|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-21-2019 08:48 AM|
Originally Posted by bruinjeeper View Post
Keep a lookin'
|04-21-2019 06:39 AM|
Good for you, Gold. You used your head, instead of your heart, and that's a good thing when it comes to buying a vehicle, even if you have been jonesing for one since you got your license.
|04-20-2019 09:25 PM|
Don't expect anybody to be able to evaluate the condition of a vehicle from a few exterior pictures on the internet.
I have to evaluate used cars as part or my living. Factory certified, dealer certified, with or without warranty. Due to the current laws in my state we have many used car dealers that have commercials on tv all time send cars over for open recalls before they can legally sell them. A lot of their cars in general are GARBAGE.
There are a lot of crooked people in the world. You don't sound like you know what you are looking for when you evaluate a vehicle. I dont know how to tell you how to find an honest and knowledgeable person that can. You can and should pay somebody for an inspection based on what your knowledge seems to be. But. an idiot can be the inspector.
Not trying to discourage you. A lot of mechanical and structural things need to be evaluated.
Bedliner is becoming a trend inside and out. Not knocking something for having it. My Scattered Jeep will probably have it inside and out.... but with pictures and progress of what it covered. I agree that it can cover evil stuff but it can be the cool and durable trend over good metal.
There are a lot of tests to a vehicle. Cold start, hot, driving in many conditions,,,, do all systems work? Any noise. Engage 4wd. Visual... Butt connectors? Fluid leaks. Inspect body and frame. Signs of water damage. Scan for codes. Inspect for collision damage. maintenance records. Condition of fluids. Signs of sludge and oil contamination..... Can be very tricky.
Nobody on this forum can help you to be 100% sure. It is easy to jump into a nightmare if you do not have DIY skills and mechanical aptitude.
If you are mechanically inclined and have a knack for research and some resources.... Then you may be able to find a bargain or quality Heep.
Dont want to scare you off... but there are a lot of hunks of poop out there that are beyond most peoples means of fixing.
|04-20-2019 05:23 PM|
|bruinjeeper||plus it had a 3" body lift on it anyways|
|04-20-2019 02:49 PM|
|fishadventure||O, no it ain’t! Squares and leafs. At least good leafs. Once you go down the click-pen spring route it’s very hard to recover one’s um, male status...|
|04-20-2019 11:11 AM|
Thank you guys!
I have bad new (eel not really bad news) but the guy was a jerk. I know many people may have still went through the deal but I didn’t like the Jeep that much and he was pretty rude. He also had no interest in answering any of my questions and had no time to let me test drive it. I feel it goes without saying that I passed on this Jeep.
Did test drive a TJ today and fell in love! A 1997 with green paint and it is amazing. I know this isn’t the proper thread to post about that though lol. Thank you guys!
|04-19-2019 08:26 PM|
|zrickety||Looks like a good start. Get those new gauges inside the cluster and enjoy it!|
|04-19-2019 08:24 PM|
OK.. . . . . Going to be brutally honest with you here, so hold on to something.
1. The bedliner product is a no go for me based upon your location and rust. Bedliner, especially spray bedliner (the home use kind) is an excellent way to hide/cover rust and crappy rust repairs. I'd pass simply because I can't really see how good or bad the metal is underneath. Look for factory paint and unmolested undercarriage - you will see the issues coming.
2. Self tapping screws into the dash pad to mount one external gauge and into the plastic of the dash to mount the other gauge - no. Anyone who takes the shortcut of mounting an aftermarket gauge by screwing it into the dash as a "Fix" for repairing the factory gauge - wiring - sender that came from the factory (Not once but twice) is the kind of guy who takes shortcuts and "good enough" is just that for him - good enough. This is a tell-tale sign that the owner either A. does not know how to fix his jeep properly or B. took a shortcut because he was lazy. Either way, it makes me wonder what the wiring situation is under the hood/dash and how many other "fixes" this guy has mickey-moused together.
If you are up for paying a mechanic you trust to go over the entire vehicle and check for hidden rust and issues before you buy it, then the honest mechanic will probably be able to tell you if the Jeep is crap or not. Short of that, you take a big risk buying a Jeep covered in bedliner.
That's my 2 cents on that Jeep.
Now here is my opinion on what you should be looking for:
1. Only buy a 6 cylinder YJ. Why you ask? Because I don't care how many people tell you the 4 cylinder is fine... it's not. It's grossly underpowered once you get big tires on it and if you plan on going anywhere with hills (I drive the 15 though Salt lake area several times per year) which I know you will, the 4 cylinder and 33" tires (even with 4.10 axles) is a pain in the butt to get up hills. Ask me how I know. Find a 6 cylinder and don't settle on a 4 banger. Our YJ started life as a 4 cylinder and is now a 6 cylinder. It's that much of a difference.
2. Find one as close to factory stock as you can. It's easier to spot problems on a stock jeep. Things that were changed/modified than it is on a modified Jeep. Also, since you are new to the YJ scene, it'll be easier to find parts for the stuff you will need to fix. If you do buy one with a lift and tires and other stuff, make sure that the guy has an accurate list of all the modifications he made. For example, if he swapped in the axles from a different year YJ (as we did) the brake pads may be different. You go to change your brakes, tell skippy the stock-boy at AutoZone you have a 93 YJ, he pulls the pads, you buy them, get home and spend hours trying to figure out why these pads wont fit because you have an 89 YJ axle up front. It's things like this example that will drive you crazy.
3. If you have saved up to buy one, what's a few more weeks or months waiting for the right one. Don't buy the first one you see. If it means saving up some money to buy one in better shape, it will pay huge dividends in the future. Wiat for the right one, do your homework, have enough cash to get a good one up front, or enough time, tools, blood-sweat-and-tears, and cash to spend on making a bad one into a good one.
|04-19-2019 06:16 PM|
Originally Posted by Gold Crusader View Post
I was in your shoes about 16 years ago, buying my Wrangler that I was saving for. I was also recovering from homelessness (long story). . Anyway, see my first post for a pic of my Jeep lifted, since. The 2.5L engine is loosely based of the AMC engine. And the AMC engine is loosely based off the "Iron Duke" engine which is more or less bulletproof as is the 4.0.. Thats my understanding of it. The 4.0 is more common and quite a powerplant.
If you lift it & increase the tire size, you will probably want to regear the differentials. Or look for a 4.0. I didn't regear initially after the lift and I ran out of engine at about 55mph (wouldnt go faster than 55mph)..
Again, congratulations! Welcome to the forum! And the addiction (Jeep addiction).
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
|04-19-2019 02:29 PM|
classic 1990 JEEP WRANGLER
Only 70 k on rebuilt engine
New soft top
New 1/2 door uppers
BEDLINER product inside and out
4x4 all works
|04-19-2019 02:28 PM|
Buying my first Jeep Wranger!
So happy to be here. I finally saved up enough money to get my hands on my very first jeep. Been wanting one since I was little! Now, at 26, I have space for one and the cash I've been saving up. I'm going to look at a few but this one really caught my eye. Been looking on craigslist and ebay for months but this one stood out. What do you think?
I contacted the guy asking about rust. Also, it's a 4cl.
Any tips and advice would be very helpful and appreciated!
Oh damn... I can't post links yet...