|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-17-2019 12:23 PM|
Well she's all back together .. hard to tell, possibly *maybe* a small bit quieter, but still clearly there. I didn't notice it on the dirt last Saturday, but now that I'm looking for it, it's definitely there at anything over 10 MPH any terrain.
On the other hand, last week I said turn her around NOW, something's wrong - 50 miles today and I didn't have the same impression, but the mind plays tricks. May be just because I've been through it and don't feel as if it's about to puke a joint or something.
If it didn't have tame street radials I'd say it was tire noise - or kind of like what you'd expect on an older truck with no sound deadening. A panel van. A drone which doesn't change in pitch with speed (although intensity increases with speed), doesn't change under power, coast, or brake, straight or in a turn. No actual vibration. I tried reverse but it's difficult to find a place where it's safe to reverse for any distance - though I think it's still there.
Hubs, half shafts and universals feel good. The clicking from the transfer case was, I suspect, just being driven on blocks with no wheels and no load. No drive line codes, no lights (well engine, but that's lambda and cat related). Goes in and out of 4WL normally. Case and diffs weeping at the gaskets as expected for age, but the seals are holding.
I've gone through it as thoroughly as I can, and at least reckon it's not going to toss a wheel and kill her (though the lower rad hose is a bit squishy) - so I'm thinking just drive it, wait and see.
There's a big dampening mass on the front diff, oil soaked over the years. It's not wiggly, but i wonder if it's bushing has given up the ghost? though I wouldn't expect to hear that at 20.
|05-16-2019 05:44 PM|
I'd drive it for a little bit to see if the front end loosens up, when I changed the fluid in mine I had to drive it for a few days for it to fully loosen back up for whatever reason. Worst case the solenoid may be jammed. For testing purposes I imagine you could just remove it.
Ah the joys of private insurance. Everyone out here complains about our public insurance sometimes costing more, but it's hugely beneficial that they have to insure everyone at equal rates and people who have interesting vehicles don't get screwed.
|05-16-2019 04:11 PM|
Got it! Has to be.
Filled with OE goo (Who though it was funny to place fill holes on the dark side of Uranus? 2 ounce hoss syringe and a bit of 1/4" tubing got the job done - 2 ounces at a time). Just putting the brakes back on - In park key off - the rear axles turn freely, the front doesn't. The diff is locked. Something broke, something stuck.
|05-16-2019 08:35 AM|
I had a vehicle a couple years ago that insurance wanted to salvage when I went for a minor claim.
They made a lame offer and I went online and found a dozen of the most expensive ads and they tripled their offer..
Counter any insurance offer with the most expensive comparable vehicles you can find.
|05-16-2019 06:32 AM|
Hopefully the dealer doesn't hoop you for the modifier and NV245 . Like mentioned, get the gear oil at crappy Tire or somewhere.
|05-16-2019 05:35 AM|
You're right .. Recently had to service my Clown Victoria's 8-1/2" open diff - just filled it with dinosaur shelf schmoo because i know it's good enough for the ancient axle design, not the same familiarity with this jeep, so for proper diagnostics I'll pony for all OEM fluids - though it's a 4 hour round trip to the nearest dealer. Ugh.
Drained the transfer case - had exactly 48 ounces of decidedly low viscosity near black fluid, doesn't smell burnt, but I'll bet it'll leave some crap if I were to put it through a coffee filter - so will refill this with the right stuff too.
It's not that I'm cheap by nature .. just hadn't decided whether or not this is a basket case. Wife says she likes it, so in for a penny.
I'm in Canada BTW, Northern Ontario. Gov't has all but killed car culture, no aftermarket to speak of, and the wreckers cube and cart quickly, so parts availability kind of sucks. The mantra here is "lease it for 3 years, do over". I've even had to pull my old 'rod off the road after 27 years because the insurers won't touch it for under $6K year.
