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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-28-2019 09:17 PM
roger200x Pulled the trans out and disassemled. Found the accumulator piston had a broken small sealing ring - also missing the smaller inside spring (must have thought it was a spring i had replaced in the valve body and thats on me).

The front clutch pack welded itslef together... all fibers and steels are one solid piece -Welded the fibers to the metals.

The rear band is burned bad and has almost zero friction material left.

Thats all I found... everthing else is in good shape
04-20-2019 02:46 PM
roger200x Well, so much for an easy rebuild. Got it all together today with new tranny lines, speed sensor and new crank sensor.... It has reverse and 2nd gear but thats about it. It seemed to have first when I first started it but when I manually select 1st it slips and doesnt pull. there is no 2-3 shift when in drive. It just seems to have 2nd and reverse... any ideas?
04-14-2019 07:32 PM
roger200x
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingless View Post
There was a short lived TSB to add a check valve.

The vehicle was built w/o a check valve. It should not have one installed.

When I rebuilt my transmission I used garden hose water and Simple Green to clean my hoses and coolers. Followed by compressed air to dry.

Back and forth with that cleaning ensured no check valve present.
EVERYTHING I have read states the one line had a check ball in it including the factory service manual and mine has it. The new lines I just ordered from Advance Auto also have the check valve in it - its in where the rubber meets the metal and it screws together. There were 2 different lines available with different bends and the front line on the trans had a female threaded nut on it instead of the quick disconnect - I have no idea about that line as mine has 2 quick disconnects.

I also found out that the one line is broke off in the connector so I had to order new lines - lol.... so I still dont know if this trans works or not. Also noticed that the intake is leaking coolant out the back of the motor - that explains my idle problems - intake manifold gaskets....

Ill keep this updated... hopefully next weekend I will have the new CPS, transmission cooler lines and manifold gaskets.
04-08-2019 08:06 AM
wingless There was a short lived TSB to add a check valve.

The vehicle was built w/o a check valve. It should not have one installed.

When I rebuilt my transmission I used garden hose water and Simple Green to clean my hoses and coolers. Followed by compressed air to dry.

Back and forth with that cleaning ensured no check valve present.
04-08-2019 06:27 AM
roger200x
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingless View Post
When I replaced my OEM cooler lines, there was only one way they would fit. That is how they were installed.

Lol agreed, there is only 1 way they fit, but I was wanting to make sure they are the correct lines and the check valve is in the right place. The previous owner butchered them badly and for all I know they could be from a truck or a diesel truck and not for the jeep... I know that check ball can cause serious problems if its stuck or for that matter going the wrong way.

Everything I have read says the check valve is in the return but its clearly in the pressure line in my setup....

When I look for the lines online rhey all seem to say inlet to transmission or bottom radiator line but none of it corresponds.

I do have a little seep in atleast one of the lines so I may just order all new lines if I can I up a little money - tight right now after all the tranny rebuild parts and now a cps also.
04-08-2019 06:16 AM
wingless When I replaced my OEM cooler lines, there was only one way they would fit. That is how they were installed.
04-07-2019 06:46 PM
roger200x
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingless View Post
Here is my 46RH rebuild topic showing the CPS placement.






The torque converter cannot be drained / flushed, so all the prior crud will remain. A replacement torque converter is the only way to start fresh.

Another good idea is to loosen the transmission valve body, after dropping the pan. That action will remove lots and lots of old fluid.

Use thread locker on the torque converter bolts and on the flex plate bolts.
I removed the transmission first then was able to grind an allen wrench short enough to get the CPS out - I planned on buying a new one anyways - I have a weird idle problem and have no qualms just throwing in a new CPS since its out already - it was covered in oil from my rear main leaking (fixed but all that crud was in there still). I disassembled the entire valve body - every last bit of it and cleaned it all and replaced a bunch of stuff with the SONNAX zip kit. I also ordered a new torque converter and installed that.

Wingless - please see if you can makes sense of the post before this one and give me some cooler line advice.
04-07-2019 06:42 PM
roger200x I got the transmission all rebuilt and mounted in the Jeep but the ran out of daylight... Gotta install the transfer case, both driveshafts and replace the speed sensor in the xfer case (and possibly wiring if it hasnt been updated yet).

