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What did you do to your ZJ today?

4M views 55K replies 2K participants last post by  98ZJ 
#1 ·
This thread is to serve as an inspiration to others modifying their ZJ's. Pretty simple, just post what you did to your ZJ today!


Today I shamefully took my Jeep to get the oil changed because it was to hot to change it myself.
 
#50,647 ·
#50,649 ·
Got the front pads swapped around. They're sitting much better now, but still a little gap on the top now, instead of the bottom. But I did notice that pushing the rotor to the hub and banging on the caliper a bit did seem to cinch things up, so I'm assuming with the wheels on, they should be sitting against the knuckle.


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#50,650 ·
Got the front pads swapped around. They're sitting much better now, but still a little gap on the top now, instead of the bottom. But I did notice that pushing the rotor to the hub and banging on the caliper a bit did seem to cinch things up, so I'm assuming with the wheels on, they should be sitting against the knuckle.


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I would take the pads out of the caliper and see if they fit correctly on the knuckle without the caliper. I WOULD NOT drive it like it is now.

I just put pads on two of my '98 ZJs last week and the pads fit nice and snug to the knuckle, no gaps.

GW
 
#50,651 ·
Behold, the redneck under-Jeep Hack-n-tap drill press.



The drill isn't lined up straight in the photo as I had to hold the camera, but with two hands you can line things up right and squeeze the trigger with one hand and pull on the 2x4 with the other - it's jammed against the parking brake bracket and works like a big lever. A bit awkward but man did it make drilling a hundred times easier. The IRO drill jig helps a lot too, I didn't even need to bother with a pilot hole.
 
#50,652 ·
I would take the pads out of the caliper and see if they fit correctly on the knuckle without the caliper. I WOULD NOT drive it like it is now.

I just put pads on two of my '98 ZJs last week and the pads fit nice and snug to the knuckle, no gaps.

GW
Good to know.

I may just pick up some new pads and throw them in. I have no idea how old these ones are in the first place, since they've been on there since the PO and I've owned this Jeep for almost two years now.

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#50,655 ·
Steering wheel vibrating (not shaking I think) between 25-30mph (on road and off road ). No shaking at all doing slower of faster. Does not matter how smooth the road is.

Is it like DW or wheel balance issue?
I'd take a look at your front drive shaft u-joints for play.
 
#50,659 ·
Well, I drive a 1997 Limited with 5.2L.. the 5.2 and 5.9 packages are the same..

For me I removed the stock cables, including the loom going to the alternator and the plug/junction to the fuse block. I opened the loom and divided the wires. I kept the fuseable link separate and the main positive and negative cables separate.

For the 2 wires going to the starter they are connected at the starter inside a rubber block. I had to cut the little wire and crimp on a #10 ring on the end. It would help to drip some solder in that connection.

Then, the battery negative cable (long one) goes to the alternator and they make a stupid "Y" with one branch to the engine block ground point.
I cut the part going to the battery just under the "Y" then sealed it with a butt cap. I then re-loomed the few wires and the butt cap and wrapped the entire loom with 3M Super88 electrical tape.
On the part with the "Y" i kept the part going to the alternator, as you can't technically disconnect it from the little box on the alt, and the branch over to the engine ground went back to the grounding point. I fastened the negative cable from the battery to the same engine block ground point.

The main positive cable goes directly from battery to starter. I put that cable and the small wire from the loom through the metal loop/fastener that originally held them in place (against the engine block, underneath) and then to their place on the starter.

The kit came with 2 smaller cables as well. One smaller ground, which yes, it is very long seeing as how the ground point is only a few inches from the batt terminal on the inner fender.
One smaller positive which I put from the battery to the fuse block.

The only thing I need/want is a cable to replace the fuseable link with a fuse in it. But I only have the factory upgraded alternator (130amp) that came with the vehicle, at least I think so... So I don't need to put that fuse in until I upgrade to a 170amp alternator.

These "military style" terminal clamps are nice! They make adding accessories super simple!

My kit did NOT include the #10stud crimp ring. It was supposed to and the owner, Vince, offered to overnight it, but I said nevermind and walked to the hardware store and bought a pack of them, LOL.

It sounds more difficult than it was. It can probably take less than 3-4 hours. I'm a bit slow and a tad OCD so I go over everything 3 times and went very slowly making the new loom, so it took me about 4.5hrs of work alone in my driveway..
I am more than willing to help out if you need it and if you were in Ohio I'd definitely link up and help out. But it's pretty easy, just a lot of bending in tight areas. It probably would've been easier if I'd have lifted my ZJ on jack stands, I just left it at ride height...
Thanks so much for your detailed reply and offer to help. I'm in NYC area so too far. (Please excuse my delayed response as well)
Great info though. My cables are in pretty good shape but would like to upgrade at some point. Hearing how you did it helps.

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#50,660 ·
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