but I can say I repaired it and nothing beats OEM. I will say, if you search the internet hard enough, you can find a lot of odd parts for these old Jeeps. That's how I found the repair panels, endless searching.
I also want to thank everyone who reads and sends comments and suggestions! You guys help keep my motivation going and give me some ideas when I'm stuck.
More updates on the fender will be coming soon!
|01-16-2020 07:58 PM|
I havenít been on the forum much recently but finally found the time (and motivation) to restart the restoration of my 82 Scrambler. I stumbled across your build here and Iím VERY impressed with the work youíve done!! Iíd have ditched the fenders and bought replacements, but I really like your motivation to work with what you have. That fender skin is pretty cool (and didnít know they even existed)!
|01-16-2020 07:02 PM|
***Longish Post be sure to check out links at the very end, I have text between photos in some places***
So here we go, I started tearing apart the in the drivers fender... I have repair panels for it I found on eBay (Ill post an initial review). I kinda cheated on this one because I knew the metal on both panels were not fixable or would require more work to save it. Knowing that I found these panels on eBay just made it easy to just replace.
First step was finding all the spot welds and drilling them out for the inner fender well. Pretty self explanatory so I feel a picture is not going to show much. I had to locate the cover plate spot welds and drill or grind those out too. Having the paint off of the fenders makes it easy to feel for the low spots. After each spot weld is drilled out it gets a little more flimsy, this can help show the hidden spot welds.
My review of the panels I bought:
The panel that has the contours of the upper fender claim to be "New Old Stock". The only difference I see is that it does not have fender flair spots. No big deal there, a drill bit and file can fix that. The cover plate looks good but it does have minor differences. The seller does not claim this as "New Old Stock" but a reproduction. The size is very close, you can see in the pictures my red line from the original. Keep in mind this is just laying on the fender and not clamped in place. One other difference is my original cover plate has a bend at the very top to connect to the fenders upper most lip by the hood. The new one does not have this and I think I like that construction due to water being able to get between that panel.
This plate is also a little thicker than the original too. Again, not a big deal to me because who's gonna notice until you read this post? I'll update this review later after instillation is done.
Passenger lower fender panel
Drivers side Lower fender panel
I guess the person with the cover plates are sold out.. Last I check they had a few.. the seller is named "cjsrus" and can be found here
They could be making more. I've had good experiences with them in the past
|01-13-2020 09:16 AM|
Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
|01-13-2020 08:47 AM|
No need for a TIG - unless youíve been looking for a reason to get one. Set your MIG on the lowest setting, use thinner wire such as .023 if you can, and do a series of tacks. That method works fine on sheet metal.
|01-13-2020 08:06 AM|
Originally Posted by Axhammer View Post
|01-12-2020 05:19 PM|
Thatís a good question. My hardtop looks just like yours, a plastic hardtop vice the later fiberglass version. I rolled Rustoleum paint onto my Keyparts liftgate to get the texture.
You have a good thread going here, itís nice to here the word ďreducerĒ used when appropriate. As far as the spot welded fenders...Iíll be watching to see what you do, Iím behind you in my rebuild, so you just go ahead and break the ice and I will follow?
|01-12-2020 03:47 PM|
Fender repair help
A little set back on the grill this past week. Just didn't get to spray it with primer yet hopefully monday.
Im going to start on fender repairs and I have a question... Well more a less I need YOUR opinions.
Should I dig into the passenger fender or no? I'm talking about the cover plate that covers up the lower section of the fender where it joints to the tub. There is some rot on the cover with a few pin holes making that area very thin. I ultimately know if I tear it apart, I won't have any issues with it 30 years or better down the road. (yes, I plan on keeping the Jeep that long) But on the other hand, If I don't address it, is the risk of rust showing in another spot more likely?
The drivers side fender is getting replaced due to it having a hole the size of a golf ball in it from rust, right in the middle of the panel. I just want your opinions before I start drilling out spot welds on the passenger fender. Thanks in advance
|01-10-2020 06:55 AM|
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
Eh, It wasn't too difficult in my opinion, just slow going so I wouldn't break it. The chrome ring has a lip on it that "crimps" it to the housing. I used a flat head screwdriver to slowly and carefully bend the chrome ring off the housing. Then I was able to somehow take a smaller flat head screwdriver and side between the ring and housing. Be careful doing this part because the screw driver will be hitting the glass. From here the housing was flexible enough to slip out of the ring.
Only the chrome ring, glass, and a rubber gasket will come out so don't worry about the face or needle coming off. Be sure to clean the gasket off if your paint has flaked off. I had black paint on my gasket and I noticed it started to flake off as I was installing it, making me take it apart to clean it. Take a good measurement of the thickness of the black paint on the glass, I estimated it being about 1/4" but I did not have a good ring to measure. I also used enamel paint in the tiny jars for model cars.
Putting back together:
This was more of a pain. I had to open up the chrome ring some more using a needle nose pliers so I could slip it over the tach housing. It wasn't just a set in fit, I had to use a small screwdriver to assist it sliding on. I have not found a safe way to "re-crimp" the chrome ring for a more water resistant seal. If anyone has any experience sealing tachometers let me know! I would like the ring to be a little more snug. It won't come off, but I can spin it and before I took it apart it didn't spin.
I hope this helps anyone who may try this in the future!
|01-10-2020 06:51 AM|
By the way nice work on the tachometer.
|01-10-2020 06:28 AM|
|keith460||Nice job on the OEM Tachometer. Was it hard to take apart? I need to repaint the black ring around mine as well, as it seems they all do that over time.|
|01-10-2020 05:57 AM|
|01-09-2020 07:30 PM|
|Deer-Slayer_5||Yikes, sorry for the pictures being rotated... I haven't had that issue a picture do that before|
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