Ah yes, don't get me started on them. Wife's wagon is a write off for the sake of two commonly available doors that I could replace in 2 hours. Car was so popular in that coulor that i could probably find the correct ones without paint. Nope says them - it's a write off, sucks to be you, and no you can't buy the salvage title.
Thanks so far for all the help, will update later.
|05-15-2019 02:27 PM|
As stated above, it could be just the 80w90 in the diffs causing the issue. I'm sure the ELSD clutches won't like it too much, but even just the friction modifier might help if your in a pinch. I just paid $10/bottle the other week.. Can't see it being more in the US .
Good luck, Let us know how it goes .
|05-15-2019 12:28 PM|
Originally Posted by Raffish View Post
I had Lucas synthetic that said the same and it cleared up the front diff noise that my WK came with, chasing another problem I changed it again but put in the modifier as well and it *seems* to work the same. Granted everything may have appeared fine without the modifier purely because of any damage done by the previous owner.
|05-15-2019 11:53 AM|
Originally Posted by underscore View Post
Mobil-1 75W-140 is a good affordable brand for the gear oil and goes ~$20 per quart; you need 2 qts. per axle. Think the MOPAR Friction Modifier runs ~$10 per bottle at the dealer.
|05-15-2019 11:43 AM|
Originally Posted by underscore View Post
BTW Mopar RTV is sets in an hour after install and is as cheap as any kind..
|05-15-2019 11:25 AM|
If it has QDII and the front diff fluid isn't correct and clean or the solenoid has jammed then the front end will make some funny noises when turning, when you're going straight it should still be fine.
For the fluid only the modifier needs to come from the dealer, you can get the rest of the fluid elsewhere. If you're trying to save a few bucks fluid that comes with its own limited slip additive is likely good enough.
|05-15-2019 11:11 AM|
Originally Posted by yzjwk View Post
Yes Quadra II, on the console.
Okay, full time - that's one question mark negated.
"The vehicle will not move if you try to drive it without the front driveshaft ... Get the fluid filled and back together and drive it again"
Whoops. Wish I could post a picture of how far torn down she is. Lol. You'd be surprised how far an old booger can go in a day with armstrong kit. Ah well, better to find out now. I'll start stitching her together. That'll be the rest of this day. Yay, and it`s been raining all week.
I had previously looked it up, but to be honest, I loathed to go full dealer branded fluid - in total that's about half what this thing cost me. The front is full of generic 80/90 which in my experience was better than 0/0.
At 400+K, known to have been run out of oil at least twice (I put 5 quarts into it when I bought it!), and occasionally dropping a gear (which I have yet to deal with) I`ve never seen this vehicle as worth preserving long term. Although admittedly, the chassis is in far better condition than I expected. (if it were an XJ in the same condition, I`d toss money at it rather than eat for a month!). I just need it not to kill my wife for the next 30 days, and as much as God and I may love her - she`s just as bad as the previous owner for ignoring warning lights and indications that Motorhead may be squatting somewhere in the driveline and rocking out at eleven point six.
She says that`s why she keeps me around.
Anyway, will put her back together, take her out, and retrieve any new (there are already a few non critical, evap and catalyst IIRC) codes if my reader will see them, and get back to you.
Much thanks again so far
|05-15-2019 11:01 AM|
|Raffish||Check the CV joint on the front prop shaft, common failure and sounds horrible when bad..|
|05-15-2019 09:32 AM|
The vehicle will not move if you try to drive it without the front driveshaft and you could damage it if you try. The differentials require 70W140 and additional friction modifiers for the LSD clutches. Trans Case requires NV245 Mopar fluid .
Get the fluid filled and back together and drive it again and let us know what's up from there. Look for rocks and mud stuck in the dust shields.
Do you have an engine light up or good scanner to extract codes ?
|05-15-2019 09:14 AM|
If you're stateside and your Grand Cherokee is an '05 with a Hemi, then you've got a WK. I'll move this thread to the WK section, they'll be better able to help you out.
For the record, there are some '05 WJ's out there, but they're export market produced vehicles.
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