|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-20-2019 01:26 PM|
I've seen 1100 feet in the surrounding suburbs.
|05-20-2019 01:16 PM|
I don't think this is the total fix for his issues. I just think a little bit of everything adds up to solving the exhaust smell.
Like exhaust tips a few inches (7"-8") past and pointed down from the tire, charcoal canister hooked up, closer jetting than Greg has right now. All of that adds up to less exhaust smell.
Cleveland is less than 1,000 ft altitude (653')
|05-20-2019 01:05 PM|
Good call, Mr. Now
I didn't expect his timing to be that big of a factor since it isn't a finicky Weber.
|05-20-2019 12:23 PM|
The HEI shuts itself off when the engine stops. The DuraSpark keeps on putting out power, overheating the coil or burning out semiconductors in the ICM.
|05-20-2019 11:58 AM|
Glad to hear your advance slot change over to the 18R slot was so successful.
I have a friend in Utah at 8500' who I talked into flipping his advance head to the 18R slot. He was so excited with the results, he went to many of his CJ-YJ friends and flipped their advance head as well. Then, he thought because of his altitude, he pulled his distributor apart again and filed one side to advance even more than the 20 degrees total advance from "HIS" 18R slot. He runs 22 degrees at 8500 feet and is very happy. He didn't think this would change things very much and is pleasantly surprised.
I want to add here that "I" have never seen a 6.25 to 6.75 slot in a Motorcraft distributor. The only ones I have seen in Jeeps are the 13R / 18R advance slots. And the 13R slot is where the advance arm operates it's 13-14 degrees mechanical/centrifugal advance. This changing slots is a huge difference in timing for economy and all around performance gains.
And, that all being said, running manifold vacuum advance will increase the idle speed which will allow you to close the throttle plates with your idle speed screw.
A major improvement in centrifugal advance and actual spark energy increased over the Duraspark ignition is the HEI distributor. Just sayin
|05-20-2019 08:08 AM|
Thank you all for your feedback and help.
|05-18-2019 08:18 AM|
What are the mixture screw limits compared to where yours currently are?
The reason I ask is that on a Weber, if you're lean on the idle jets and drawing from the progression circuit at idle, it'll stink up both yours and your neighbor's house with that noxious, eye-burning smell.
Does a Motorcraft have transition slots that can be diagnosed like a Holley by flipping the carb over to see how much of the slot is exposed below the throttle plates?
|05-17-2019 07:59 PM|
sealed the tailgate
I had the same issue, with the the top all secured down and the windows zippered shut for winter. Installed some window seal foam strips in between the tailgate and tub. Took 90% of it away. With the windows and doors off I still get some exhaust inside. Kind of a band aid to a more deeper issue. It was interesting to note the above entries on the spark, carb and advanced corrections that will help burn the gas more completely.
|05-17-2019 06:51 PM|
|ECJ-7||my 76 had exhaust smell pretty bad , I ended up adding a good 8" to the length to get rid of it. Right now it is down at a 45 and about 7" past the rear of the body. ANd no more smell.|
|05-17-2019 09:07 AM|
Originally Posted by gkoz19 View Post
|05-16-2019 03:28 PM|
I was looking at my notes, when I worked on a few of these 2100/2150's.
1.08 venture #47 jet (1.08" x 25.4 = 27.43mm venture)
1.21 venture #46 jet (1.21" x 25.4 = 30.73mm venture)
6.5 power valve @ 3000 ft and up
7.5 power valve up to 3000 ft
the power valve choice was estimated at 80% of the driving at these altitudes, seemed to work well. This is my guide for jetting the Motorcraft, more High Performance modifications take more fuel...
The simplest/best upgrade for your timing/ignition issue is the H.E.I. distributor. ($100.00 to $300.00) You would get a normal advance curve, rather than an emissions total advance curve of 6.5 degrees like Bagus Jeep stated, better starting, better acceleration, more power, etc..
The cheapest way to get a more normal centrifugal advance is to change/turn your advance head in your Motorcraft distributor. I stole these pictures from Matt, and have used them many many times explaining when you take the computer out of adjusting the timing (Nutter by-pass) you are left with very little total timing. We "flip" the advance head to the 18R slot. This gives about 18 degrees of advanced timing position. You still have the Duraspark ignition, but with the "Team Rush" upgrade and flipping the advance head you will have reasonable timing throughout your RPM range. Take a look in the "PEEP" hole to see what advance slot you have.
Check these pictures out...
|05-16-2019 02:25 PM|
|trailhead2004||Open the garage door!|
|05-16-2019 12:37 PM|
You might need a new air filter.
If you can find a different housing to hold a larger air filter, that might be a good idea.
You don't have power brakes so it might be rather simple.
Definitely look into upgrading the distributor to a TEAM RUSH configuration. This will give you a better spark making for a more complete burn.
To make it real simple, look into a GM HEI conversion. I think they run anywhere for $100 to $300 but having a good ignition system make tuning so much easier.
If you don't have a good spark, it's hard to make carb adjustments work.
|05-16-2019 11:31 AM|
Originally Posted by BagusJeep View Post
Haven't messed with the distributor, but will make these changes.
Not sure on the fuel pump.
I did not adjust the float, but will research that too.
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll report back soon hopefully.
|05-16-2019 11:25 AM|
Originally Posted by Eazyrider805 View Post
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