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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-16-2019 12:40 PM
chanaum hello do you know what the place of this spring on yj.I dont remember
04-15-2019 08:07 PM
Chrisnvegas
Quote:
Originally Posted by chanaum View Post
FOR CHRISNVEGAS
what your radiator in the front of the cooling radiator and what the key contact
In front of the radiator is a transmission cooler. The lock is for the hood.
04-15-2019 07:25 PM
Brad Perryman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Perryman View Post
I put this one on my 89YJ. It works great.
Sorry. 4.2 ltr

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04-15-2019 07:24 PM
Brad Perryman I put this one on my 89YJ. It works great.


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04-14-2019 11:17 AM
chanaum FOR CHRISNVEGAS
what your radiator in the front of the cooling radiator and what the key contact
04-14-2019 11:11 AM
chanaum Sorry for my poor English
i read all threads and buy an aluminium 3rows radiator .My yj is an original yj from 92 bit i swap a 4.0 with manual AX 15 .my water pump is new, i have install a volvo 2 speed electric fan with volvo bloc relay and BMW thermostat switch with 2 temperatures .I think the stock radiator is good for the 2,5 but not for 4.0 .
04-13-2019 07:33 AM
Chrisnvegas I'm 20 minutes from Death Valley.
When it comes to cooling, I always over do vs. getting by. Needs and circumstances change. Situations vary. Even if I lived in a cooler climate, I'd still do the same thing.

I have a 4.0 and a thick 3 core. Works just fine with the fan. In fact, when I changed the radiator, I also changed the water pump and the fan clutch. I found an original Mopar water pump and OEM (AC Delco) fan clutch. My Jeep probably wouldn't overheat on Venus.
As most already know, I'm no fan of electric fans (Get it, no fan of fans? Nevermind)
For a couple reasons. First, they're weak compared to the belt driven monster with heavily angled metal blades.
The stock fan is rated at over 4000 cfpm.
A performance electric is half that if you're lucky.
Second, there are a bunch of places an electric can fail. It's not simple like OEM. Many points of failure. Horsepower? You are losing 4 times the power just by using 10% ethanol (garbage) in your fuel. (about 10 horsepower on a 4.0)

Not many electric fans being used in heavy duty applications. You won't find an electric fan under the hood of an F350, Silverado 3500 or a Cat 966 loader. Not a Bobcat or a Freightliner.

The cap is important. It keeps the pressure where it needs to be. High pressure helps prevent localized hot spots, cavitation and boiling points. It actually forces the coolant against the inner passages.
I took the radiator replacement to do a whole cooling system overhaul including the serp belt, hoses, t-stat ect.
Good for another 25 years.
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.
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04-12-2019 06:03 PM
JeeperDon I went with an all aluminum 2 core from Summit Racing, couple hundred bucks. I need a Chevy conversion radiator, but the cooling aspect is the same. As said, unless you have a high heat maker motor, 2 is plenty. I'm in the NM heat too, zero issues on any day.
04-12-2019 03:59 PM
bpounds
Quote:
Originally Posted by HAZCAT View Post
Are the tanks on yours plastic or metal?
It is ALL brass and copper. The only plastic on the whole thing is the drain cock.
04-12-2019 02:54 PM
HAZCAT
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waternut View Post
This is good advice. My radiator is quite a bit thicker than my old one. My buddy installed a cheap aluminum radiator on his CJ and had to run a low profile electric fan....granted that was his original plan anyway since his old metal fan murdered his last radiator on the trail.
I think I am going with a cheaper aluminum one and do dual fans with a shroud on mine as I am doing a 4.0 swap and getting all the stuff for the swap. I already have an electric low profile fan too so no big deal doing the electric fan.
04-12-2019 02:32 PM
Waternut
Quote:
Originally Posted by HAZCAT View Post
Also keep in mind that a 3 row may be (in many cases) thicker and might cause a fitment issue with your fan. I'm getting ready to replace my radiator in my CJ and doing an aluminum 2 row for that reason.
This is good advice. My radiator is quite a bit thicker than my old one. My buddy installed a cheap aluminum radiator on his CJ and had to run a low profile electric fan....granted that was his original plan anyway since his old metal fan murdered his last radiator on the trail.
04-12-2019 02:24 PM
HAZCAT
Quote:
Originally Posted by bpounds View Post
The all brass/copper radiator I just installed is working out great.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/...scuss-4348525/
Are the tanks on yours plastic or metal?
04-12-2019 01:34 PM
bpounds The all brass/copper radiator I just installed is working out great.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/...scuss-4348525/
04-12-2019 12:06 PM
HAZCAT Also keep in mind that a 3 row may be (in many cases) thicker and might cause a fitment issue with your fan. I'm getting ready to replace my radiator in my CJ and doing an aluminum 2 row for that reason. I like the brass radiators but most have plastic tanks now and I just don't want that so going aluminum and the same measurements of my original
04-12-2019 11:49 AM
Waternut Don't get too wrapped in the 2 vs 3 core shennanigans. 3 cores that are 0.6" wide have less cooling capacity than 2 - 1" cores.

My aluminum radiator that I bought on Amazon for $135 (meant for V8's) has 2 cores and keeps my LS engine at 190-194 degrees all day long. Doesn't matter if I'm running, wheeling, idling in traffic, or running down the interstate at 75mph and 2800rpms.

I actually tried to run an electric fan but the radiator was almost too efficient so the fan would rarely run since it didn't need to for the engine. The rest of the engine bay was too hot to touch though and the power steering pump and electrics didn't like it when I went wheeling so I out the mechanical fan back on.


Food for thought...
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