I am very, very confused on the transmission cooler lines and need some help! The ATSG service manual shows the pressure port in the FRONT of the transmission (left side) and the RETURN in the REAR of the transmission. In that pictorial it shows the ports labeled and the radiator bottom port labeled RETURN LINE and shows the check valve in it. This CANNOT be correct. The line plugged into the FRONT port of the transmission has the check valve in it - and that ball can only move one way. I disassembled it and physically checked the ball - it moves TOWARD the radiator - meaning the FRONT port labeled PRESSURE would in fact push that ball forward under pressure and allow oil to flow - but the book and everything online says the check ball is in the RETURN line.... If that line is in fact the return line (and not the pressure no oil will ever come from the radiator to the transmission.

I don't want to burn up a transmission so I am asking for some advice on how this actually works.
03-23-2019 07:54 PM
wingless When I rebuilt mine I used the Alto Red #028757 frictions and steels kit, along with lots of other parts.

My 46RH rebuild topic shows lots of upgrade parts that were also used in my rebuild.

Plan on replacing all the clips and retaining rings for safety / security on the rebuild. Those parts are extra.
03-23-2019 06:05 PM
roger200x So I pulled the pan off my "new to me" transmission and wasnt happy immediately. The fluid that remained was disgusting, smelled bad and has some water. I pulled the valve body off completely and was just sick. The Accumulator spring was broke (typical), a couple of the pistons are scored. I pulled the trans pump out and inspected it - not perfect but not too bad really. I decided to gut the whole thing - thats the only way to get it all out... Ripped it down to the last bolt today and the only remaining part is the OD clutch pack that needs a press to take apart. All of the friction plates seemed to be totally fine - no burning, no pieces missing, no discoloration and not thin. The steels have blue dots in them that I cant explain... obviously heat but I dont know how it would be just spots - like 4-6 spots on some steels and 2-3 on others about the size of a BIC pen around.

Everything else seems ok - no metal wear, no friction washer wear, planetaries all look good. I was surprised with the inside status after seeing the fluid and the little metal hue in the oil.

Im thinking about ordering the SONNAX zip kit for it which will fix my valve body problems along with the accumulator piston kit they offer.

Also thinking about this $97 rebuild kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ZGIPDG3A&psc=1 or I could get the same seal kit with no steels and no fibers for $43.

Bands also seem OK...

Im sure Im forgetting something but there was no carnage really except the broken acc. spring.

ANy other thoughts? I should have taken pics of the plates to ask if I needed to replace... I hate wasting money as its TIGHT right now but I dont want to do it again...
03-21-2019 08:54 AM
wingless Here is my 46RH rebuild topic showing the CPS placement.






The torque converter cannot be drained / flushed, so all the prior crud will remain. A replacement torque converter is the only way to start fresh.

Another good idea is to loosen the transmission valve body, after dropping the pan. That action will remove lots and lots of old fluid.

Use thread locker on the torque converter bolts and on the flex plate bolts.
03-21-2019 08:25 AM
roger200x Glad you reminded me on the band adjustment! I intended to but it could easily be forgotten.


Never thought anout the cooler but that is an excellent idea!

Why would I need a “new” torque converter? The trans came with one that I bought.

Safety? We dont need safety where were going... lol Ill be doing it in my gravel driveway with plywood, a floor jack and blocks of wood ... unfortunately. Sad face.

Does the 95 5.2/46rh have the cps on the bell housing? I didnt think it did but I have not looked. I read it didnt but I have no idea at the moment.

My life is crazy, my dad went to the hospital with heart problems monday- wed and im just lost and all over thr place still. Hes doing ok but the stress has weecked me.

Thanks guys!
03-21-2019 06:27 AM
wingless Clean out the cooler line. I used compressed air back and forth through the coolers. Simple Green and water also worked well, followed by air.

A new torque converter is required.

Use ATF+4 fluid.

Safety first. Use chains on the transmission lift.

Don't forget to remove first / replace last the CPS sensor.
03-21-2019 06:03 AM
Zilliver Do the band adjustment when you have the pan off.
03-20-2019 09:29 PM
roger200x Quick update: I bought another 46rh trans thats supposed to be “low miles” but ill take that with a grain of salt. Paid $100 so i wont be out anything.


Im gonna pull the pan and inspect the valvebody before installing it.

Any pointers on inspecting anything else before I put it in?
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